Measuring as you cut, another rookie quesiton

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WoodNStuff said:
larry3228 said:
I use 2 methods fror cutting to length.

Somewhere on the net I saw a marking tool made of 1/2" PVC pipe filled with powdered chalk. It's a T with all caps on all 3 ends. Make a cut at the length you want in the top of the T so that some chalk can come out when you tap the log. I start at one end of the log and mark all the cuts, just move the uncut end of the tool to the last chalk mark and tap. It takes only a few seconds to mark a 40' trunk. I can cut round after round without stopping to measure. I like it because there is nothing on the bar to get in the way and it is CHEAP.

For smaller logs and branches that I can lift I pile them in a bucking frame until the frame is full. The frame is a series of 5 2x4 Hs spaced 16" apart so I get the lenght I want and 18" wide so my 20" bar can cut through all the logs at once and about 30" above the middle of the H so I can get a lot branches in. I use the Hs as a guide and can cut through the pile 4 times without stoping to measure. I saw something similar in a thread here.

I'd attach some pictures but it is late and these tools are out in the barn.

Larry.

Larry, would love to see pictures when you have the chance.


Sorry to take so long to post my pictures. It gets dark so early I can't get out after work to do anything.

I cut my rounds at 16" which is what is recommended for my Quad 2700i, the max is 18". Before I bought my insert, I was cutting wood for my fireplace at random lengths between 20" and 24". I had most of a cord CSS when I bought my 2700i so I needed a way to quickly trim it to size. I saw a metal version of the bucking frame somewhere, but the wood version is much more chain friendly. I loaded the left section to the top and cut 30 or 40 splits in just a few minutes. Now I load it with whatever I can lift into it, up to about 6" in diameter and 6 feet long. I load the end even with the 2x4 on the left. Anything too long gets trimmed at the right and piled on top. It makes quick work of smaller logs and branches.

The Tap and Cut is just a T fitting with 3 capped arms. The handle piece is long enough so I can mark a log on the ground without bending over. It is a great time saver and cost only a few bucks to make.

Larry
 

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ColdNH said:
i eyeball it using the chainsaw bar as refernce, sure im never spot on, but i figure if i can get between 14-18" in lengths its good enough (im not too anal) (hence i dont spend the time to mark the wood first)

This +1
 
velvetfoot said:
It stacks nicely when cut evenly. 3 rows of 16" pieces exactly fits on a 48" wide pallet.
Ja, but two rows of 20" also fit a 48" long by 40" wide pallet.
 
Sharpie mark on the saw to guage the length.

Measure the cut point by turning the saw paralell to the log, turn the saw back perpendicular while keepoing your eye on the cut point and pull the trigger.

With reps this becomes a fluid motion that is fast and accurate.

Occasionally I get a "long". Even those will burn on the diagonal.
 
I dont even use the bar, I just eyeball and Im usually within an inch, as long as I dont go over 18 inches Im good with my stove.
 
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