Morso 3450 installation

[Jared_L]

I've been working through a fun project of fitting a Morso 3450 into my cabin... I call it fun because it's been quite challenging as it has required an "old work" installation of chimney (now complete), installation of surrounding non-flamable materials (cement board, brick tiles and steel siding), and now stove/stove pipe installation. I have high expectations of the stove's performance for heating the 900 sq ft "well insulated" place... Here are three things I'm trying to figure out:

1. Soapstone installation. Hoping someone on this board is familiar with the technical installation of Morso 3450. The upper soapstone is secured to lower soapstone by use of dowels and stove top (see attached pic IMG_3888 and IMG3890 (pic through stove door to toward left bolt hole, light through hole between stovetop and inside steel work). But there is a bolt that needs screwed into a bushing from the inside of the stove--and without a substantial amount of disassembly of the stove, I don't see an easy way to fit hands or nutdriver into stove cavity. If anybody is familiar with this stove, I'd appreciate any sharing of solution... The instructions included withe stove are not detailed enough to answer my question. I've haven't found a solution anywhere online either.
2. Fitment of Duravent 6DVL to the Morso 3450 flue. Attached (IMG_3889) is the picture of the stovepipe connector on 3450. I purchased a Duravent 6dvl-ad for the purpose, but it doesn't fit. I can likely make something fit, but definitely don't look to do this... especially if there is a part that I'm overlooking designed for this application. Both Duravent and Morso brands are common so I'm surprised there is nothing to interface the two. My experience in this is limited though. Any ideas?

 

[begreen]

Is the top lid removable on this stove? If so, would that help access?

In many cases, an adapter is not necessary. How does the DVL pipe fit onto the stove's flue collar without the adapter?

The exterior chimney looks too short. Does it meet the 10-3-2 rule? From the manual:
We recommend the length of the chimney system should be at least 16 feet (not required) above the stove in normal domestic situations, measured from the flue collar to the top of the chimney.

 

[Jared_L]

Is the top lid removable on this stove? If so, would that help access?

In many cases, an adapter is not necessary. How does the DVL pipe fit onto the stove's flue collar without the adapter?

The exterior chimney looks too short. Does it meet the 10-3-2 rule? From the manual:
We recommend the length of the chimney system should be at least 16 feet (not required) above the stove in normal domestic situations, measured from the flue collar to the top of the chimney.

Thanks for the reply.

I received a reply from Morso customer service suggesting I "try" to remove the baffle. I actually had tried to remove the two philips screws securing the baffle (hidden beneath tape measure in attached picture), but stopped short as I wanted to be sure I was considering all options first. When I revisit, I'll apply heat and will work to get the exact driver size to fit the screws. I'm not a fan of having to do this and think it's a week design.

I don't recall attempting to fit the pipe directly. I will try this next time I'm at the location. The 6DVL-AD I purchased has a crimped female portion that looked correct by design, but the fit is very loose ( I realize "very loose" is vague--I'd estimate 1/4" difference on the diameter which is too much. Also, doubt this joint is easy to caulk so want it right. I am hoping something similar to 6DVL-AT was available that was snug. Thanks for the suggestion--I'll check mating the stovepipe direct.

It's likely very close to 10-3-2 (not 16 though... more like 12). I have another two feet I can add, but chose to keep the profile down for now just to see how it works. If I need to add them, I may also need to add something to secure the additional length. On principal, I'm no fan of the cost of that chimney pipe... CA code (tax), I'm expecting. And I grew up in NoCal (an eternity ago) and don't recall triple walled chimney! But I'm open to folks' criticism. I'd like this stove, and my install, to be safe and efficient.

Appreciate your ideas! Especially since I'm stumped!

 

[begreen]

I don't recall attempting to fit the pipe directly. I will try this next time I'm at the location. The 6DVL-AD I purchased has a crimped female portion that looked correct by design, but the fit is very loose ( I realize "very loose" is vague--I'd estimate 1/4" difference on the diameter which is too much. Also, doubt this joint is easy to caulk so want it right. I am hoping something similar to 6DVL-AT was available that was snug. Thanks for the suggestion--I'll check mating the stovepipe direct.

This sounds like the same case as our stove. The DVL adapter is sloppy and loose but the DVL pipe itself fits the stove collar snugly.

It's likely very close to 10-3-2 (not 16 though... more like 12). I have another two feet I can add, but chose to keep the profile down for now just to see how it works. If I need to add them, I may also need to add something to secure the additional length.

I was guestimating more like 10 ft of flue at present and the two 90º turns will slow down the draft making it act more like a 6' pipe. Adding 2 ft will not need a brace. It may not be enough, but worth a try. If secondary combustion is poor and smoke spills a lot when the door is open then more chimney will be needed. A brace on the chimney pipe is required at 5' above where it clears the roof edge.

Is this DuraPlus chimney? That is DuraVent's value line of chimney pipe.

 

[Jared_L]

This sounds like the same case as our stove. The DVL adapter is sloppy and loose but the DVL pipe itself fits the stove collar snugly.


I was guestimating more like 10 ft of flue at present and the two 90º turns will slow down the draft making it act more like a 6' pipe. Adding 2 ft will not need a brace. It may not be enough, but worth a try. If secondary combustion is poor and smoke spills a lot when the door is open then more chimney will be needed. A brace on the chimney pipe is required at 5' above where it clears the roof edge.

Is this DuraPlus chimney? That is DuraVent's value line of chimney pipe.

Good to hear your experience with the DVL pipe. Not intuitive, but I will certainly test its fit.

Thanks for the technical explanation on draft. I actually considered this early on... but truthfully, the "old work" to re-frame the wall and modify duravent's 'through the wall' kit took most of my cycles. Nice knowing that not much gets in the way of adding to the chimney vertically--only air and dollars.

Yes, it's duraplus. Not sure I agree with calling it "value" but it's what I'm using and if I have to purchase another section, I'll do so. Really hoping to have this stove in operation by January.

 

[begreen]

Yes, value these days is a relative term with the increase in piping costs. It is their value line with DuraTech being their premium chimney pipe.

 

[Jared_L]

Thanks, Begreen. You helped me fit the stovepipe... It is working well with dvl attaching direct to stove (your suggestion). Also, I added additional 2ft and think I need more. It didn't start easy... And while this was the case, I added kindling/starter fuel (i.e newspaper) and had to deal with smoke billowing into cabin. Once going, it heats well. I may keep "playing with it" to see if I can get a routine down that fits, but my hunch is that I don't have enough draft. No big deal--the hard work's done. And thanks again--really appreciated.