mt vernon ae ignitor

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farmboy

New Member
Nov 5, 2011
55
eastern va
Ok my stove wont light , ive checked resistance on the ignitor and it reads 36 ,if it doesnt go to zero doesnt it mean ignitor is bad. Sorry for the typing im sending this from a nook.
 
No, if it goes to zero, there is no resistance and then the ignitor is bad. Can you see the ignitor get red when the stove is in start up mode? I believe you should have at least 15 ohms of resistance.So your ignitor should be good.
 
I just read my troubleshooting guide and it says you should have around 36 ohms resistance.
I will try to PM you a copy of the guide to help you out.
 
I havent checked fuse yet ,not sure i know how to access it. Stove keeps trying to start then goes into autoclean and dumps all the pellets in the ashpan. When i try to shut the stove down on the t-stat it wont acknowledge and stays in start up mode. Is this some other issue?
 
This insert is only one month old, unfortunately I probably wont be able to get the dealer here in a timely matter because of the holidays and the fact that he's about an hour drive from here.
 
Sounds like the ignitor is not getting juice, could be bad fuse or un -attatched wires etc. I am emailing you the manual it will explain all this and show how to do it.Could also be a bad thermocoupler.
 
farmboy said:
This insert is only one month old, unfortunately I probably wont be able to get the dealer here in a timely matter because of the holidays and the fact that he's about an hour drive from here.

Ouch, shoulda considered distance when purchasing. The warranty is only as good as the dealer honoring it.
 
can you see the ignitor light up when it is in start mode? Look in at it through the bottom of the door, you should see it get red.
 
farmboy said:
No cant see it getting red and cant feel anything getting warm.
Well, if you ohmed it out and it was ok and it is not getting red, then I would say it is either the fuse, or the ignitor wire is not attached properly to the motherboard. Did you get the manual I sent you? Also when this is all figured out, I would purchase at least one spare ignitor because eventually they do go bad and then you have one on hand.
 
tsmith said:
Sounds like the ignitor is not getting juice, could be bad fuse or un -attatched wires etc. I am emailing you the manual it will explain all this and show how to do it.Could also be a bad thermocoupler.
Can you try re-sending it?
 
farmboy said:
tsmith said:
Sounds like the ignitor is not getting juice, could be bad fuse or un -attatched wires etc. I am emailing you the manual it will explain all this and show how to do it.Could also be a bad thermocoupler.
Can you try re-sending it?
I am doing that now, do you have adobe reader to open it?
 
tsmith said:
farmboy said:
No cant see it getting red and cant feel anything getting warm.
Well, if you ohmed it out and it was ok and it is not getting red, then I would say it is either the fuse, or the ignitor wire is not attached properly to the motherboard. Did you get the manual I sent you? Also when this is all figured out, I would purchase at least one spare ignitor because eventually they do go bad and then you have one on hand.[/qu
ote
Good advice,where are the fuses located? I didn't see anything in the manual about how to access them,also I couldnt open the e-mail you sent.
 
farmboy said:
tsmith said:
farmboy said:
No cant see it getting red and cant feel anything getting warm.
Well, if you ohmed it out and it was ok and it is not getting red, then I would say it is either the fuse, or the ignitor wire is not attached properly to the motherboard. Did you get the manual I sent you? Also when this is all figured out, I would purchase at least one spare ignitor because eventually they do go bad and then you have one on hand.[/qu
ote
Good advice,where are the fuses located? I didn't see anything in the manual about how to access them,also I couldnt open the e-mail you sent.
fuses and wiring connectors are on the motherboard, behind the left side panel in the rear of the stove, hopefully the manual gets to you ok, it will explain everything
 
Fuse seems to be in a poor location. Can the fuse be replaced without unhooking all the plugs and wiring and removing circuit board?
 
I am not trying to insult your intelligence, but when you are checking the ignitor for OHMS, what are you touching the multi-meter leads to? I accidentally touched them to the ouitside of the ignitor itself and it gave a false good reading because they are conected at the end by that brass clamp. You need to either disconnect it at its coupler and touch each wire lead, or pull back some of the insulation right at the ignitor end and touch the leads there. You are still under warranty, but I know how long it can take dealers to come for service. I am not sure why my e-mail is not working, I am showing an attachment when I send it, will try again.
 
I disconnected the 2 spade terminals labeled ignitor, set the meter to ohms and touched each terminal going back to ignitor. I routinely check switches at work but wasnt sure what ignitor was supposed to read. Maybe try and send to my work e-mail as there may be an issue with aol and attachments . I will PM you ,thanks.
 
farmboy said:
I disconnected the 2 spade terminals labeled ignitor, set the meter to ohms and touched each terminal going back to ignitor. I routinely check switches at work but wasnt sure what ignitor was supposed to read. Maybe try and send to my work e-mail as there may be an issue with aol and attachments . I will PM you ,thanks.
I am resending it from another email address I have it is the same name as before but from hotmail.
 
Aha got it. Thanks a million, will keep you posted. Still haven't gotten in touch with dealer.
 
farmboy said:
Aha got it. Thanks a million, will keep you posted. Still haven't gotten in touch with dealer.
Good, glad you finally got it, it should help alot. If it is not the ignitor, fuses or cut wires, unfortunately it could be either the motherboard or the thermostat, I would make sure to get the dealer out to fix it under warranty.
 
Only way to get at the igniter fuse is to remove all wires from control board, remove control board and take cover off board. I would let a dealer do this and manually light the stove until they can get there. I have seen the solder connections on a couple of boards overload and then everything works and igniter is good but still won't light. Running on battery will keep it burning continuously until you choose to shut it down.
 
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