Maul head sticks in wood

Post in 'The Gear' started by wahoowad, Dec 2, 2007.

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  1. wahoowad

    wahoowad
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    I was splitting some 18" hickory today and darn near every strike of the maul made the head stick in the wood. I had to try and work the head out by yanking the handle, but of course it was stuck so solidly it only caused the log to move around. I had to strike/kick the handle sharply to loosen it, log after log, which ended up loosening the handle-to-head bond (fiberglass handle). While this is nothing knew, today was probably the worst day for it with it happening seemingly every strike. Got real old.

    Is there a technique that minimizes this effect of sticking in the wood? I'm using this TrueTempter maul.
     

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  2. cmonSTART

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    If that image is of what you're using, it looks more like an axe, which will get stuck easily in certain woods. A maul looks like what you would get if an axe fell in love with a sledgehammer. Someone correct me if I'm wrong here.
     
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  3. babalu87

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    Get an 8lb maul
    They work best with a dull edge
     
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  4. kjklosek

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    I use a sledge with my maul.

    When the maul sticks I use the sledge to finish it off and drive it through as you would if you were using a sledge and wedges.

    My maul looks like a splitting wedge on a stick.





    J.P.
     

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  5. myzamboni

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    +1. Wahoowad, what you are using is a hybrid of an axe and a wedge. Trust us, a proper 8lb maul does not get stuck in the wood.
     
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  6. Backwoods Savage

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    If it gets stuck, that is when you use wedges to spread enough to retrieve the splitting maul. Then when you get it out, continue to use maul and splitting wedges. This will save much frustration.
     
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  7. DriftWood

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    Nothing a few wedges and a hammer wont fix.
     
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  8. RedRanger

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    Get a decent splitting maul, and of course----for you a decent wedge. Driving in the wedge will get you out of lots of trouble.Even if it is just a "heaven forbid" a plastic wedge. Also, don`t sharpen the splitting maul, they are mean`t to be a blunt tool, not a finesse-tool/save the lilttle axe for kindling. There you go, now you can write your next "axe murder mystery novel"--lol
     
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  9. Lignums

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    On that kind of stuff I strike the wood where I want it to split, knowing it will either bounce, or get stuck. I then have my son hold the wedge until it gets started, and then go to town with a 10# sledge hammer. I have not had a chance to split any Hickory with that exact splitting implement, or hydraulic. Either way you go with it, take it easy on your back. You will either be bent over a few hours rolling pieces around, or hefting 8# Maul over your head. Both will drag on your back muscles.
     
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  10. jpl1nh

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    Instead of striking the bull's eye in the center of the round try striking nearer the edge at about 6 o'clock. If your strike gets stuck, when you get the maul out, put a wedge in the cut and bust the round open with a wedge and sledge. Once it's busted, the rest should split much easier with just the maul. It does look like your spliting maul is abit too axe like. I use a "super splitter" which is a "winged" type maul. http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=147592-302-1156000&lpage=none It's only 4 lbs but blows stuff apart. Its not sharp but it isn't real dull either. I've split about 6-7 cords of black locust, sugar maple, red and white oak, some elm. Love it!
     
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  11. wahoowad

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    jpl1nh,

    My splitter is the same as yours. It sticks a lot whether I strike center or on the edge. I go for the edge most of the time.
     
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  12. babalu87

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    Another tip (thanks Eric) is to carefully look the wood over and try to find its Achilles heel. There is usually a crack somewhere , attack it there.
    I went to town today with the UGLY pile. These were all impossible to split so I ripped em' with the saw. Satisfying work :)
     
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  13. sgcsalsero

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    Try using a wood grenade to break up rounds a little, then grab a maul, I use a 6lb from Sears and Santa is going to drop a 8lb off in a couple weeks.

    Best to have a few tools, also try flipping the round wider side up
     
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  14. DiscoInferno

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    I also have that splitter, and it is indeed a pain in certain types of wood. The wing flare is too far back to be useful I think. Worked fine for me the last few weeks on oak, ash, locust, and poplar though. (4 of the easiest splitting woods, of course.) You can get a maul (convex head or straight triangle monster) stuck, but it's harder to do and easier to remove.
     
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  15. Gibbonboy

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    Wow, just posted in another thread about my experiences with that exact maul. Long story short, I returned one due to a broken blade, and the replacement is losing the head. Can't see how they can give a "Lifetime Warranty" on this junk. Bought myself a real 8 pound wood-handle maul and life is grand. Mine like that got stuck all the time, forcing me to what we call "the Pump".
     
  16. WarmGuy

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    Oil. Occasionally put a little WD-40 or some vegetable oil on the tip (i.e. oil, chop, chop, chop, chop, stick, oil, etc).

    I find that this makes the wood split easier. I've only tried it, and don't do it regularly since my chopper doesn't usually stick, but it works.
     
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  17. Lignums

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    I was surfing the channels and came across the Stihl Outdoors Competition. When they were chopping any of the logs, they always lubricated the ax. I know splitting is different than chopping but, maybe the sticking is universal. The lubricant did not look like WD - 40, but something allot thicker, line sewing machine oil, or something to that nature. Those competition axes look sweet, I'd like to get one and try it out, for s***s and giggles.
     
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