I recently installed a zero clearance wood burning fireplace with the help of my neighbor, who has done his own install and a couple of other friends/family. Everything went smooth, but as I started looking again at the installation manual, we installed it about 2 inches too far back, so I need to push it forward two inches. The only thing I am concerned with is the chimney, there are two 15 degree elbows,( I have the super pro class "A" chimney pipe, the top has locking threads but the bottom of it does not it can rotate freely). I was thinking of loosening the claps on both and slowly pushing it forward, but I am worried about the fire stop and flashing at the roof getting damaged. I have plenty of slack for the electrical and fresh air hose and there are no other concerns except the ones I listed. Any advice would be gladly accepted.
Moving my Fireplace 2 inches forward
- Thread starter NDG1971
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What unit is it and why does it need to be moved forward?
Moving it forward 2" will throw everything off pretty bad. Unless there is a lot of distance between the anchor plate and firestop, it will be hard to get that much deflection in the pipe.
Moving it forward 2" will throw everything off pretty bad. Unless there is a lot of distance between the anchor plate and firestop, it will be hard to get that much deflection in the pipe.
It is a Flame Monaco, I would like to move it because the way it is now the cement board will be flush with the front of the fireplace, I am afraid without the gap, that when I put the stone veneer on the edge of the cement/moisture paper/wire will be exposed. I am obviously not familiar with installing veneer, if there is a way around seeing the edge, that would work even better.
Typically the unit will set a half inch out of the framing. Then the cement board comes up flush to the unit, so what you have is normal.
I'm not sure how much black face shows on that unit, but usually the mesh would cover a little bit of the black face. It can be screwed to the metal in a few places as needed. Cover enough of the face so it has a similar reveal on all sides for aesthetics. So basically the stone will come out onto the face a little bit and mortar will fill the gap between the face and the stone.
I'm not sure how much black face shows on that unit, but usually the mesh would cover a little bit of the black face. It can be screwed to the metal in a few places as needed. Cover enough of the face so it has a similar reveal on all sides for aesthetics. So basically the stone will come out onto the face a little bit and mortar will fill the gap between the face and the stone.
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