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M55 FS Door Rope Gasket

Post in 'The Pellet Mill - Pellet and Multifuel Stoves' started by vinny11950, Oct 7, 2012.

  1. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    So I failed the dollar bill test and I am looking for new rope gasket.

    The owners manual refers to part number 50-2058 for Door and Ash Door. 9/16 Firm. Not sure what 9/16 firm means because I can't find any rope gasket of that thickness. Measuring the width of the gasket already on the door gives me 7/16, but I am not sure that is correct being it is compressed and still on the door. And I don't want to take it out without having the replacement.

    Only place that I found that has the part is the below link

    http://www.stove-parts-unlimited.com/Enviro_Pellet_Door_and_Ash_Door_Gasket_p/50-2058.htm

    It seems expensive when all other gaskets cost about $10. Plus it would be nice to have a local source, if I just knew the specs.

    May be I will bug Enviro.

    Any ideas would be appreciated.

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  2. MountainSean

    MountainSean Credo Quia Absurdum

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    Firm is just how dense the gasket weave is. It generally comes in three types. Firm, Medium and soft. Enviro parts are all expensive but unfortunately we don't have anything in that size available aftermarket and Enviro controls the costs we sell items at. However you should be able to get away with 1/2" rope gasket. You can stretch it out a little bit to get it down to the size you are looking for.
    Eatonpcat likes this.
  3. flynfrfun

    flynfrfun Minister of Fire

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    On my insert, the Rutland graphite 3/8" is the same size as the stuff already on the stove. Don't know why they call it 3/8" because it's more like 1/2". Around $12 locally. Haven't replaced my gasket yet so I can't comment for sure if it will work, but it looks identical.
  4. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    Sean, you work for Mountain View? If so, cool. The site is very impressive with its variety of products and information and pictures.

    Thanks for the information. I had a feeling it was Enviro creating their own parts to make some extra cash, which would explain the limited information.

    I think I will just bite the bullet and buy the original.

    Thanks for the reply, Sean.
  5. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    I will get both, Fly, the original and the 3/8 from Rutland, just to compare and have a stare. Let post pics and let you know how it goes.
  6. MountainSean

    MountainSean Credo Quia Absurdum

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    I'm the office manager. I joke about what my position is because I do everything from managing to fixing the computer network to being a janitor if we need it and everything in between. The joys of working for a small company, but I enjoy it very much.
    vinny11950 likes this.
  7. MCPO

    MCPO Minister of Fire

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    A great company to buy from. They supplied me with a new auger for my P-38 last January and I think it was Sean who I talked to. They are on my "favorites" list.
  8. flynfrfun

    flynfrfun Minister of Fire

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    Please do, I'm curious...
  9. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    "have a stare. Let post pics and let you know how it goes," not sure what I was doing when I wrote this, but wow.
  10. flynfrfun

    flynfrfun Minister of Fire

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    Yah, but I knew what you meant;)
  11. Eatonpcat

    Eatonpcat Minister of Fire

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    Bought my combustion fan blower gaskets from you (Nice service), Don't forget you still owe me two...At 30 bones a piece, I wouldn't want to have them forgotten!

    On a side note, That's a nice Thank you/Coupon + 2 Hershey's kisses that were included!

    No offense, but I threw the silver tops out!
  12. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    so it has been about 6 weeks since i changed the rope gasket on the door. i used the gasket recommended by Enviro. It feels tighter but the dollar bill still manages to slip away when the door is closed. i also get different levels of tightness on different sides, the top being the loosest.

    Here are some pictures:

    On the left/bottom is the Enviro gasket, and on the upper/right is a Rutland graphite measuring 5/8 thick. Rutland is a little thicker and softer with thicker braids. in a pinch it might do. When installing at first it looks like the gasket will not fit, but the door channel takes a lot of it in.

    Picture 083.jpg

    Picture 075.jpg

    Picture 079.jpg

    Finger size comparison view.

    Picture 085.jpg


    Here is a picture of the door lock. I am wondering if I can tighten it to get a tighter close, but the manual says nothing about it. Anybody try?

    Picture 071.jpg


    Here is the door with the new gasket after 6 weeks of use. It has compressed a little.

    Picture 073.jpg


    And some cleaning pics:
    Picture 091.jpg


    Can't get the burn pot out like the manual says. I have tried but never really had to so I have left it alone rather than break it. The igniter is supposed to retract to allow the burn pot to come out but mine does not. Anybody else have this issue?
    Picture 097.jpg


    Here is a picture of the exchange tubes after a very light vacuuming and dusting with a brush. This part is the worst of the cleaning as the dust really kicks up. I end up blowing my nose later on and finding traces of dusk. Even when I wear a mask. I wish there was a cleaning setting that allowed the exhaust motor to work so it would suck out the dust.
    Picture 092.jpg
  13. nailed_nailer

    nailed_nailer Minister of Fire

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    Cape Cod, Ma
    The burn pot lifts out.
    As far as I know the igniter tube does not retract.

    1. Cool stove
    2. Lift latch lever on burn pot
    3. Pull top half of pot out
    4. Remove Stirring rod. Rotate it top away from you about 1/3 of a turn and slide to left.
    5. Remove lower 1/2 burn pot. Raise the latch lever so that the handle points straight up.
    Lift the front slightly and pull toward you. Then lift pot straight up.
    6. While open remove rear fire wall by lifting heat exchanger baffle and allowing plate to (gently) fall forward.
    7. lift out lower section of fire wall. The one that covers over the igniter and air tubes.
    8. Now vac everything you can get to.
    9. I vac the heat exchanger tubes and use the supplied brush as well. (Dirty part of job)
    10. Scrape/chip burn pot liner of any clinker buildup.
    11. Empty ashpan
    12. Grease left side of stirrer rod
    13. Replace everything in reverse order.
    14. Clean glass

    Then you are back in business and ready to go until next cleaning
    ---Nailer---
  14. Wachusett

    Wachusett Feeling the Heat

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    Wachusett Reservoir, MA.
    Yes the burn bot does lift out. You may have to squeeze the top edges together as you lift up (the steel will flex a little).

    Cleaning tip: When you open the stove and start cleaning, especially the heat tubes, remove the pot stirrer (get it out of they way) then hit the start button on then off after a couple seconds. If the stove is warm it will run through the shut down cycle. If its cold just hit start and leave it on, you will get a blink code for lack of vaccum pressure. Both of these will cause the exhaust fan to run and pull out that light ash that gets away and up your nose. The heavey ash will still fall into the ash pan. Also makes for less mess outside the stove. :cool:
  15. Wachusett

    Wachusett Feeling the Heat

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    One more for ya Vinny,

    Behind the burn pot. The two circle doors that slide/twist open for vaccuming. That piece of steel they are mounted on is also removable. It can be a PIA to get out. I usually only go this far in a cleaning on the last one. With this off you see and clean the exhaust port and damper almost to the exhaust fan.
    whlago likes this.
  16. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    Thank you, Nailed Nailer and Wachusett, but that piece above is solidly in place on my stove. It feels like it is welded in place. And I have taken apart the burn pot many times but I just can't clear the air tubes and igniter. It is annoying more than necessary as I haven't had to do it, but I keep reading about every one else doing it! I think I got an early model before they made the obvious design adjustments.

    How about the door latch system, is it adjustable? when you guys do a dollar bill test on your M55s, does it slip out after much pull?
  17. Wachusett

    Wachusett Feeling the Heat

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    Vinny, I will have to check the door latch later. I have done the dollar bill test, it was pretty snug all around.
    The burn pot definately comes out, I have had my stove going on 3 years now.
    Check out this video.
  18. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    thanks for the video, but i just can't clear igniter. will give it another try at the next cleaning.
  19. chamas

    chamas Member

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    Another way to test the door gasket is to run the combustion fan but not the convection fan. Run a lit incense stick around the periphery of the door and watch if the smoke from the incense gets pulled thru the gasket into the firebox. Easier in a dark room with a flashlight.
    vinny11950 likes this.
  20. whlago

    whlago Feeling the Heat

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    I have the cast FS and that plate does come out....you need to alternate sides in pulling it up and gently pound it a little bit to loosen things. It definitely allows a more thorough cleaning...I remove it every couple of cleanings.

    Regarding the heat exchange tubes, does your model come with a built in scraper? You can use this even with the door closed so the dust doesn't go everywhere. Maybe it's only on the Cast? Be aware though that when you remove the top baffle plate for cleaning it will have a pretty good layer of ash built up. I generally just turn it so it falls into the ash pan before removing.
  21. Millsk

    Millsk Member

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    Cleaning the heat exchanger tubes is DIRTY. When I clean my stove I use a mico cleaning kit, often sold in the automotive section of your local hardware store. (Benny's for us New Englanders)
    Careful though, most of these are just a bit too big to reach inbetween the tubes. With some modifications (sanding down the plastic) it can be done. I vacuum the tubes once a month, and if needed stick a rag up there with a poking stick to really clean them.
  22. Eatonpcat

    Eatonpcat Minister of Fire

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    Good tip...I might have to try the rag trick!
  23. libirm

    libirm Member

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    Nailed- what grease do you use, Does any one "oil" the chain as well that drives the rod?
  24. vinny11950

    vinny11950 Minister of Fire

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    I use the anti-seize grease found at the auto parts store. one small tube has lasted me 3 years and there is plenty left.

    I haven't had to grease the chain yet, just dust it as the oil on it catches a lot of dust. When I do do it, I think I will try the dry lube stuff so it won't pickup the dust.
  25. nailed_nailer

    nailed_nailer Minister of Fire

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    My M55C came with a small tube of Loctite C5-A
    So that is what I use to grease my stirrer.
    Large can available from any autoparts store.

    I haven't lubed the chain (yet).

    ---Nailer---

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