Maul vs Splitting Axe...

[BrotherBart]

I have owned more mauls and axes than a lot of members have owned shoes. And after the first time I used that X27 I wanted to be twenty years younger back when I hand split everything. The freakin thing is magic. That first time I took a 36" red oak butt round apart in a few heartbeats. For a scrawny 160 pound old man that was like magic.

Yeah, only the second time me and Redd have agreed.

 

[bad news]

People should buy whatever suits them and their work best. I find some value in being able to replace the handle on a tool. If you don't, no worries. I've fixed many cars with my grandfather's ball peen, and I'm hanging my father in law's axe on a new handle for him now. Others wouldn't have patience or interest in that kind of work.

 

[jatoxico]

Gotta agree w/ the others on this one. I have an old American made maul that I lovingly re-hafted with a hickory handle then oiled up with a couple coats of boiled linseed oil. I'm very attached to it but used in the traditional way as a splitting tool, the Fiskars simply out performs it. In addition it can do things that a maul was never designed for.

 

[turn_n_burn]

I noticed all of the Autine's had handles made of elm. I knew that crap was good for something other than firewood once dry.

 

[AmbDrvr253]

I have never used a maul, but I LOVE my Fiskars X27!

 

[VAfarmer38]

I'm still swinging away with my heavy maul but plan to pick up the X27, possibly this weekend. If/when I do I'll share my opinion. Thanks for the advice.

 

[Omaha419]

I'm still swinging away with my heavy maul but plan to pick up the X27, possibly this weekend. If/when I do I'll share my opinion. Thanks for the advice.

Look forward to it. I'm using a generic axe bought from Lowes and am wondering if the X27 will be that much better.

 

[jotul8e2]

I split and burn oak (white mostly but some red), plus the odd bit of hickory. Sizes range up to 30" in diameter or more. Here in the Ozarks oak will not grow three feet without one of more knots.

Everything I split falls into one of two groups: (1) what I can split with my 6.6 lb. Stihl maul; and (2) what I rip with the chainsaw. The maul takes care of 90% of everything. For the rest, well, I guess I am too old and impatient to fiddle with wedges and a sledge anymore.

 

[Monaco]

Recent covert to the Fiskars x27... And wow. I'm loving it. Just the right amount of weight and long slightly flexible handle makes splitting fun again. I split all oak and maple. I have another too-heavy 12-pounder that I don't use anymore.

 

[Little Digger]

I have some of the various splitting tools and while some are more capable than others, it seems the species of wood your splitting also makes a difference. I have the Fiskars X27 and X7. It works fairly well for what it is. Just don't hit it with anything metal or have it hit the ground/gravel/rocks or it will be damaged. I have the Ames red fiberglass wavy handled splitting axe, actually my second one, since I broke the first one. Must have been defective even though I had used it for several years. I broke it splitting some Residential Ash. The flair/wings could be less severe since it tends to only penetrate the wood so far especially if the wood is knotted or twisty gnarly. But I like it since it only weighs in at 4.5#. Then I have the Council 6# maul. It's not bad, but does need the head shape modified some. Sometimes I'll use it to drive a wedge, and sometimes it is the wedge. I also have a Collins Michigan single bit axe which I use for those stubborn pieces that need another inch or two taken off so they can fit in my stove. It cuts well. I also use it for cutting out tree stumps.

I tend to start with the lightest weight splitting axe and work my way up to the heavier maul, even the wedge and sledge. If the Fiskars fails after a half dozen attempts, I'll move on to the Ames. If the Ames fails, then I'll move on to the Council maul. If that fails, then comes the wedge and sledge. If all of those fail, then I'll drag out one of the chainsaws and noodle/rip that piece. That's usually after I've accumulated more than a few partial rounds I wasn't able to split by hand.

As for which one is the best? It depends on the wood I'm splitting. They all have characteristics for the job they do.

One thing I will never do is spend more than $40 on a splitting tool. It's a hunk of metal on a wood or fiberglass handle. Different designs perhaps, but then I was never into Designer Jeans over plain ole Wranglers or Levis. I usually spend less than $30 on any splitting tool, but I had to try the Fiskars due to the reviews, so I raised my limit to $40 since it was on sale on Amazon for $39.

 

[Vikestand]

Hey guys, ever heard of a Fiskars X27?

 

[mass_burner]

I find mauls overkill, the x27 does most splitting, and the wedges and 10lb hammer are more reliable for tougher jobs.

 

[mass_burner]

I have some of the various splitting tools and while some are more capable than others, it seems the species of wood your splitting also makes a difference. I have the Fiskars X27 and X7. It works fairly well for what it is. Just don't hit it with anything metal or have it hit the ground/gravel/rocks or it will be damaged. I have the Ames red fiberglass wavy handled splitting axe, actually my second one, since I broke the first one. Must have been defective even though I had used it for several years. I broke it splitting some Residential Ash. The flair/wings could be less severe since it tends to only penetrate the wood so far especially if the wood is knotted or twisty gnarly. But I like it since it only weighs in at 4.5#. Then I have the Council 6# maul. It's not bad, but does need the head shape modified some. Sometimes I'll use it to drive a wedge, and sometimes it is the wedge. I also have a Collins Michigan single bit axe which I use for those stubborn pieces that need another inch or two taken off so they can fit in my stove. It cuts well. I also use it for cutting out tree stumps.

I tend to start with the lightest weight splitting axe and work my way up to the heavier maul, even the wedge and sledge. If the Fiskars fails after a half dozen attempts, I'll move on to the Ames. If the Ames fails, then I'll move on to the Council maul. If that fails, then comes the wedge and sledge. If all of those fail, then I'll drag out one of the chainsaws and noodle/rip that piece. That's usually after I've accumulated more than a few partial rounds I wasn't able to split by hand.

As for which one is the best? It depends on the wood I'm splitting. They all have characteristics for the job they do.

One thing I will never do is spend more than $40 on a splitting tool. It's a hunk of metal on a wood or fiberglass handle. Different designs perhaps, but then I was never into Designer Jeans over plain ole Wranglers or Levis. I usually spend less than $30 on any splitting tool, but I had to try the Fiskars due to the reviews, so I raised my limit to $40 since it was on sale on Amazon for $39.

I can't even bring myself to buy $35 Levi's. I get them from the goodwill for $7.