My Englander stove doesn't work right - ever.

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Most likely impossible at this point based on the sheer impossibility of getting the original through the wall.

Also, I come in UNDER 14....which, while close to 15 isnt 15. I could attempt to vent it straight out and see if it helps....how long should I make that run? How does one support that?

If I took the top horizontal run off (temporarily) would that mess anything up? It would drop my EVL down to 8....but it would be venting straight up
 
I'm trying to figure out why there is a 1' horizontal run off the 90 at the top of vertical run ... usual configuration is vertical, 90, and termination cap. Features on house that require clearance (windows, air inlet, etc) ?

What materials for walls? Brick?

Edit: What type of termination cap?

Pics might help:)
 
I'm trying to figure out why there is a 1' horizontal run off the 90 at the top of vertical run ... usual configuration is vertical, 90, and termination cap. Features on house that require clearance (windows, air inlet, etc) ?

What materials for walls? Brick?


Doesnt need clearance, I can take it off tomorrow during the blizzard...
 
Mother Nature can be a *itch... We're finally in the -20sF up from -40F two nights ago;lol

Not an expert on this type of installation as ours is just horizontal - Dimension between house exterior and exterior of vertical vent? That plus elbow and termination cap = 12" from exterior wall per manual?

Exterior wall materials? Curious as to why so difficult to get thimble installed...
 
The stove worked the same before and after the replacement of the wires

i just checked the mode and its on 3. When I hit the blower buttons a three shows up on the left side readout. Damn i wish this was it.

the tech cleaned everything and used a huge air compressor.

Here is a picture of the window (which was crystal clear 1.5 hours ago) just as I shut it down a few minutes ago.

http://i.imgur.com/KZUxDjd.jpg

that is 1.5 hours on 9/9
Just because a "tech" cleaned it it does not mean it was clean.....and how long ago was that? How many bags through since?
 
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This may sound simple but give it a try, works for me. Open the ash draw about an inch and set bottom three buttons to 1-4-3. Allows more combustion air if oak is restricted and increases pot stirrer rotation.
 
Just because a "tech" cleaned it it does not mean it was clean.....and how long ago was that? How many bags through since?

It is and was very clean. After the cleaning it didnt work any better than when I cleaned it. Please note, this stove has never worked properly, so it doesnt come down to a bad cleaning etc.

All seals are good
 
My suggestion = after 3+ years of unhappiness, it is very clear that you will never be happy with the stove under any circumstances so yank it out, put it on craigslist, and get another brand of stove. End of problem, hopefully.
 
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It is and was very clean. After the cleaning it didnt work any better than when I cleaned it. Please note, this stove has never worked properly, so it doesnt come down to a bad cleaning etc.

All seals are good

What brands of pellets have you tried?

Also, is there any way for you to measure the RPM of the combustion blower?
 
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My suggestion = after 3+ years of unhappiness, it is very clear that you will never be happy with the stove under any circumstances so yank it out, put it on craigslist, and get another brand of stove. End of problem, hopefully.

Ok, this isnt true. I WANT my 2k investment to work. I am desperate for it to work. But at the moment, it just isnt and it is coming to a head.
 
What brands of pellets have you tried?

Also, is there any way for you to measure the RPM of the combustion blower?

I started with inferno, then started playing with other brands as I had issues. I found that the type of pellets really only changed the consistency of the crap in the burn pot, nothing burned right

At the moment, using greene team. They are the most consistent so far on the low speed burns.
 
I started with inferno, then started playing with other brands as I had issues. I found that the type of pellets really only changed the consistency of the crap in the burn pot, nothing burned right

At the moment, using greene team. They are the most consistent so far on the low speed burns.
I've used Inferno's, they are trash. The produce poor heat and lots of gunk.
I am presently burning Greene Team's (for the second winter). They burn well, produce a fair amount of ash and leave little crust in the ash pan.
Slow burns produce more gunk than hot burns. If you are running for prolonged periods at slow burn you are going to get gunk in the burn pot.
The flame you showed in those pictures didn't look that bad to me, so other than having to clean your stove more often, what is it that is troubling you?
 
At this point, you need to check your combustion blower as IHP pointed out......the only other suggestion is you are dumping a shitload of fuel in that thing running it on 9....does the stove burn ok when you just have the feed set on 3 or 4? I have my stove set on 1-4-1 and cant run my feed past 3 or 4 as the thing is usually blazing by then....but it does depend on the pellet being burned too.....
 
At this point, you need to check your combustion blower as IHP pointed out......the only other suggestion is you are dumping a shitload of fuel in that thing running it on 9....does the stove burn ok when you just have the feed set on 3 or 4? I have my stove set on 1-4-1 and cant run my feed past 3 or 4 as the thing is usually blazing by then....but it does depend on the pellet being burned too.....

So the 9 setting is the low burn air...does that change the fuel feed rate? This is what englander had told me to put it on.
 
I've used Inferno's, they are trash. The produce poor heat and lots of gunk.
I am presently burning Greene Team's (for the second winter). They burn well, produce a fair amount of ash and leave little crust in the ash pan.
Slow burns produce more gunk than hot burns. If you are running for prolonged periods at slow burn you are going to get gunk in the burn pot.
The flame you showed in those pictures didn't look that bad to me, so other than having to clean your stove more often, what is it that is troubling you?

I agree. It isnt the cleaning...If I kick the stove up to lets say 8, It will take about an hour or so, but eventually the window will go black, smoke will be pouring out the vent outside and the burnpot will back all the way up and the stove will eventually shut off. But there will still be fire burning in the ash pan (spilled over) and set off the c02 detectors in the house. This is bad and CANNOT be the normal operation of the stove.

I tend to totally shut down every 3 days and clean the hell out of the thing. Annoying, yes, but it is what I have had to do so far. Every day or so, I stop the stove long enough to clean out the backed up burn pot then kick it back on.
 
I agree. It isnt the cleaning...If I kick the stove up to lets say 8, It will take about an hour or so, but eventually the window will go black, smoke will be pouring out the vent outside and the burnpot will back all the way up and the stove will eventually shut off. But there will still be fire burning in the ash pan (spilled over) and set off the c02 detectors in the house. This is bad and CANNOT be the normal operation of the stove.

I tend to totally shut down every 3 days and clean the hell out of the thing. Annoying, yes, but it is what I have had to do so far. Every day or so, I stop the stove long enough to clean out the backed up burn pot then kick it back on.
Here is the flame right now

http://i.imgur.com/aDBAnZb.jpg

Also, it REEKS outside from the smoke. I smell it and think of oil....
 
Here is the flame right now

http://i.imgur.com/aDBAnZb.jpg

Also, it REEKS outside from the smoke. I smell it and think of oil....
The flame looks bright and active, but the smoke implies that it is burning rich. So, perhaps it's moving air though the fire box, but there is too much fuel. I can barely smell either of my stoves when I am outside and they are burning.
Has the auger motor ever been replaced? At some point you may want to verify that the auger shafts rotate at the correct rpm. I think all of the ESW products rotate at 1rpm, but I have seen some replacement motors with 1.5 rpm gear boxes. In diagnostic mode it is easy to count rpm of the auger motor. Do it with an empty bin.
 
You said you run your stove on 9 heat and 9 blower correct? and currently your bottom 3 settings are 1-9-1?
 
You said you run your stove on 9 heat and 9 blower correct? and currently your bottom 3 settings are 1-9-1?
generally no because it cant handle it, I am pushing it today as it is 13 degrees outside.

So usually 1: 9 with 1/9/1

right now, 8:9 1/9/1

Should I change something?
 
Forgive my ignorance, but I'm looking at the OP's stove manual right now. You all keep talking about stove settings like 1-4-1 or 1-9-1 but when I look at the manual, I only see two led displays for Heat Range and Blower Speed. Where are you reading these 3 numbers? Obviously I don't have his brand but I was thinking of getting one for my son and trying to learn.
To me, the flame looks lazy. Too bad you can't see a short video. Also, it sure sounds like way too much feed and not enough air.
 
Forgive my ignorance, but I'm looking at the OP's stove manual right now. You all keep talking about stove settings like 1-4-1 or 1-9-1 but when I look at the manual, I only see two led displays for Heat Range and Blower Speed. Where are you reading these 3 numbers? Obviously I don't have his brand but I was thinking of getting one for my son and trying to learn.
To me, the flame looks lazy. Too bad you can't see a short video. Also, it sure sounds like way too much feed and not enough air.
The three numbers are "low fuel feed", "low air feed" and "blower", respectively. They are the trim values for low burn rates 1 through 3
 
generally no because it cant handle it, I am pushing it today as it is 13 degrees outside.

So usually 1: 9 with 1/9/1

right now, 8:9 1/9/1

Should I change something?

I wonder if there is a different burn mode (beside 3) for your (our) stoves....maybe Mike H. will chime in on this thread. It still seems like an air issue.....combustion blower?????????
 
This may sound simple but give it a try, works for me. Open the ash draw about an inch and set bottom three buttons to 1-4-3. Allows more combustion air if oak is restricted and increases pot stirrer rotation.

No pot stirrer on a PAH.

To the OP,

Send a private message to stoveguy2esw he is the head of England Stove Works tech group and just so happens he is running a PAH in his house.

PAH's need a good clean exhaust system all the way from just above the burn pot to the end of the termination cap. They like all top feeders need good gaskets on the stove since the air flow going through the system actually removes the ash from the burn pot.

Your use of 9 as a low burn air setting tells me that your combustion blower isn't quite up to the task, this could be something as simple as where the impeller is on the shaft of the blower motor coupled with less than good gaskets or a burn pot that isn't
sitting in its receptacle properly (warped maybe).
 
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