Post in 'The Wood Shed' started by k9brain, Feb 19, 2011.
Its already been said but I use the bar also
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I used to do that, but for some reason, the rounds ended up being all kinds of different lengths. Doesn't work well when filling the stove. Only takes a few extra seconds per log to measure, and I'm not in any race anyway.
I carry a 19.5 inch dowel in my wood cutting tool box (milk crate) and sometimes I use that and my hatchet to make a notch in the log.
However, there is a mark on the side cover of my Stihl that happens to be right at 19.5 inches from the tip of the bar (16 inch bar) so I use that as a guide. Much quicker. My stove is 22 inches wide so 19 1/2 inch splits work just right.
I don't think I'd ever go to the trouble and expense of spray painting my marks. For one thing, I don't want to be burning paint in my stove.
Mark your bar.
I just screw some all thread into my nuts and use that....here is the pic ....I am too cheap to buy baileys screw on stick so I made my own
[quote author="jhoff310" date="1298268166"]I just screw some all thread into my nuts and use that..../quote]
So tempted to reply... but... must... not ..... :zip: :zip: :zip:
I use the bar also and hit it with the blade. I just work my way op the log than come back cutting.
I have a rope with zip ties every 16 inches. I can make 7 marks at a time. Keeps my hands free for the saw.
I have also used the bar and I have guessed alot also.
I mounted a GPS on my saw !
That pic is the "Whip" I spoke about.
What material did you use for the whip?
I like the gps idea,.....as long as it wouldn't constantly be telling me to "turn right".
I used all thread, could use anything from a piece of pipe welded to a long nut or whatever tickles your fancy... I love mine I need to make a few more for my other saws
I carry a stick that is the correct length and mark with an axe or hatchet.
Tape measure and then use my scrench to scratch a mark. Good thread!
My avatar has the jig I use.
easy on & off.
can mount it to a small saw & mark then grab good saw & cut.
After limbing, I put it on & get very close to the same length on all rounds.
here is the post & a video of it in action.
I use a cant hook on a home made handle. The handle is 5'4", with handsaw kerfs every 16 inches. It fits the tractor bucket, and gives me 4 16" rounds when I cut at the splitter. On a long log, I lay the handle along the log, and mark with my chainsaw the whole length, moving the handle every few marks. The hook helps it prop up along the log either on top or the ground. And it is a handy tool to have on hand anyway.
I made one of these, and it seems to work good for me.
That looks slick. PVC and chalk-line chalk?
ETA: I'm a burning chunk! Unlike the disastrous top-down fire I just started, that's more like a smoldering mass right now.
I use a 15 inch hammer handle, and a V-shaped wood chisel to gouge
a mark, which doesn't wash off if I have to walk away from a log half way
through. I used to think it was stupidly anal to measure. But then I couldnt'
get a full two cords into my wood shed because it wasn't even enough . . .
Eyeball it. My stove takes a 24 inch log so I try to cut it around 20" I'm never off by more than 2 to 3" so it all fits.
Way too much thought and effort going into this in my opinion.
Just use a pair of these. Couple cuts to get used to it and you'll be within a half inch of the desired length every time.
Use a Sharpie to mark the EW and NS lengths on the saw.
Very quick in practice.
Better to be a little short than be wrestling with a too long log and a hot stove at 11pm.
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