Mantle replacement wood with bluestone

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Lakeside

Minister of Fire
Feb 6, 2009
605
Mike's World
I like your input to determine if i need any additional ancoring for my new bluestone mantle.My original setup for the wood was just the brick extensions and some liquid nails to glue it done to the brick.

Blue stone is 2" X 9" X 78 "

Would you recommend some additional method to tie this to the top ledge ?

What materials , methods you have used ?

All the Best
MC
 

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MC - what're the dims of the current wood(?) mantel?

Regardless, I'm probably gonna recommend you scribe the wallboard, carve/chisel it out, and recess the bluestone into the wall a little. You can even cut a little high, work some wee little angle brackets into the studs to hold the back edge of the stone down, and then cover that all back up w/ spackle, joint compound, etc...
 
I think that your idea would work just fine. You've got a good 3 1/2 base along the full length, and as long as the corbelled bricks have been mortared in soundly it should be plenty of support. Liquid nails - for masonry applications- would work great for what you need. I did an experiment a while back for a repair job I was doing and we used liquid nails to attach bluestone to a concrete block to see if it would be a better "fix" for the temporary patio repairs than mortar. Once cured we couldn't remove the bluestone from the block. Very tough stuff.
 
dvellone said:
I think that your idea would work just fine. You've got a good 3 1/2 base along the full length, and as long as the corbelled bricks have been mortared in soundly it should be plenty of support. Liquid nails - for masonry applications- would work great for what you need. I did an experiment a while back for a repair job I was doing and we used liquid nails to attach bluestone to a concrete block to see if it would be a better "fix" for the temporary patio repairs than mortar. Once cured we couldn't remove the bluestone from the block. Very tough stuff.

although, liquid nails = flammable like your old mantle
 
The wood mantle was 3 1/4" X 9" X 78 ". During its removal one of the top bricks of a corbelled become loose.
I am in the process of mortaring it in place. Thinking now would be a good time to evaluate any other anchoring methods.
Good tip on the liquid nails, I should be able to find something that can take the heat.

Thanks to All
 
summit said:
although, liquid nails = flammable like your old mantle


Both of Liquid Nails products; Landscape Block, Stone and Timber Adhesive, and Marble& Granite and Solid Surface Adhesive are non-flammable (the first mentioned is non flammable when cured I believe)


I'm not familiar with other Liquid Nails products but these two are non flammable. They should have technical data sheets online.
 
The LN Landscaping Block and Masonry Adhesive (LN-905) is latex-based, and shows a 140F max service temp on its Tech Data sheet. Not something I'd wanna use on a mantel over a stove.

The Marble & Granite and Solid Surface Adhesive (LN-933 / polyurethane-based) shows a 300F max service temp. Possibly better.

Either way - I wouldn't want to employ an adhesive material comprising organic solvents in an elevated temperature environment. You are asking for trouble - the materials can outgas, break down, and disbond.
 
Edthedawg said:
The LN Landscaping Block and Masonry Adhesive (LN-905) is latex-based, and shows a 140F max service temp on its Tech Data sheet. Not something I'd wanna use on a mantel over a stove.

The Marble & Granite and Solid Surface Adhesive (LN-933 / polyurethane-based) shows a 300F max service temp. Possibly better.

Either way - I wouldn't want to employ an adhesive material comprising organic solvents in an elevated temperature environment. You are asking for trouble - the materials can outgas, break down, and disbond.

As I said these adhesives are non flammable. Sure, the organic solvents would pose a flammability issue but only while the product was uncured.

Also take note that Maximum Service Temperature is not a measure of flammability, but rather the max temp the product can be used in engineering. Exposure to temperatures above max service temp will cause a rapid decrease in strength - it's not a flashpoint. A 300*F max service temp for a mantle stone is pretty good when you consider that types of glass fall in the 150 - 550 max service range. High temperature resistant epoxy fortified thinset has a max service temp of up to 230*f and is non-flammable.

If there's any reluctance to use Liquid Nails, the standard bonding method for masonry units is mortar mix. Type n medium compressive strength mix. Can't go wrong there.
 
I come from a metal working background and am leaning toured Topcon concrete screws. see link
I direction I going is to drill counter-bore clearance holes in the bluestone tread. I will bring it to work and use the machine shop.
Then set the mantle temporary on the ledge to transfer the holes. Break out the hammer drill and add the tap holes to the ledge.
Return the bluestone to the ledge for final installation.
I will still have the brick cobbles in place but will have an added level of security and ease in removal.

There a good chance I will be rebuilding my fireplace next with a bigger hearth pad and possibly veneer stone.

May-be a little over kill but what do you expect from a past Toolmaker

That whole liquid nail thing just did not give me the security and ease of removal I was looking for , thanks for the Heads Up !
 
Mike_C said:
I come from a metal working background and am leaning toured Topcon concrete screws. see link
I direction I going is to drill counter-bore clearance holes in the bluestone tread. I will bring it to work and use the machine shop.
Then set the mantle temporary on the ledge to transfer the holes. Break out the hammer drill and add the tap holes to the ledge.
Return the bluestone to the ledge for final installation.
I will still have the brick cobbles in place but will have an added level of security and ease in removal.

There a good chance I will be rebuilding my fireplace next with a bigger hearth pad and possibly veneer stone.

May-be a little over kill but what do you expect from a past Toolmaker

That whole liquid nail thing just did not give me the security and ease of removal I was looking for , thanks for the Heads Up !

Link doesn't work for me. I have a brownstone mantle and interested in your approach. Mine has been resting on the cobbles and ledge and hasn't moved at all. I'd rather do something than nothing. Here's a pic.

Thanks - Steve
 

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new link

. if the link does'not work try www.concretefasteners.com

In my case the cobble was damaged during remove of the glued wood mantle , I just do not feel 100 % with it even after my repair with undercuts included to increase the retention.

You have a very nice setup.
 
Brick and blue stone ? No brainier Mix 1 part Portland cement 3 parts sand , wet the brick and stone lay a bed of splugeeeee on the brick and tap it till its sitting level . let it dry for a few days with out the fire. John
 
wellbuilt home said:
Brick and blue stone ? No brainier Mix 1 part Portland cement 3 parts sand , wet the brick and stone lay a bed of splugeeeee on the brick and tap it till its sitting level . let it dry for a few days with out the fire. John

Amen to this - and even this is overkill. If that brick is solid, that bluestone is going nowhere...
 
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