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Majestic DVR33 Pilot Goes Off

Post in 'It's a Gas!' started by jayace, Aug 29, 2010.

  1. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    I have a Majestic DVR33 that was installed 7 years ago. I had turned the fireplace (gas & pilot light) off for the summer and I went to turn it back on yesterday. I can get the pilot on but as soon as I turn the knob to "on" the pilot goes out. I've tried multiple times, turning the gas off overnight and trying again, leaving the pilot going for 10min or so and then turning the knob, all with the same result. Any suggestions or ideas would be much appreciated.

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  2. vvvv

    vvvv New Member

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  3. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    Am I correct in understanding that the thermocouple keeps the pilot on and the thermopile gives the ok for the main burner to light? My measurement across the thermopile is about .6 volts when the pilot is on and about -1.5mv when the pilot is off. The thermopile leads are disconnected when I'm measuring. Based on other threads it looks like it's working ok, maybe it's my gas valve then?
  4. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    Check the Mv on the thermocouple (TC). You'll either need leads for your multimeter with alligator clips,
    or a buddy to help you. Disconnect the end of the TC from the valve & put one clip on the copper tubing &
    the other end on the aluminum "button" that seats the end in the valve.
    Light the pilot, hold the knob in to keep it lit & take your reading.
    If you don't get at LEAST 28 Mv, replace it.
  5. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    I should mention that I can ignite the pilot and release the button and it stays on, it doesn't go out until I turn the knob to "On" from "Pilot". Not sure if that was clear from my original post. Could that still potentially be a thermocouple problem? I will do the test mentioned as soon as I have a chance.
  6. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    I didn't catch that the pilot stayed on in the original post. Majestic Fire places (& some of the VC products)
    sometimes have a Spill switch wired into the valve system.
    The circuit includes the pilot. See if there is a wire coming out of the valve &
    running up to the top of the fire place.
    There will be a small thermo-disk with a wire that returns to the valve.
    Jump the thremo-disk & see if that solves the problem.
    If it does, replace the t-disk. If it doesn't, try replacing the wires to & from the t-disk.
    They probably have dried out, lost their sheathing & may be shorting out to each other or to the appliance.
  7. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    Don't see any additional wires coming out of the valve. Just have the ignitor, thermopile, thermostat, and then the thermocouple and pilot gas line.
  8. jbcat

    jbcat New Member

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    I know this sounds stupid but are you turning the valve the right way? I made that mistake once on a new install and statred testing everything until I realized my stupid mistake.
  9. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    Which valve do you have in the appliance?
    According to the on-line maual, this fire place
    can either have a Honeywell or NovaSit valve.
    We need to know which one you have in order to
    tell you how to determine if it's good or bad.
  10. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    Yes I'm turning the knob the right way, good thought though :)

    I'll check what type of valve it is and post when I get home tonight.

    Thanks again guys.
  11. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    Looks like it's a "Honeywell VS8420E 2038".
  12. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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  13. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    That's great, thanks Bob! I'll work those diagnostics and go from there. I'll post once I have more info to report.
  14. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    So a couple of things to report. Doing the Coil Resistance test I get a reading of 3.3 ohms and the manual says if it exceeds 3.6 to replace valve so looks ok. The second thing is the thermocouple test gives me a reading of 21.3 mv. The manual says it should be at least 18mv but Bob your saying it should be a minimum of 28mv so not sure if 21.3 is ok or not? All the other tests are ok based on the manual. As I mentioned before, the pilot will stay lit once I let go of the button so if the thermocouple wasn't performing properly, should the pilot be going out as soon as I let go of the button or is the 21.3mv sufficient to keep it lit but insufficient to stay lit once I turn the Pilotstat to On?
  15. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    So I replaced the thermocouple anyways just in case and still no luck.
  16. jtp10181

    jtp10181 Minister of Fire

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    If the pilot stays on when you let go of the button, that means the thermocouple is generating enough power to hold the magnet open.

    Since the pilot stays until you switch the valve to the ON position.... either something is being grounded out causing the effect voltage from the thermocouple to instantly drop to 0, or there is a mechanical problem with the valve. I see in the pictures of that valve there is normally a hi-limit switch wired in, and also a suspicious looking wire going from a terminal on the valve across the front over towards the pilot side of the valve.

    Is anyone more familiar with that valve? Does it possibly have a safety system wired up that would ground out the thermocouple and kill the pilot? I am thinking there might be a short or the limit switch is bad and stuck. Although in the diagram that would be a N/C limit switch which would not cause that anyway....
  17. stoveguy13

    stoveguy13 Minister of Fire

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    wiht out seeing it i would say the the magnet is sticking try tapping the valve with the something give it a good wack and see if it will comes on it will not solve the problem but may get it on for a few seconds the valve is most likely shot the ohms reading can trick you sometimes
  18. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    I'm always game for giving things the ol hammer trick.....no luck this time though.
  19. stoveguy13

    stoveguy13 Minister of Fire

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    is the flame going fully around the TC and TP if so i would say the valve should be replaced
  20. stoveguy2esw

    stoveguy2esw Minister of Fire

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    actually it sounds like not enough air is getting"around" the pilot light when the main burner lights up, or a weak pilot flame thats "lifting" when the main lights and causes a bit of an "updraft" on the pilot. can you remove the log set? if so will it stay lit with the logs removed? also check the tip of the t-coupler for buildup , if present clean with rubbing alcohol and a cotton ball. somtimes the tip can become insulated by buildup and not allow enough current buildup to hold the magnet
  21. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    I don't get to the stage to even turn on the main burner though. The pilot is going out when I turn the valve to ON.
  22. vvvv

    vvvv New Member

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    thermopile produces current so what if thpile was heated with propane torch to test? dunno if extra heat would result in extra wattage from thpile? me no gasman
  23. jayace

    jayace New Member

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    Tried the torch on the thermocouple and thermopile....no luck. Love the ideas guys, thanks again for all your help. Looking more and more like I'll need to call in a tech I think.
  24. stoveguy13

    stoveguy13 Minister of Fire

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    call the service and tell him to bring the valve with him so you dont have to pay for two tripps also have him bring another TC it has nothing to do with the TP
  25. DAKSY

    DAKSY Patriot Guard Rider Staff Member

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    That's been my experience with this symptom with Honeywell Valves. The VC B-vent & DV units had that damn HI-Temp spill switch wired into the thermopile circuit. The OP says there's nothing there, & no other wires coming off the valve. I'll admit to being stumped on this one. I'd take the valve into a hearth shop, tho, to preclude the service call. They might bang ya for a bench test charge, but it's GOTTA be cheaper than a service call...

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