multi-purpose wood shed photo

[barkeatr]

Took my vacation this week to rebuild my woodshed boiler room. Lost the orignal one to a breakdown in zero clearance chimney. This one is bigger. This will also hold a workshop, tractor storage, two bays for different ages of wood. This is 4 days work for two men. its 20 x 40

The steel roofing is nice, its not the regular stuff we get here, its the old fashioned 5vcrimp that costs the same as the regular stuff. found some fiberglass 5v crimp to add light at workshop and in wood storage area.

This is quite an investement..but I dont have any type of workshop area...my garage is a carport kind of thing. anyway if there is interest i will keep posting progress. picture may be bad, i had a heck of a time reducing the size and it kept saying the size was too big when it wasnt!

barkeatr

 

[barkeatr]

Here are some drawing images of under construction woodshed.

I need shelter from the rain!

happy Memorial day weekend.

barkeater

 

[barkeatr]

some rough elevation drawings...

 

[certified106]

That is gonna be SWEET! Did you draw up the plans yourself?

 

[maxed_out]

nice going, if you dont mind me asking what kind of budget are you working with? I might want to build one of those myself.

 

[lfunk11]

keep postint progress pics - I like seeing pics of people building things. Always learn something new.

 

[Lumber-Jack]

Hope you are open to constructive criticism, because that is way too nice a shop to not invest in a proper foundation base :-/

At the very least I would have poured a concrete curb foundation for the walls to sit on to keep the wood up off the ground.

 

[Backwoods Savage]

By all means, please do continue with the pictures. It looks great.

 

[barkeatr]

thanks for the comments, will try to answer questions in this post. yes i drew the plans myself and dont mind criticism. I understand the comment on the foundation, my thoughts are that if your not going to frost (5' down in these parts) then there is nothing to gain by using a concrete grade beam vs a PT grade beam. I did use marine grade Pressure treated for all wood within 6-8" of grade. Marine grade was a little more expensive and a special order. The Pressure treated grade beam has 12-16" crushed stone below it (with fabric) and on both sides so its going to stay pretty dry. Columns/point loads do sit on concrete block, so its supported by both the block and crushed stone under the grade beam. I expect to do some ajusting shimming a little over the years, although when it came to put siding on the last building i did like this, I found it remained very square and plumb over 3 winters. While a real foundation to frost is ideal, the cost of that would have pushed my 13,-15,000 budget into the 25,000 range. That budget number is for the entire building except for the interior fit out of the workshop ( doors, insulation, slab floor) That number includes some hired help at 25 per hour, but lots of my labor.

I have stakes driven between the double 2x8 PT grade beam, but plan on adding some helical screw anchors ( the kind they hold down mobil homes with) or using the concrete slab floor as an anchor, if I do a concrete slab floor anyway.
thanks for your comments!

 

[Lumber-Jack]

thanks for the comments, will try to answer questions in this post. yes i drew the plans myself and dont mind criticism. I understand the comment on the foundation, my thoughts are that if your not going to frost (5' down in these parts) then there is nothing to gain by using a concrete grade beam vs a PT grade beam. I did use marine grade Pressure treated for all wood within 6-8" of grade. Marine grade was a little more expensive and a special order. The Pressure treated grade beam has 12-16" crushed stone below it (with fabric) and on both sides so its going to stay pretty dry. Columns/point loads do sit on concrete block, so its supported by both the block and crushed stone under the grade beam. I expect to do some ajusting shimming a little over the years, although when it came to put siding on the last building i did like this, I found it remained very square and plumb over 3 winters. While a real foundation to frost is ideal, the cost of that would have pushed my 13,-15,000 budget into the 25,000 range. That budget number is for the entire building except for the interior fit out of the workshop ( doors, insulation, slab floor) That number includes some hired help at 25 per hour, but lots of my labor.

I have stakes driven between the double 2x8 PT grade beam, but plan on adding some helical screw anchors ( the kind they hold down mobil homes with) or using the concrete slab floor as an anchor, if I do a concrete slab floor anyway.
thanks for your comments!

Sounds good :cheese: Carry on.

 

[DexterDay]

Yes Please..... Always post more pics... And more info.. I have just transformed a a Dog Kennel into a Wood Shed. Here is the that thread. https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/75377/


I also have a "Cleary" 30x40 builing in my back 40 that I have been interested in either selling or moving closer to the house. If I could sell it. I want to build a Big Wood Shed Close to the house... Keep posting... We Love Pics.....

 

[bogydave]

Great picture so far.
Cant tell squat from the drawings. We need more pictures. :zip:
Looks like a fun project.
Gonna be sweet when done.
Gonna have power out to it? (for the beer fridge) ?

 

[raybonz]

Wow that should be awesome! Did you draft that shed with Google Sketch Up? Ya know there could be a market for shelters like yours as there are so many wood burners around these days.. I know I could use one like that with a place to keep the snowblower on the side along with bicycles etc.. A true multipurpose shelter..

Ray

 

[barkeatr]

thanks for the comments, yes there is power for the beer fridge...HAHAh... somehow you folks know what a man cave looks like when you see it. HAHA. I will post more photos in the coming days. Rafters are all up as of today, but lifting these fresh cut 2x8 locally milled pine is a workout!

Total lumber package, rough cut as well as pressure treated is coming in the 3400 range..give or take. I want to guess if it was all bought at the lumber store it would have been more like 5,500 or so..

I did the drawings with vectorworks architect.

barkeatr

 

[barkeatr]

here is a photo with the rafters and furring on...the low roof portion of the salt box is not built yet and the doors and windows are not cut out yet..love the rough cut lumber.

 

[raybonz]

here is a photo with the rafters and furring on...the low roof portion of the salt box is not built yet and the doors and windows are not cut out yet..love the rough cut lumber.

Holy cow that is as big as a house! At least you know where to go if the wife kicks you out!

:lol:

Ray

 

[bogydave]

Awesome!
Love the ridge pole sticking out. Great place for a block&tackle;
You've done projects like this before. Great workmanship!

 

[barkeatr]

thanks...

 

[SnapCracklePop]

Crikey! What are the dimensions of your roof trusses? Are those 2 by 10s? 2 by 8s?

Couldn't you get anything bigger???

Nancy

 

[smokinj]

Pitch like that you can say 2 story!

 

[DexterDay]

Pitch like that you can say 2 story!

There should be a "Man-Cave" up there.. Very nice job. Bravo

 

[woodsmaster]

Shouldn't have to worry about snow on the roof. Looks nice.

 

[Beardog]

Looks awesome! Pic with roof shows hoe large it actually is as the first pic makes it look mug smaller.

 

[Jack Straw]

WOW...that's great! I don't understand your foundation (I'm a little slow, eh). You said you used treated, is that what I would call the bottom plate? What keeps the bottom of the walls from pusihing in or out? I would like to build a barn and I am always looking for ideas.

 

[barkeatr]

bottom plate is two 2x8s with a 2x6 cap. There are concrete blocks under column or point loads. the bottom plate becomes pretty much encased in crushed stone and there are no forces that act on it that will push them in or out. Also i have driven stakes down between the two 2x8 every 8 feet or so (before the 2x6 pt) was put on.... so that will resist movement. I pack the stone under the grade beam so it is supporting wall load as well as the blocks under the point loads. even without the stakes the top cap helps restrict lateral loads or pushing in our out.



thanks for all your comments.