Milling on Sunday

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thewoodlands

Minister of Fire
Aug 25, 2009
16,649
In The Woods
Had a nice size pine mother nature took down a few years back that I started today, the three sections that I'm milling were off the ground so they are still good. Still have to finish up these then drop whats still standing then mill that, all these will be floor joist for the planned cabin build.


Attached are some pictures.



zap
 

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Looking good.....
 
Seriously. I need to join this club. Milling looks fun.
 
smokinjay said:
Looking good.....

I'll finish those up next weekend plus make a trail in so I can get the rhino back in. I think this tree will give us about 20 floor joist, we will need a total of 36 since going to seven footers instead of 14 foters.


zap
 
What is the mill that you are using? Thanks
 
I will speak for Zap, the Alaskan Saw Mill, hooks up to your chain saw. You need a pretty big saw Zap and I have Stihl 660s, Jay has an 880. The mill is pretty inexpensive, the saw is not.
 
Thanks for the reply. I am a relative newcomer to cutting wood. Only have a couple of years under my belt. Can you go into more detail about the more expensive stihls and why you would use them with the mill versus, say, the 039 that I am using. I have read a little about the alaskan mill (a little). Thanks for your time.
 
Boom Stick said:
Thanks for the reply. I am a relative newcomer to cutting wood. Only have a couple of years under my belt. Can you go into more detail about the more expensive stihls and why you would use them with the mill versus, say, the 039 that I am using. I have read a little about the alaskan mill (a little). Thanks for your time.

Limited use the 039 on a small mill would be ok with timber under 15 inchs. If your running a higher voulume and or bigger logs you need a saw that can take the stress and the long runs.
 
Boom Stick said:
Thanks for the reply. I am a relative newcomer to cutting wood. Only have a couple of years under my belt. Can you go into more detail about the more expensive stihls and why you would use them with the mill versus, say, the 039 that I am using. I have read a little about the alaskan mill (a little). Thanks for your time.


The biggest bar they recommend for the 660 is the 36 inch bar, so this is the mill I purchased, I'm thinking GoldandWoodNut has the same.

http://granberg.com/product/alaskan-mk-iii-mill-36



zap
 
Always get a kick out of these pics. Gonna be a nice cabin.
 
Boom Stick said:
Thanks for the reply. I am a relative newcomer to cutting wood. Only have a couple of years under my belt. Can you go into more detail about the more expensive stihls and why you would use them with the mill versus, say, the 039 that I am using. I have read a little about the alaskan mill (a little). Thanks for your time.

Its a blast. Owned & used my Granberg 36" mill since Nov '93. Until a few months ago,it was powered by Poulan Pro 475 (4.7cubic inch/77cc/6HP/12,500 RPM,Jonsered 2077 clone) since April '94. Saw I replaced it with is 1988-89 Husky 288XPW.A bit more HP,capable of pulling 48"bar & chain,MUCH easier to start thanks to decompression button. :coolgrin:
 
I guess there are reasons, but I wonder why some keep at it with chainsaw milling and all the expensive attendant requirements, when good, inexpensive bandsaw mills are available, that make do with a small Honda and take a much smaller kerf.
Not trying to start a poo-storm, just curious. Pls eddicate me.
 
Small bandsaw mills start at $4000 minimum. When I got the alaskan mill in 1994 they were in their infancy & were much more than that then.For not much over $2000 (cheaper if you get a good used huge Husky or Stihl) you can be set up & ready to go.

Plus when you get all your logs for free (sometimes getting paid to take them even) the savings add up. Its no big deal to carry 75lbs of saw & mill into some tight urban backyard,mill the logs & carry the planks out.Most trailer mounted bandsaw mills dont manuever into tight city yards that well.At first I had a McCulloch ProMac 610 w/24" bar,bit underpowered for long hours of use & larger logs.But I had it & the mill that I paid $140 including shipping paid for itself with the very first log I milled - a massive 30" Red Elm that died a year or so earlier.I'd been watching it in my neighbor's timber for a few years prior,it finally sucuumed to Dutch Elm Disease.
 
I'm planning on getting an Alaskan for the super250, when I get sick of slowly chugging through the wood, I'll look into a different saw. I am planning on getting the 36" one, even though the 30 would be plenty big for like 90% of the jobs I will probably run across. It's just don't wanna pass up a nice tree because my setup can't handle it.
 
Danno77 said:
I'm planning on getting an Alaskan for the super250, when I get sick of slowly chugging through the wood, I'll look into a different saw. I am planning on getting the 36" one, even though the 30 would be plenty big for like 90% of the jobs I will probably run across. It's just don't wanna pass up a nice tree because my setup can't handle it.


It's slow going but boy you can get some nice size boards, the longest run I'm setup for is 14 feet. I use the rails from Granberg, one nine foot section & one five section.

The first stuff we milled was pine & hemlock, 1.25 inches thick which will be used for the flooring on the cabin.


zap
 
Danno77 said:
Seriously. I need to join this club. Milling looks fun.
I agree. this will be the next hobby i get into. lol i have had my eye on that 660 for a couple years. due time it come. also seems pretty easy sometimes to get ahold of some nice huge oak rounds around here.
 
zap for the floor boards will you square the ends off with a table saw?
 
ecocavalier02 said:
zap for the floor boards will you square the ends off with a table saw?

Eco, these will be for the floor joist, yes we will cut them down to about 7 feet. These are cut to 90 inches. Plus I have to rip them down to 9.5 inches for our 2 x 10's.


The flooring we will use all the pine & hemlock (1.25 inches thick) that we milled first.


zap
 
thats pretty sweet. when will you be starting to install. cant wait for the pics of that.
 
ecocavalier02 said:
thats pretty sweet. when will you be starting to install. cant wait for the pics of that.

Everything starts this coming spring, still alot of milling to do.



zap
 
CTYank said:
I guess there are reasons, but I wonder why some keep at it with chainsaw milling and all the expensive attendant requirements, when good, inexpensive bandsaw mills are available, that make do with a small Honda and take a much smaller kerf.
Not trying to start a poo-storm, just curious. Pls eddicate me.

Its about what you want and need. Pull that band mill on zap property for example and make it level....Then I guess you could always buy a skid stir. Its the protiabilty and flexibility of the chain mill. No other equipment needed. Size of logs whats important to me 30 inch is not uncommon. (can do up to 60 inch)Now, how much you think it would cost for a band mill that could handle just a couple of those issue? (around 2k with a few give and takes you can do all of this)
 
I bought my 660 used for $900 with 2 bars 25 and 36 and the mill was around $400. I got by cheap and use a ladder instead of rails. Now don't get me wrong, I would like to have a band saw, I would like to have alot of things. By the way, I can use the 660 to cut down big trees, I can't do that with a bandsaw.
 
GolfandWoodNut said:
I bought my 660 used for $900 with 2 bars 25 and 36 and the mill was around $400. I got by cheap and use a ladder instead of rails. Now don't get me wrong, I would like to have a band saw, I would like to have alot of things. By the way, I can use the 660 to cut down big trees, I can't do that with a bandsaw.

+1 Precisely. Mill cost me $140 18 yrs ago,Poulan 475 was $745 new (which I'm selling for $350 minus the 36" bar & chain right now on Ebay) Husky 288XP with a few new upgrades cost me $650 & change 4 months ago.Bandsaw mill isnt what you'd call portable either. I use 2 x 12 x 7ft Doug Fir thats flat & true,with 1/4 x 1 1/4 angle iron every foot on both edges for stiffener as the guide plank.Have used a ladder a couple times too,both work great.
 
Does milling require a special bar and chain? (other than a long bar)? Smaller gage ? And Zap, how long did it take to cut that one board?

Looks nice and I bet the floor will be beautiful!
 
basswidow said:
Does milling require a special bar and chain? (other than a long bar)? Smaller gage ?

Cutter needs to be at 10 degrees to make a smoother surface. Other than that nothing. Raker management is a little different but not much.
 
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