I was reading the post on modifying a stove to control the secondary air.
Dampers always come up as a subject and I have also suggested them for issues of a stove that doesnt build heat.
You hear alot about Dampers are dangerous, so I got to thinking about that.
First of all we are talking High Efficiency stoves here that are over 76% efficient compared to the old stoves that were 30%.
That there is a huge reduction in your chance for creosote accumulation in the first place.
This is assuming a person is knowledgeable in the operation of these stoves , like knowing not to burn green wood and knowing how to monitor stove and flue temps for the proper operating ranges.
Take this one step further and the reason for using the Flue damper is to get the stove to build and maintain heat better. If you have too strong of a draw as you have a insulated flue that heats very easy and a flue that is rather tall like 23' or higher that lends itself to a strong draw, then a manual damper may help out.
I cant see why helping the stove maintain a higher stove top temp would be more dangerous as these stove thrive off of higher heat. If the damper is closed partially and the stove top temp increases this is an indication that the stove will be operating in a more efficient zone. More smoke is being burned before it goes up the chimney.
Now with the old smoke dragons the stove was already exhausting lots more thick smoke up the flue and add to that the use of a damper would have a cooling effect of the thick smoke and chances of creosote was greatly enhanced.
Maybe using a damper on a high efficiency stove is actually new school way of using an old school device.
Dampers always come up as a subject and I have also suggested them for issues of a stove that doesnt build heat.
You hear alot about Dampers are dangerous, so I got to thinking about that.
First of all we are talking High Efficiency stoves here that are over 76% efficient compared to the old stoves that were 30%.
That there is a huge reduction in your chance for creosote accumulation in the first place.
This is assuming a person is knowledgeable in the operation of these stoves , like knowing not to burn green wood and knowing how to monitor stove and flue temps for the proper operating ranges.
Take this one step further and the reason for using the Flue damper is to get the stove to build and maintain heat better. If you have too strong of a draw as you have a insulated flue that heats very easy and a flue that is rather tall like 23' or higher that lends itself to a strong draw, then a manual damper may help out.
I cant see why helping the stove maintain a higher stove top temp would be more dangerous as these stove thrive off of higher heat. If the damper is closed partially and the stove top temp increases this is an indication that the stove will be operating in a more efficient zone. More smoke is being burned before it goes up the chimney.
Now with the old smoke dragons the stove was already exhausting lots more thick smoke up the flue and add to that the use of a damper would have a cooling effect of the thick smoke and chances of creosote was greatly enhanced.
Maybe using a damper on a high efficiency stove is actually new school way of using an old school device.
