M55 high temp reset problem...again

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bostonfan49

Minister of Fire
Nov 10, 2011
531
Essex Jct. Vermont
So a few days ago, I was able to push the red reset button ( high temp) What I didn't mention is how incredibly difficult it is to push the reset button. I have thin fingers, yet only my little pinky will fit in the hole and it is very very hard to push down on the reset button and have it click. It went off again tonight and I cannot reset it. I have tried many times now, and it will not reset...light still blinks. I have the stove unplugged for a bit to see if it will reset, but I tried earlier and that did not work!!! If I can get the reset done than I thought I would switch to some hard wood pellets. Any suggested way to help with the reset? Any suggested settings when I try the hardwood pellets? thanks, Bill
 
Sometimes it takes a bit. You have to let them cool off some. If the area is still hot give it a bit. On my old quad I used a piece of wood dowel pin as it was also hard to get at. You could also use a piece of plastic, Try not to use metal though.
 
Did the flat head screw driver (sorry) and the handle of a round wooden spoon, not resetting...stumped???
 
Is it still hot to touch? If not, The switch could be ka put!

Does yours have the upgraded blower and adjustable auger cover?
 
You have to wait for the stove to cool off before pushing that reset, and after so many pops they frequently will no longer reset. That switch is telling you that there is something seriously wrong with your stove. High limits should never be reached if everything is working properly on the stove. You are not supposed to reset them without finding out and fixing the reason for the trip. On some stoves the controller will count the trips and lock you out of successfully reseting the high limit (can you say service call). I don't know if that is the case for your stove, just thought you should know.
 
Bill,
If you do get it reset, slide your adjustable auger cover down so it can't feed so many pellets. Sounds like you must have gotten a stove with the older convection blower. IMHO, I'd be 'anglin' for the updated blower, then you can leave the auger cover plate full open and let her rip enjoying the heat of the hotter pellets! That's what i do.
 
Stove is completely cooled! This is only the second time it has tripped!! Don't know if I have the new blower or auger cover. I have a very strong hunch that if I get the stores tech person, they won't have a clue about these items. I will go on record right now and say that ordering these two parts will be a hassle and they will say it's not under warranty. The company that sold me the stove said they would help with the OAK (which is now on the back burner) ststed "I will be the guinea pig" and they will be very interested in seeing how this works!!! But, I was told that it would void my warranty. When I showed them the owners manual, I got the usual reply......"In all the years we have been selling pellet stoves we have never......bla bla....Bill
 
Well, the blower won't be under warranty since there is technically nothing wrong with it. However, if your stove doesn't have the adjustable auger cover, then that should have been included and will fix the overheating problem. Although it will limit how many BTU your stove can put out. You need to check to see if you have it. Sounds like a pretty shady dealer you have there unfortunately. Saying installing an OAK would make you a guinnea pig is completely ignorant. Have they ever heard of the internet or do they think they are living in a little secure vacuum where their myopic view is the only thing that matters. Sorry for the rant, just sounds like lazy people...which irritates me. :mad:
 
flynfrfun said:
Well, the blower won't be under warranty since there is technically nothing wrong with it. However, if your stove doesn't have the adjustable auger cover, then that should have been included and will fix the overheating problem. Although it will limit how many BTU your stove can put out. You need to check to see if you have it. Sounds like a pretty shady dealer you have there unfortunately. :mad:
To me this is B.s if I purchase a stove that's rated at xxxxx btu's it had better beable to at do it,the auger cover seems more of a bandaid than the real fix,I would be fighting to get the higher vfm blower under warranty which sounds like the real fix.
 
The good news is that the stove fired up this AM on the T-stat even though the # 4 light was flashing last night long after the stove had cooled. So, per the service manual, the only other fault could also be that the "hopper is open or the hopper switch has failed". The hopper lid was open about a half a dozen times when I was trying to reset the Hight temp sensor BUT closed when I wasn't. Is the hopper sensor and the high temp sensor the same animal? I guess I will research the part number from the previous posts for the new blower and compare it to my parts manual. If I need to order it from Enviro or whomever,I will. I will stop by the dealer and run it by him and report back on what he says. In the mean time, I am going to fill the stove with some lower btu hardwoods. The Vermont SW have a btu of up to 9000. Thanks for the replies....it's 6 degrees out there now and I want this puppy to keep going!!!!!! Bill
 
Bill,
The hopper lid switch is actually a magnet located in the underside of the right side of the lid. When you slide it forward to the closed position, there is supposed to be a sensor somewhere by the control panel that it links up with. If the lid is not fully closed, I suppose it may not have been making contact. Make sure that area is clean of pellet dust just in case.
 
mnkywrnch said:
flynfrfun said:
Well, the blower won't be under warranty since there is technically nothing wrong with it. However, if your stove doesn't have the adjustable auger cover, then that should have been included and will fix the overheating problem. Although it will limit how many BTU your stove can put out. You need to check to see if you have it. Sounds like a pretty shady dealer you have there unfortunately. :mad:
To me this is B.s if I purchase a stove that's rated at xxxxx btu's it had better beable to at do it,the auger cover seems more of a bandaid than the real fix,I would be fighting to get the higher vfm blower under warranty which sounds like the real fix.

The reason for the adjustable auger cover was they could produce over 70K BTU's with certain pellets. So even with an upgraded blower and the old auger cover you could still get over fire. The new auger cover doesn't allow as much fuel in even in the max open position.

No more BS than a Harman stove that will run for days when told to shut off. It might shut down when it runs out of fuel. Maybe?
 
j-takeman said:
mnkywrnch said:
flynfrfun said:
Well, the blower won't be under warranty since there is technically nothing wrong with it. However, if your stove doesn't have the adjustable auger cover, then that should have been included and will fix the overheating problem. Although it will limit how many BTU your stove can put out. You need to check to see if you have it. Sounds like a pretty shady dealer you have there unfortunately. :mad:
To me this is B.s if I purchase a stove that's rated at xxxxx btu's it had better beable to at do it,the auger cover seems more of a bandaid than the real fix,I would be fighting to get the higher vfm blower under warranty which sounds like the real fix.

The reason for the adjustable auger cover was they could produce over 70K BTU's with certain pellets. So even with an upgraded blower and the old auger cover you could still get over fire. The new auger cover doesn't allow as much fuel in even in the max open position.

No more BS than a Harman stove that will run for days when told to shut off. It might shut down when it runs out of fuel. Maybe?


I see your BS and raise it one more BS and folks wonder why their customers get mad.
 
flynfrfun said:
Bill,
The hopper lid switch is actually a magnet located in the underside of the right side of the lid. When you slide it forward to the closed position, there is supposed to be a sensor somewhere by the control panel that it links up with. If the lid is not fully closed, I suppose it may not have been making contact. Make sure that area is clean of pellet dust just in case.

The hopper switch is wired in series with the high temperature switch so it results in the same error indication(yet another ambiguous fault indication).

When all else fails use the wiring diagram. I guess a couple of dropping resistors and LEDs is too much bother.
 
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