Musings on Chainsaws, Bar, and Chains

[MarkinNC]

Like a lot of people I have had a homeowner type saw for the past 12 years or so that I used intermittently and I was happy with it. In my case we are talking about a Husqvarna 50 Special.

Fast forward to this year and I started harvesting wood for my upcoming wood stove. I made the spontaneous purchase of a used but like brand new 372 XP. Life will never be the same as far as chain saws go. That old 50 special is really in tinker toy in retro spec.

I bought my saw from an out of work trucker who hauled some timber in the past and the loggers apparently recommended this saw. He also put a "Hi Tech" titanium bar on it and a Carlton chain (I like Oregon chains better so far). The bar has provided great service really. Something I noticed Immediately (besides my new saw was like a race car) was that the 3/8 pitch chain stays sharper better that the .325 pitch chain. More challenging cuts like bore cuts became easy with the 372 XP and boy would it cut through a large tree so much faster than my old saw. It did not was to kick back on me very easily etc.

I ran my old saw the other day doing a little light cutting. It wanted to kick back a lot more than the 372 and I was thinking it was almost more dangerous. It has an Oregon bar and a almost new chain. I have a theaory that the bigger saw has so much more power it cuts instead of kicks. Or may that titanium bar is just better engineered. Any insight?

 

[Nic36]

I too just bought a 372XP and have yet to really run it. It came with a 20" bar, but I plan to briefly put a 28" bar on it with a skip chain for the trunk of a very large oak that is down in my yard. I bought it used last week from a young fellow on Craigslist that was in the wood business briefly. The verdict is out on how well I like this saw. I have had a 55 Rancher for about 5 years without so much as a single issue. I am very fond of that saw, even though it is considered a homeowners saw. I have never really had any kickback problems with it.

Does your 372XP have a longer bar on it than your other saw? Cutting with the tip does produce more noticeable kickback.

 

[golfandwoodnut]

I still have a Husqvarna 50 special and I think it is great. I have a bigger Stihl 390 I use for the bigger stuff but the 50 still saws great and I never have kick back. I have a 16 inch chain on my husky and really like it. That is strange to me that you have kickback, nothing about the saw should make it do that. That is a serious issue when you have kickback and is usually caused by hitting the tip on another branch or, not properly cutting through a trunk where the tip pinches. The saw should not be at fault, be careful, with a bigger saw you might have a bigger kickback.

 

[jcjohnston]

just stepped up to my first Stihl from CL an 028 AV Woodboss man I should have done this years ago. this thing cuts like nothing I own, and it is still running the safety chain!!

 

[wendell]

Congratulations on the new saw. The first thing that comes to mind if the rakers are too low on the 50 making it really grabby.

 

[MarkinNC]

I too just bought a 372XP and have yet to really run it. It came with a 20" bar, but I plan to briefly put a 28" bar on it with a skip chain for the trunk of a very large oak that is down in my yard. I bought it used last week from a young fellow on Craigslist that was in the wood business briefly. The verdict is out on how well I like this saw. I have had a 55 Rancher for about 5 years without so much as a single issue. I am very fond of that saw, even though it is considered a homeowners saw. I have never really had any kickback problems with it.

Does your 372XP have a longer bar on it than your other saw? Cutting with the tip does produce more noticeable kickback.

I certainly don't have any complaints about the reliability of my 50 Special and it did everything I ever wanted it to. With some frequency I find myself using almost every bit of the 24" bar I am running on the 372 XP. I took down a dead Beach this week and took a pic of my son running a tractor mounted splliter (not mine) with a large piece of wood on it. I tried to attach it but it says it is too big. I'll have to read the sticky about pics. I used every bit of the bar on that tree as well.

I have been tempted to try skip chain. I have scene it cut and it does look faster. I guess that is a topic for another post.

I'd bet money, after reading your post, that you have only test cut with your new saw. What I did was cut the same log with both saws, about a 18" red oak in my case. Both saws had sharp chains. the XP was 30% faster when my wife timed me. More power and higher RPM's is what I noticed.

For the other posters. I know what part of the bar causes kick back etc. I grew up burning wood and got my first saw about 6th grade i think. That little Jonsered was an impressive saw. Anyway, kickback maybe the wrong term. Jumpy or grabby maybe better terms. There was no violent kick back per se. But I did think it was more dangerous.

 

[Nic36]

Yes, I only made a test cut or two with the saw. That was really to see how it would run-and it screams. I just need to get it set up properly. The chain left on it by the previous owner needed changing. There was very little left to sharpen on it (the file guide marks weren't even there) and it cut like crap. I did go through the trouble of touching it up and filing the rakers down, and it cut better, but not great. A new chain will go on it when I put the 20" bar back on it. It is off right now waiting on the 28" to arrive in the mail. The owner gave me two new chains when I bought it-WoodlandPro brand chain. I've always used Oregon brand and I don't know what to expect with this brand.

I ordered the 28" bar because I had to have it for that big tree down in my yard. I have never used skip chain, but it is my understanding that it doesn't really cut faster, but you can run a bigger bar without bogging down. From what I read, the 28" bar is the upper limit of the 372XP, so I bought the skip chain. I also read that skip chain is more prone to kickback due to the longer space between each tooth.

By the way, how does the 372 handle the 24" bar? I thought about looking for one cheap on eBay, but really don't need one. To me, I think the saw would probably look more proportional with a 24" bar though. (If looks is really a factor)

Don't think I am disappointed in the saw. I haven't really used it yet. The only thing that got me wary of the saw is that the screw that goes on one side of the chain brake handle had fallen out. I recognized that right away and commented on it before I bought it. Later, I discovered the inner dog screws were loose and a muffler support screw was missing. I have since replaced the missing screw on the chain brake, replaced both muffler support screws with longer ones including lock washers, and put lock washers on the dog screws to keep them from loosening. Hopefully this won't be an ongoing issue. My 55 Rancher never has lost a screw or anything.

I think I understand what you are saying about the "kickback". It sounds like you had it right in your first post. The 50 is having a harder time pulling the chain than the 372. You didn't say what length bar was on the 50. I can say that my 55 with the 18" bar is maxed out on bar length. It has a hard time when fully buried in a log and can be grabby, especially in dead wood.

 

[HittinSteel]

Nic, your 372 will pull the 28" and skip chain set up nicely. I just worked up a big sugar maple trunk with the same combo. I was impressed.

 

[Nic36]

Nic, your 372 will pull the 28" and skip chain set up nicely. I just worked up a big sugar maple trunk with the same combo. I was impressed.

That's great news. Thanks. Hopefully it will get here in a day or two so I can try it.

 

[MarkinNC]

Congratulations on the new saw. The first thing that comes to mind if the rakers are too low on the 50 making it really grabby.

That is an interesting idea. For the life of me, I cannot remember if I had it sharpened "professionally?" I had just picked a new place after the last chain they sharpened cut crooked. I have a brand new chain I will have to try.

 

[MarkinNC]

Yes, I only made a test cut or two with the saw. That was really to see how it would run-and it screams. I just need to get it set up properly. The chain left on it by the previous owner needed changing. There was very little left to sharpen on it (the file guide marks weren't even there) and it cut like crap. I did go through the trouble of touching it up and filing the rakers down, and it cut better, but not great. A new chain will go on it when I put the 20" bar back on it. It is off right now waiting on the 28" to arrive in the mail. The owner gave me two new chains when I bought it-WoodlandPro brand chain. I've always used Oregon brand and I don't know what to expect with this brand.

I ordered the 28" bar because I had to have it for that big tree down in my yard. I have never used skip chain, but it is my understanding that it doesn't really cut faster, but you can run a bigger bar without bogging down. From what I read, the 28" bar is the upper limit of the 372XP, so I bought the skip chain. I also read that skip chain is more prone to kickback due to the longer space between each tooth.

By the way, how does the 372 handle the 24" bar? I thought about looking for one cheap on eBay, but really don't need one. To me, I think the saw would probably look more proportional with a 24" bar though. (If looks is really a factor)

Don't think I am disappointed in the saw. I haven't really used it yet. The only thing that got me wary of the saw is that the screw that goes on one side of the chain brake handle had fallen out. I recognized that right away and commented on it before I bought it. Later, I discovered the inner dog screws were loose and a muffler support screw was missing. I have since replaced the missing screw on the chain brake, replaced both muffler support screws with longer ones including lock washers, and put lock washers on the dog screws to keep them from loosening. Hopefully this won't be an ongoing issue. My 55 Rancher never has lost a screw or anything.

I think I understand what you are saying about the "kickback". It sounds like you had it right in your first post. The 50 is having a harder time pulling the chain than the 372. You didn't say what length bar was on the 50. I can say that my 55 with the 18" bar is maxed out on bar length. It has a hard time when fully buried in a log and can be grabby, especially in dead wood.

I have read about folks out west running longer bars on the 372's but I think they are running them in softer wood than maple (or the hard woods I cut). The manual says 28 inches is OK and my saw screams with a 24 " bar. I did turn my oil pump all the way just in case. I hear locally and have read that a 24" bar and the 372 are a good combo.

Like I said I purchased my saw with very few hours on it. I have essentially put all the wear on it. I think I sharpened the initial chain ~ 12 times or so. I have been cutting a lot the last 2 weeks and recently when I serviced my saw, I noticed the inner felling spike was loose. I ended up checking all the allen bolts on the saw and there were a lot of them loose. I thought these saws rev a lot more than consumer saws and are more prone to loosening things up. Perhaps more experienced with these saws can enlighten us? I now check them with every service. That is a great idea with the lock washers. Are the screws all the same length?

Digressing a bit (and not trying to offend anybody): I have learned a lot from some folks in the tree business and one in particular was very influential on my purchase of the 372. But, sometimes there are some unsophisticated people working in the firewood business. Perhaps you purchased your saw from one of those types? One of the reasons I got a 372 was after running an old one that was just beat to hell. They are designed for daily use so one should last me a maybe the rest of my life (I'm 45). Long way around the barn but my point is that unless your saw was run without an air filter, I would bet a lot of money it will provide you with many years of service and it sounds like you have made it right.

My prediction is that you will not enjoy running the rancher any more. Or maybe I just like bigger saws? The little saws do work you on the bigger stuff but it can get tiring limbing with a 372 XP as well. I am currently researching a small professional saw for limbing.

 

[Nic36]

I may buy a 24" bar down the road, but think I will hold off for now. I will keep an eye out for a cheap one on eBay.

The saw I bought looks brand new and is a 2009 model. The person I bought it from was a younger man (about 23, I'm 39). He seemed well educated and was actually going to school for wind energy engineering, or something to that effect. The saw functions fine, and I have only spent about 2 or 3 extra dollars for the screws. Mine sounds like yours in that the inner felling spike (AKA dogs/dawgs) screws were loose. I had some small lock washers at home that I have put on those. I thought about using loc-tite too, but I will see if the lock washers work first. Both of those screws are identical type and length. I had one muffler support screw that was missing. I took it to the saw shop and they did not have an actual husqvarna replacement screw, but found me two with the same thread that were twice as long and had a bolt head instead of an allen head. They gave me lock washers for those and I did use loc-tite on them as well. Because they are longer, I should see those backing out if they ever do become loose. The chain brake screw I replaced with the stock screw. It screws into the hole on the covering for the pull cord and will not screw back out of it, because I have tried. I have no idea why the original would have came out.

All minor things that really haven't affected the functionality of the saw. I just wasn't expecting that and it made me wary that there may be more to come. I can be overly pessimistic at times. You're probably right on the high revving being a key to causing the loosening. I know it now, and will keep an eye out for that in the future.

I was thinking about the 55 Rancher and it's future use down the road and what I would probably use more. You are right in that it will probably go to the 372. However, the 55 is a good brush saw and it's lighter weight makes it more suitable for lengthy operation. So, I am sure it will still have it's uses. I just hate having to maintain multiple pieces of equipment.

 

[MarkinNC]

I just serviced my saw tonight after running it Saturday. A couple more of those 4mm hex head bolts were maybe a quarter of a turn loose. The one of the chain brake specifically comes to mind. I think I am going to talk to the local saw dealers about using a drop of non permanent thread locker. Perhaps one of the more experienced guys on here can guide me on that.

 

[smokinj]

I have the t-handle tools I can get things pretty snug without the lock tite. Just check it often normally you will get it to stay with out the lock tite.

 

[Nic36]

Yeah Jay, I plan to keep a check on them from this point on. I'm not too terribly worried about it, but would like to see them all stay tight. The inner dawg screws cannot be tightened without taking the bar off. So, I hope those stay put, but those cannot work all the way out either since the bar is in the way. At least, I don't think they can. If I have to, I will take the inner dawg screws off an next use blue (removable) loctite plus the lock washers. Lock washers alone usually solve most screw loosening problems, but I never tried them on a chainsaw.

I am fairly confident I have the muffler support screws tight with the loctite and lock washers. I will probably know soon enough as I plan to use the saw soon.

Between now and my last post, the UPS man dropped off my 28" bar. I couldn't resist and went to the barn and put it on along with the Oregon full chisel skip chain. I was anxious to try it out and I clamped a 10 inch thick piece of red oak to my splitter and cut on it. All I can say is, "Whoah!" I was very impressed at the cutting speed and power of the saw. Of course, the real test will come later when I try it on the 4 foot wide very dead and hard Willow Oak. But for now, I am quite impressed.