m55 insert pellet feed trim rate too fast on lowest setting?

[Benjie6x]

I am burning premium hardwood pellets. Set to premium pellets, manual setting 3 with combustion air on 3 and feed trim on 1. These pellets burn so slowly that even with the feed trim on lowest setting, they are still glowing ash when they are pushed into the ash pan. Same thing on manual setting 2 to a slightly lesser degree.
Is there a way to help the pellets burn up faster?
Is there a way too further decrease the feed trim rate?

 

[SmokeyTheBear]

I am burning premium hardwood pellets. Set to premium pellets, manual setting 3 with combustion air on 3 and feed trim on 1. These pellets burn so slowly that even with the feed trim on lowest setting, they are still glowing ash when they are pushed into the ash pan. Same thing on manual setting 2 to a slightly lesser degree.
Is there a way to help the pellets burn up faster?
Is there a way too further decrease the feed trim rate?

Try increasing your air if that doesn't help or you can't, clean the stove and tell us all about your vent system.

 

[cuznvin]

I am burning premium hardwood pellets. Set to premium pellets, manual setting 3 with combustion air on 3 and feed trim on 1. These pellets burn so slowly that even with the feed trim on lowest setting, they are still glowing ash when they are pushed into the ash pan. Same thing on manual setting 2 to a slightly lesser degree.
Is there a way to help the pellets burn up faster?
Is there a way too further decrease the feed trim rate?

Do you have an OAK? I am using combustion air setting of four, Feed trim 2. If you have one of the newer M55 with the auger cover you may be able to have less pellets go into the pot. Although, I dont think the issue is too many pellets..

 

[cuznvin]

I am also using Auto Hi/Lo with a wireless thermostat..

 

[flynfrfun]

Sounds like the OP needs to open the damper and feed it more air.

 

[Benjie6x]

I am burning premium hardwood pellets. Set to premium pellets, manual setting 3 with combustion air on 3 and feed trim on 1. These pellets burn so slowly that even with the feed trim on lowest setting, they are still glowing ash when they are pushed into the ash pan. Same thing on manual setting 2 to a slightly lesser degree.
Is there a way to help the pellets burn up faster?
Is there a way too further decrease the feed trim rate?

Try increasing your air if that doesn't help or you can't, clean the stove and tell us all about your vent system.

Increasing the air doesn't seem to make a difference. I do have a very nice flame.
I'v attached a picture of my vent. It has two bends in it then runs vertically approximately 20 feet.
I will clean it today to see if that makes a difference.

 

[Benjie6x]

I am burning premium hardwood pellets. Set to premium pellets, manual setting 3 with combustion air on 3 and feed trim on 1. These pellets burn so slowly that even with the feed trim on lowest setting, they are still glowing ash when they are pushed into the ash pan. Same thing on manual setting 2 to a slightly lesser degree.
Is there a way to help the pellets burn up faster?
Is there a way too further decrease the feed trim rate?

Do you have an OAK? I am using combustion air setting of four, Feed trim 2. If you have one of the newer M55 with the auger cover you may be able to have less pellets go into the pot. Although, I dont think the issue is too many pellets..

I do not have an OAK. Was told it wouldn't be necessary. Also to get outside it would have to run 6 feet up and 6 feet across. Just bought this unit 2 months ago, no auger cover.

 

[jtakeman]

Did the installer set the stove up with a magnihelic gauge?

 

[Benjie6x]

Yes, I did

 

[stoveguy13]

may wantt check the owners manual that fireplace doesnt look like it meets code for an install i would have them come back and check the whole thing!

 

[jtakeman]

Was it set on high fire and after at least 1 hour of running? It will be slightly lower if it wasn't up to full temp.

Every pellet brand may require some tinkering. The setting is ball park and can be increased as needed. They don't list a setting for low fire. But if you have the gauge you can check it and graually increase it to your liking. Playtime. ;-)

Post the pellet brand name if you would. I'd also try the regular pellet mode and let the agitator help you. Some premiums aren't always premiums!

 

[Benjie6x]

may wantt check the owners manual that fireplace doesnt look like it meets code for an install i would have them come back and check the whole thing!

How so?

 

[Benjie6x]

Was it set on high fire and after at least 1 hour of running? It will be slightly lower if it wasn't up to full temp.

Every pellet brand may require some tinkering. The setting is ball park and can be increased as needed. They don't list a setting for low fire. But if you have the gauge you can check it and graually increase it to your liking. Playtime. ;-)

Post the pellet brand name if you would. I'd also try the regular pellet mode and let the agitator help you. Some premiums aren't always premiums!

'Premium Bio Synergy Wood Pellet Fuel'
These are the best pellets I have used. Pellet quality, imo, isn't the issue.
On regular pellets mode the auger runs more frequently and pushes the pellets out prematurely.
I will play with the damper.

 

[Benjie6x]

Is it necessary to adjust the damper when changing from low to higher setting?

 

[cuznvin]

I am burning premium hardwood pellets. Set to premium pellets, manual setting 3 with combustion air on 3 and feed trim on 1. These pellets burn so slowly that even with the feed trim on lowest setting, they are still glowing ash when they are pushed into the ash pan. Same thing on manual setting 2 to a slightly lesser degree.
Is there a way to help the pellets burn up faster?
Is there a way too further decrease the feed trim rate?

Do you have an OAK? I am using combustion air setting of four, Feed trim 2. If you have one of the newer M55 with the auger cover you may be able to have less pellets go into the pot. Although, I dont think the issue is too many pellets..

I do not have an OAK. Was told it wouldn't be necessary. Also to get outside it would have to run 6 feet up and 6 feet across. Just bought this unit 2 months ago, no auger cover.

Not sure if you can just add it, but maybe they can send you the auger cover. I would do some searches on OAK here and then make the determination if you need it or not. I wouldnt have had mine installed without it.

 

[flynfrfun]

Increasing the air doesn't seem to make a difference. I do have a very nice flame.
I'v attached a picture of my vent. It has two bends in it then runs vertically approximately 20 feet.
I will clean it today to see if that makes a difference.

How are you increasing the air? If you are using the combustion air trim, it may not be enough. That is just what it's title describes...a trim which is a fine tuning device. You might need to slide open the damper for bigger changes. Before you do this mark the damper with a sharpie so you can put it back where it was if need be. Based on what you are saying, I'd start with opening it 1/2" and see how that affects things.

Also, is this a new problem, or did it do it from the beginning?

 

[flynfrfun]

Is it necessary to adjust the damper when changing from low to higher setting?

No.

 

[stoveguy13]

may wantt check the owners manual that fireplace doesnt look like it meets code for an install i would have them come back and check the whole thing!

How so?

When installing the insert into a masonry fireplace, DO NOT remove any bricks or masonry, with the
following exception: masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke
shelf and adjacent damper frame, if necessary, to accommodate a chimney liner. Do this only if their
removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney, and will not reduce protection for
combustible materials to less than that required by the national building code. When installing the
fireplace insert into a zero clearance fireplace, DO NOT cut or modify any factory firebox parts

 

[flynfrfun]

may wantt check the owners manual that fireplace doesnt look like it meets code for an install i would have them come back and check the whole thing!

How so?

I'd have to agree with stoveguy. Looking at your pic, it almost looks like you have your insert in a pre-fab fireplace. Hard to tell with studs exposed under brick? I believe with this setup, you need to build a "box" as per the installation manual. If your fireplace was totally masonry, then it's not necessary. Or if there is enough clearance on the sides and top and it's sitting on masonry, then maybe all you need to make it right would be concrete board on the back wall. Need more pics to see what you really have going on there...

 

[Benjie6x]

Increasing the air doesn't seem to make a difference. I do have a very nice flame.
I'v attached a picture of my vent. It has two bends in it then runs vertically approximately 20 feet.
I will clean it today to see if that makes a difference.

How are you increasing the air? If you are using the combustion air trim, it may not be enough. That is just what it's title describes...a trim which is a fine tuning device. You might need to slide open the damper for bigger changes. Before you do this mark the damper with a sharpie so you can put it back where it was if need be. Based on what you are saying, I'd start with opening it 1/2" and see how that affects things.

Also, is this a new problem, or did it do it from the beginning?

Just with these specific pellets. I like them because they burn slower than any others i'v tried.
Its not necessarily a problem, i am getting good heat, i just want to be sure i'm getting everything out of these pellets.
If you have your stove on a high setting, do ambers get kicked into the ash pan or are the pellets completely burned?

 

[cuznvin]

Increasing the air doesn't seem to make a difference. I do have a very nice flame.
I'v attached a picture of my vent. It has two bends in it then runs vertically approximately 20 feet.
I will clean it today to see if that makes a difference.

How are you increasing the air? If you are using the combustion air trim, it may not be enough. That is just what it's title describes...a trim which is a fine tuning device. You might need to slide open the damper for bigger changes. Before you do this mark the damper with a sharpie so you can put it back where it was if need be. Based on what you are saying, I'd start with opening it 1/2" and see how that affects things.

Also, is this a new problem, or did it do it from the beginning?

Just with these specific pellets. I like them because they burn slower than any others i'v tried.
Its not necessarily a problem, i am getting good heat, i just want to be sure i'm getting everything out of these pellets.
If you have your stove on a high setting, do ambers get kicked into the ash pan or are the pellets completely burned?

I think its normal for some glowing pellets to get kicked out depending on when the agitator starts. If pellets have recently dropped into the burnpot and then the agitator kicks in, some pellets will get pushed out.

 

[Benjie6x]

may wantt check the owners manual that fireplace doesnt look like it meets code for an install i would have them come back and check the whole thing!

How so?

When installing the insert into a masonry fireplace, DO NOT remove any bricks or masonry, with the
following exception: masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke
shelf and adjacent damper frame, if necessary, to accommodate a chimney liner. Do this only if their
removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney, and will not reduce protection for
combustible materials to less than that required by the national building code. When installing the
fireplace insert into a zero clearance fireplace, DO NOT cut or modify any factory firebox parts

I didnt remove any bricks, maybe the previous owner did.
The brick structure is solid and the clearance to combustables is adequate.

 

[stoveguy13]

may wantt check the owners manual that fireplace doesnt look like it meets code for an install i would have them come back and check the whole thing!

How so?

When installing the insert into a masonry fireplace, DO NOT remove any bricks or masonry, with the
following exception: masonry or steel, including the damper plate, may be removed from the smoke
shelf and adjacent damper frame, if necessary, to accommodate a chimney liner. Do this only if their
removal will not weaken the structure of the fireplace and chimney, and will not reduce protection for
combustible materials to less than that required by the national building code. When installing the
fireplace insert into a zero clearance fireplace, DO NOT cut or modify any factory firebox parts

I didnt remove any bricks, maybe the previous owner did.
The brick structure is solid and the clearance to combustables is adequate.

that back wall should be shielded at the very least

 

[Benjie6x]

I will add some concrete board to the back if it is necessary for WETT certification.
Thanks for the input.
My post topic is about the specific burning of pellets and feed trim rates.
I will play with the damper and possibly add an OAK.
My worry is that if I ever have to go up to setting 4 or 5 that the unburned pellets problem will be greater.
It was -20C a few nights ago.

 

[cuznvin]

I will add some concrete board to the back if it is necessary for WETT certification.
Thanks for the input.
My post topic is about the specific burning of pellets and feed trim rates.
I will play with the damper and possibly add an OAK.
My worry is that if I ever have to go up to setting 4 or 5 that the unburned pellets problem will be greater.
It was -20C a few nights ago.

You may also want to look into the pellet selection that you are using. Have you seen this chart?