Milling Questions

[golfandwoodnut]

I think I am going to pull the trigger on the Alaskan Mill III, 36 inch. Do any of you guys (jay,etc.) use this model? My biggest questions seems to be the first cut, do you make your own jig using 2X4s or did you buy the rails (seem expensive for something pretty simple). Also does anyone use the Mini-Mill for cutting the ssides? Or do you roll the log and use the Alaskan Mill? Finally I see the 850 Slabbing Rail option that you can use with 2X4s, does anyone use these? I was thinking you could just use some adjustable metal strapping that you buy at the box stores.

 

[smokinj]

I will slide down a 2x10x2 most of the time. Mini good on small logs. You can use a ladder as well. If your slabbing things at 2inch+ these methods work great. And yes I have the 36 incher with a 41inch hard nose.

 

[Thistle]

I've owned & used an 36" Alaskan mill since August.'93. Bought it from long-since closed mail-order woodworking MA retailer,$140 including UPS to my house.I've always used a straight,flat & true 2 x 12 Douglas Fir 7 ft (was 9ft when I got it from jobsite dumpster,trimmed off 2 ft later on.) as the guide plank for your first cut.For stability & added stiffness I have 1/4" x 2" x 2" structural angle iron full length attached to each edge of the bottom side with countersunk #10 x 1" square head screws.Even though its stored indoors when not being used,every year or so I still apply a coat of waterproofer to both sides,has kept it from warping & twisting all these years...

I've heard of others using a straight section of 8' or 10' aluminum extension ladder for the guide rail,supposed to work easily & effieciently. The Granberg EZ Rail System looks great,I havent found the need to spend approximatly $200+ for it when what I use works just fine.

Someday soon instead I'm gonna buy that Granberg 44" double-ended Bar with Helper Handle & Roller Bearing,plus the Auxilliary Oiler Kit.Cannon Bars of Langley,B.C. Canada is supposed to make the world's best bars,they have the same thing but they are quite expensive.

 

[smokinj]

I've owned & used an 36" Alaskan mill since August.'93. Bought it from long-since closed mail-order woodworking MA retailer,$140 including UPS to my house.I've always used a straight,flat & true 2 x 12 Douglas Fir 7 ft (was 9ft when I got it from jobsite dumpster,trimmed off 2 ft later on.) as the guide plank for your first cut.For stability & added stiffness I have 1/4" x 2" x 2" structural angle iron full length attached to each edge of the bottom side with countersunk #10 x 1" square head screws.Even though its stored indoors when not being used,every year or so I still apply a coat of waterproofer to both sides,has kept it from warping & twisting all these years...

I've heard of others using a straight section of 8' or 10' aluminum extension ladder for the guide rail,supposed to work easily & effieciently. The Granberg EZ Rail System looks great,I havent found the need to spend approximatly $200+ for it when what I use works just fine.

Someday soon instead I'm gonna buy that Granberg 44" double-ended Bar with Helper Handle & Roller Bearing,plus the Auxilliary Oiler Kit.Cannon Bars of Langley,B.C. Canada is supposed to make the world's best bars,they have the same thing but they are quite expensive.

Aux-oiler is a must. You can see and hear your saw struggle turn a little juice on and Rock On!

 

[KarlP]

Depending on the size and accessability of the log, I'll make my first cut using either the minimill on a 2x10 or I use some pipe hanger strap and screw one section of an aluminum extension ladder to the log.

For the sides, I'll either roll it 90 degrees and square the log up with the minimill or I'll just leave a natural bark edge and square it up on the bandsaw when I need to use the wood.

 

[Thistle]

I've quarter sawn a couple big ones soon after I got the mill,mostly I just saw through & through,trim 1 edge later with wormdrive Skilsaw & aluminum straight edge.To have 1 true edge to go against table saw fence later on.Sometimes I leave both natural edges on,depending on what the finished product will be.Nice to have choices,if defects are on edge,they get trimmed off normally.

 

[smokinj]

Depending on the size and accessability of the log, I'll make my first cut using either the minimill on a 2x10 or I use some pipe hanger strap and screw one section of an aluminum extension ladder to the log.

For the sides, I'll either roll it 90 degrees and square the log up with the minimill or I'll just leave a natural bark edge and square it up on the bandsaw when I need to use the wood.

You Suck......Wish I had a bigger bandsaw. Mine is like a 1hp. You got it! Get the Aux-oiler your going to be under powerd no matter what saw you use. Its like haveing a litte NOS bottle.


Dont drill the bar...Just let it drip on there. It clogs to easy when you drill it out anyway!

 

[Thistle]

ooooh Nitrous lol..... :coolgrin:

 

[smokinj]

ooooh Nitrous lol..... :coolgrin:

YEP! That 660 oil pump not going to be enough, niether is an 880! Small logs it is, but even then on a long run its SWEET!

 

[golfandwoodnut]

wow, talk about some fast responses. So the aux oil you just let gravity feed to bar? I guess you could just manually rig something up or pay the $50 for one. After you guys cut the wood do you just stack it on level ground for a few years with spacers in between? How soon is the wood useable? Do you plane it, use a belt sander? Thanks for all the help.

 

[smokinj]

wow, talk about some fast responses. So the aux oil you just let gravity feed to bar? I guess you could just manually rig something up or pay the $50 for one. After you guys cut the wood do you just stack it on level ground for a few years with spacers in between? How soon is the wood useable? Do you plane it, use a belt sander? Thanks for all the help.

Depends on thickness....I slab! 2 inch+ and will stand them on end in a rake just like firewood. Yes you can easily rig somthing up but dont run without it!

 

[KarlP]

For the sides, I'll either roll it 90 degrees and square the log up with the minimill or I'll just leave a natural bark edge and square it up on the bandsaw when I need to use the wood.

You Suck......Wish I had a bigger bandsaw. Mine is like a 1hp. You got it! Get the Aux-oiler your going to be under powerd no matter what saw you use. Its like haveing a litte NOS bottle.

I have a Grizzly G0513. I wish I had a bigger one when it comes to resawing, but the rest of the time its great.

2HP is more than enough for taking the edges off the stuff already milled to 5/4 - 4" thick. I'd think 1HP would be fine. I just snap a chalk line and freehand it through the bandsaw. A few passes through the G0500 (jointer) covers up my lack of precision with the bandsaw.

Dont drill the bar...Just let it drip on there. It clogs to easy when you drill it out anyway!

I often need help to move many of the planks after I cut them, so I just have a helper drizzle chain oil from a 1qt bottle on the tip of the bar for me.

 

[smokinj]

For the sides, I'll either roll it 90 degrees and square the log up with the minimill or I'll just leave a natural bark edge and square it up on the bandsaw when I need to use the wood.

You Suck......Wish I had a bigger bandsaw. Mine is like a 1hp. You got it! Get the Aux-oiler your going to be under powerd no matter what saw you use. Its like haveing a litte NOS bottle.

I have a Grizzly G0513. I wish I had a bigger one when it comes to resawing, but the rest of the time its great.

2HP is more than enough for taking the edges off the stuff already milled to 5/4 - 4" thick. I'd think 1HP would be fine. I just snap a chalk line and freehand it through the bandsaw. A few passes through the G0500 (jointer) covers up my lack of precision with the bandsaw.

Dont drill the bar...Just let it drip on there. It clogs to easy when you drill it out anyway!

I often need help to move many of the planks after I cut them, so I just have a helper drizzle chain oil from a 1qt bottle on the tip of the bar for me.

That works and I do the same. with the aux-oiler both are going to get you there. Running by myself its really hard to keep it adjusted right. Helps to idle anyways though and let the saw cool.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

Northern Tool has theirs on sale at $200.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

Northern Tool has theirs on sale at $200.

Yep Dennis, that is where I just ordered it from (199 to be exact). Interested to see how it will work out, the saw mills will not give you anything for the lumber these days (I found that out the hard way). Now I can at least make my own lumber. If you look at what it would cost to buy just one hardwood beam, etc. it should pay for itself the first time I use it.

 

[smokinj]

Northern Tool has theirs on sale at $200.

Yep Dennis, that is where I just ordered it from (199 to be exact). Interested to see how it will work out, the saw mills will not give you anything for the lumber these days (I found that out the hard way). Now I can at least make my own lumber. If you look at what it would cost to buy just one hardwood beam, etc. it should pay for itself the first time I use it.

With having a 660 its already paid for....Hope you have a grinding wheel?

 

[golfandwoodnut]

[quote author="smokinjay" date="1301708791
With having a 660 its already paid for....Hope you have a grinding wheel?[/quote]

Thats right, you need the horsepower, lucky to have it. I do have a HF Sharpener and have gotten pretty good at hand sharpening. I know I will have to sharpen often, would you say once per board? More or less. Also was wondering when you are cutting smaller stuff if it is better to use a smaller bar or do you get better performance out of a larger bar? I have heard mixed signals on getting ripping chains. Some of you have said it is just as well to use normal Stihl Full Chisel chains.

 

[smokinj]

[quote author="smokinjay" date="1301708791
With having a 660 its already paid for....Hope you have a grinding wheel?

Thats right, you need the horsepower, lucky to have it. I do have a HF Sharpener and have gotten pretty good at hand sharpening. I know I will have to sharpen often, would you say once per board? More or less. Also was wondering when you are cutting smaller stuff if it is better to use a smaller bar or do you get better performance out of a larger bar? I have heard mixed signals on getting ripping chains. Some of you have said it is just as well to use normal Stihl Full Chisel chains.[/quote]

I will run a full chisel chain and cut it down to 10 degrees over time (30 degrees is a pretty rough board). Sharpening you will know when its time...It will slow down and you start running hotter. Smaller bar dont know I could only afford one for an 880. Cool grind for your grinding will another good thing to have. (just a dressing for the wheel) Now progressive rakers are pretty important as well in milling. Your going to that the rakers down more than you did the last time, this will help with chain speed and roughness.

 

[Thistle]

30 degrees is not only rough,it takes more power & longer to cut than standard 10 or 15 degrees normally used for ripping chain.Once in a while I'll stand a short (2 ft or so) block on end & cut down it with regular chain.Depending on the species,the chips are not as fine as ripping chain,bit coarser.Still finer than the large chips when crosscutting though.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I ordered a rip chain yesterday, so I will definetly give that a try. I decided one of my projects is to build a bridge or two in the woods to cross some creeks. I am thinking of using Sassafrass for that since the wood is pretty rot resistant and I have alot of it. Perhaps put some big rocks under the beams or I will dig some holes for some posts. I should be able to make it sturdy enough to easily hold the Quad, not sure if I will make them sturdy enough for a car or the Bobcat.

The Cherry and Oak I am going to save for other projects.