Mt. Vernon AE Auger issues.

  • Active since 1995, Hearth.com is THE place on the internet for free information and advice about wood stoves, pellet stoves and other energy saving equipment.

    We strive to provide opinions, articles, discussions and history related to Hearth Products and in a more general sense, energy issues.

    We promote the EFFICIENT, RESPONSIBLE, CLEAN and SAFE use of all fuels, whether renewable or fossil.
Status
Not open for further replies.

Kev1

Member
Dec 26, 2014
4
New York
Hello everyone, brand new to the site. I have a Mt.Vernon AE insert, new 11/2011. So far has been great but I now have a auger jammed error message. I pulled the auger and vacuumed the drop tube, inspected the auger to motor shaft set screw, visually inspected the hall effect position sensor on the auger motor, tested the vac switch, snap disc, and both hopper and door magnetic switches all are ok. Its looking like the motor is done but it would be nice to verify that it is getting voltage from the controller. Any thoughts? Thanks folks.

Kev1
 
Would be nice to know what control board you have. Take left panel off and there is a white label on control board with a number SRV7000- . One issue that can happen is if the optical sensor gets dusty and can't see the wheel with the holes turning. There is no way to test the auger motor on the AE, unlike the other Quad stoves. Sometimes it is very hard to get the auger motor off the auger assy. You may have to order a whole auger assy. kap
 
Would be nice to know what control board you have. Take left panel off and there is a white label on control board with a number SRV7000- . One issue that can happen is if the optical sensor gets dusty and can't see the wheel with the holes turning. There is no way to test the auger motor on the AE, unlike the other Quad stoves. Sometimes it is very hard to get the auger motor off the auger assy. You may have to order a whole auger assy. kap
Thanks for the response. Looks like the control board is 7000-456. To me it looks like the rotation sensor is a hall effect not an optical sensor, either way it is clean.
 
They call it an optical sensor. Strange that an auger motor would go so fast, but stranger things have happened. Reason I asked about the control board # is they had issues with some earlier ones. Does your number say 456 C? This is the revision that addressed the logic problem with the vac switch and auger jam. How did you test the vac switch? And did you make sure the vac hose was clear? And the nipple that it attaches to on the drop chute? kap
 
They call it an optical sensor. Strange that an auger motor would go so fast, but stranger things have happened. Reason I asked about the control board # is they had issues with some earlier ones. Does your number say 456 C? This is the revision that addressed the logic problem with the vac switch and auger jam. How did you test the vac switch? And did you make sure the vac hose was clear? And the nipple that it attaches to on the drop chute? kap
It is Revision C. I tested the vac switch by removing it from the stove with the vac hose attached. I then connected my DVOM to the terminals, sucked on the end of the hose and watched the resistance reading. I repeated that several times and the switch always worked. I also ran a small wire through the drop tube nipple to make sure it was clear. Is there no way to test the motor drive signal coming from the controller or jumper a DC voltage source to see if the motor works? Thanks so much for your help. kev1
 
No. If you have a tester to see if power is in a wire, you can see if power is going to motor/sensor. Just remember timing on when auger would be on. Only other option is to test auger assy in another stove. kap
 
No. If you have a tester to see if power is in a wire, you can see if power is going to motor/sensor. Just remember timing on when auger would be on. Only other option is to test auger assy in another stove. kap
So it ended up being the auger drive motor. After doing some research on the Johnson Electric / Saia motors web site, I found enginering specs for the motor. I then removed the motor from the auger assembly and jumpered a 18 volt cordless drill battery to the motor leads, it gave a faint click but no turning so at that point I bit the $129.00 bullet and replaced the motor. All is well. Man I missed my stove!! Thanks for the help. Kev1
 
Glad you figured it out. How was it to remove the motor? Easy or hard? Stay warm. kap
 
So it ended up being the auger drive motor. After doing some research on the Johnson Electric / Saia motors web site, I found enginering specs for the motor. I then removed the motor from the auger assembly and jumpered a 18 volt cordless drill battery to the motor leads, it gave a faint click but no turning so at that point I bit the $129.00 bullet and replaced the motor. All is well. Man I missed my stove!! Thanks for the help. Kev1
Very nice diagnostic work, and a help to other MVAE owners (as were Kap's replies). Thanks to both of you.
 
Learn something new every day. Will have to remember that diagnostic trick with the motor. Pays to think outside the box, not just what your told. kap
 
I just replaced my auger motor this year,but the stove is an 07,so I guess I did pretty good.
 
I have 2 augers upper and lower yesterday the top one stopped working ..I cleaned out all the pellets and nothing .. I took the wires from the bottom motor and hooked them to to the top motor and it worked ... and of course the bottom one didn't ... any suggestions where to go from here ???
 
I have 2 augers upper and lower yesterday the top one stopped working ..I cleaned out all the pellets and nothing .. I took the wires from the bottom motor and hooked them to to the top motor and it worked ... and of course the bottom one didn't ... any suggestions where to go from here ???
 
Can you explain just a tad more on what the issue is? kap
 
Status
Not open for further replies.