Multi Level Wood burning Chimney, Stove/Insert install pre existing home?

[grandquads]

Hello Folks,

I have some questions on how to go about installing a new construction chimney in a pre existing home?

1) The home is a three level (basement,main,upstairs w/attic) modular home. I would like to install a 2 flue chimney setup (one for main stove in basement and other for part time use on main floor). I would assume to limit space consumption that 2 triple wall flues could be used over a masonry set up? Or should I ask what would be the best setup for this or similar application? The chimney will be located near the center of the home.

2) The basement stove will be free standing and will be used for main heat, the main floor will be used on cool nights and special occasions. I do plan to build a Hearth and wall with mantel but I was wondering if there is a SAFE way to not build the fireplace/Insert? What I would like to do is to be able to attach the chimney to pre fab built insert or similar setup. I would like some way to build around this and make it look like a real fireplace insert setup but without all the weight and construction of a true masonry fireplace. I assume something like this exists?

3) The chimney exit through the roof. I have a metal roof and the chimney would exit almost at the highest point and if pre fab chimney is used I would want it to look like a masonry chimney at exit, I assume I don't have to run a cap or can adapt something other than the "basket" cap I see with pre fab chimneys providing I don't obstruct drafts. Also with two separate chimneys exiting at the same point I should be able to keep them at the same height, correct?

4) Spacing on prefab chimney to wall and issues going through insulation? My basment ceiling and main floor ceiling are std fiberglass (PINK) roll insulation with my upstairs being spray foam (open cell). the fiberglass doesnt concern me much but the foam insulation if you breath on it with a fever it will catch fire. What should be done in that area?

I am of course on a budget and as of right now trying to see if this could even be worth the hassle. I myself and a few contractor friends will be doing the work if we decide to go forward. I'm sure I could have someone come in and spec out whats needed as well and we probably will so we meet area codes.

Thanks For your time

 

[begreen]

Welcome. First step will be to plan well and carefully. Depending on the layout of the house you may or may not want the two chimneys in a single chase. Heating from the basement can sometimes work, but it is often less than successful and inefficient. For it to succeed an insulated basement is a good start. Uninsulated walls will suck up to a third of the heat out of the basement to outdoors and the earth. Second, the heat needs a way to get upstairs. A centrally located stove near a wide, open staircase can really help here. Also, the basement will be warmer in order for it to be comfortable upstairs. Sometimes this means 10-15º warmer. That can be too much for some people if the basement has a finished room where folks like to hang out. Insulation in the basement ceiling is not going to help this.

You are using the term "insert" but I think you mean a zero-clearance fireplace. They don't weigh much, especially compared to a masonry fireplace and they attach to metal chimney pipe for venting. Installed properly they are quite safe. Triple wall chimney pipe is used on some units and double-wall class A chimney is now used on many EPA zc fireplaces. The EPA units are designed to heat and run with the ceramic glass door closed while offering a great fireview and good heating. Some ZC units allow ducting the heat output. If the basement is insulated and not too large then the zc fireplace might be used to heat the basement from the 1st floor.

Can you post some floor plan sketches so that we can better see what you have? Pictures of the rooms and proposed locations also help.

 

[grandquads]

Hello Begreen and thank you for the welcome and the reply.
The basement stove will have an air duct for the main floor air handler (also in basement) to pull warm air from. Im ok with the basement being hotter than the main floor and yes we do have a game/living area kind of setup down there, and if it gets too bad we can open a door for time being. I would like to keep the basement ceiling insulation to deaden the noise from me and kids thinking we can play guitars and from a few friends playing pool when kids are trying to sleep. I will try to attach a rough sketch of floor plan for the house and hopefully later i can attach some actual pictures of the location.
Yes you're correct with zero clearance fireplace would be great on the main floor. I hope to find one similar to the inserts that would go in a std fireplace, one already built enclosed and catalyst that you and the inserts speak of. Closed doors are perfect.
I will also try to attach a picture of what im looking for for the main floor in hopes that somewhere I can find what is needed for my application.
My brother does waste oil heater installs on the east coast and gets a tremendous deal on triple and double wall flue. He wasn't 100% sure if a wood setup would be the same requirements as an oil furnace as far as spacing from walls and through insulation. We both assume they would be very similar?

Thanks again and if pics do not come through I will try something different

 

[begreen]

Pics came through and are helpful. Is there anything currently connected to a flue in the basement?

What you are proposing may be possible. it will take some demolition and careful advance planning so that clearances are honored for the chimneys, stove and fireplace. The good news is that you can have even a better looking setup on the 1st floor than shown. There are many choices and it can be finished with a veneer of your choice, be it tile, stone or brick.

One caveat, the basement stove can not be connected to the air handler. A 10 ft separation is required from the return duct intake to the stove. With an insulated basement ceiling the stairwell is going to be the conduit for heat to get upstairs.

 

[grandquads]

Currently I don't have any chimney of any kind. I'm aware of the air handler distance and it would have to be moved anyway for placement of the new flues. As far as the looks goes we have tons of natural creek stone in granite tha we were going to cut and make a hearth and wall from. The pic was a style of insert I had looked at and liked the glass layout. We would finish around it much differently. I understand that I have to brace the floors etc etc. thanks again and I will post more pics as soon as I can

 

[begreen]

You might not have to brace the floors unless required for the weight of the stone. ZC fireplaces are not exceptionally heavy. My stove weighs more than a lot of them. Take a look at the RSF Opel2, Kozy Z42, Heat & Glo (Northstar), Quadrafire 7100, Pacific Energy FP30, Osburn Stratford fireplaces for starters.

 

[grandquads]

Hello again. I have been looking at many zero clearance fire places boxes and stoves. Also a ton of building codes. I am able to find triple wall stove pipe at a good price and also codes allow the use of double or triple wall. I have uploaded a few pics of the basement ceiling the main floor and the roof insulation. Also with the pre Fab chimney pipe I simply install a through floor box to isolate chimney from insulation. So this should be a fairly easy install. I will brace the lower floor with a few extra pieces of beam just because we plan to build a faux masonry wall and hearth using creek and field stone ( we have plenty ). Our tv is planned to move across the room on another wall. Thanks again for all your help and please comment on any thing else. This project will probably start around may of 2018

 

[begreen]

Note that stove pipe is not the same as chimney pipe. A ZC requires chimney pipe. In general double-wall chimney will be higher quality than triple wall.

 

[grandquads]

Yes sir I have noticed the requirements and it depends on manufacturers and area code. As of now the plan is to run the inner stainless wall until the pipes exit the roof and then it will be full stainless just before and after exit all the way to cap.

Thanks again. I'm really excited about getting this project started and done. I wish I had the full funds for it today I would start tomorrow.