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My Garn Barn....

Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by Tattooz, Nov 9, 2008.

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  1. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    Hey Rick,
    Email me your address and I will ship the crimpers :)

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  2. Birdman 22

    Birdman 22 New Member

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    Looks Great, I have a GARN 2000 heating two homes. I fire the unit twice a day, 0500 and 1700 adding one load after the intial load. Works great. There are some tricks to it (load the wood toward the back of the fire box and don't burn to much small wood at once you will get puffing). I made my own pipe as suggested by GARN which saved a ton of money $3.50 per foot total (1 1/4" pex 1" solid insulation and ABS pipe) works great. Also had trouble finding 1 1/4 fitting had to purchase a WATT crimping tool. $$$$
  3. brad068

    brad068 Feeling the Heat

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    Tat,

    Are you supplying off the top and returning in to the bottom of the Garn? And on your loop farthest away from the Garn, are you sucking from the plate heater?
  4. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    Hey Garn..
    1) Yes supply from top Return to Bottom.
    2) I am at a stand still right now.... We are having some varied opions about pump placement. Tomorrow AM is the big Pow wow with all the right people. will have a much better Idea tomorrow night.
    P.S. Take a look at my photo... Pumps to High...?
  5. brad068

    brad068 Feeling the Heat

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    Well, I hope Heaterman chimes in on this cause we discussed this awhile ago about where to supply/return. Mine is set up sucking off bottom and returning to the top. He agreed with me and that is what a old manual of a garn said, but I was wondering if that is right. I notice that when my unit is not under load that my temp gauges split about 10*F from top to bottom. I'm afraid that if it went the other way the spread would be much greater and I might possibly boil over sooner when firing.

    I don't know about sucking through the plate hx and a Y-strainer is the best setup. I think I would want to push to the hx and strainer where the water is colder-Is that loop closed? I guess that would define where the pumps goes too.
  6. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    From the conversation I had today, we are going to set up to push to the exchanger in the house.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated...
  7. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    From the conversation I had today, we are going to set up to push to the exchanger in the house.

    Any help will be greatly appreciated...
  8. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    This looks more like it....
    [​IMG]
  9. Sawyer

    Sawyer Minister of Fire

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    I am glad you and Jim K are posting your installations along with your questions. The information you are providing as well as gathering is helping me immensely. Garnification brought up some good questions for thought. I will be posting my plan soon. What software are you using for your schematic? I just have a simple line drawing program.
  10. Donl

    Donl Feeling the Heat

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    HX should be connected counterflow as opposed to concurent flow for better heat txfr.
  11. Birdman 22

    Birdman 22 New Member

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    Hello, The hx placement I found to be the easiest and most efficeant is to pipe the return of your exsiting boiler counter flow through a hx. If you have a fin tube system there is no need for a extra pump and you don't have to put a close loop in. I don't have schematic but will make one and post in a few day. Pipe losses are important, if you have a standard fin tube system Place you pump in you GARN barn, through a y strainer and check valve, to the home with a hx plumbed into the return line of you boiler. Very little line losses, very efficent. Also if the GARN is located at a height great enough above the exisiting heating system you may not have to put a hx in, just convert to an open system. Hope this helps
  12. BrownianHeatingTech

    BrownianHeatingTech Minister of Fire

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    It is counterflow, in that diagram... (the colors used just make it less obvious, I think, but the pumps point the right ways)

    Joe
  13. Jim K in PA

    Jim K in PA Minister of Fire

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    Tat - I think the pump on the GARN may be too high. I have mine mounted equivalent to about a foot above the bottom of the GARN, but pulling water from the upper bung. That is the way GARN/Dectra is now instructing owners to install the pump. Depending on your pump size and flow rate, you may be OK with respect to cavitation or suction boiling. What is your elevation?

    I'll have some updated pics of my P/S loop posted next week. I am pulling water for the secondary house loop about a foot from the Tee on the primary. I am pushing my water ~125' to the HX where the strainer is mounted in the basement about 5 feet from the oil furnace. The furnace circulator will push water through the return leg and into the HX, counter flow to the GARN water. Pretty standard stuff, AFAIK.

    Data: I am using a Grundfos UPS 43-44FC three speed on the primary. It is a low head, high flow pump. It will give me more than the 14GPM I'll need for all three secondary loads, and keep the return water warm. Based on the pump curve and my calculated head loss, I don't expect to need to run it faster than the lowest speed setting.

    I am using a Grundfos UPS 26-99FC three speed on the house secondary. I have a lot more head loss due to pipe length, fittings, and the 20 plate HX. However, I still only expect to use it on low speed.

    The second and third loops will be using a more typical Grundfos 15-58 on each loop.

    I just hope the tech that helped me pick the 20 plate HX was right.
  14. Sawyer

    Sawyer Minister of Fire

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    Boy, am I glad I read your post twice as I was focusing on the color rather than the direction arrow within the pump symbol. The installation is now clear.

    Thanks Joe!
  15. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    Thanks for all the input. Yes my pumps in the photo are to high... we are addressing this, and I will have an update when the changes have been made. The pump for the house WILL be on the floor in the Garn Barn.
  16. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    OK Pumps have been moved much lower....
    [​IMG]
  17. TCaldwell

    TCaldwell Minister of Fire

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    tat. that looks much better with those modifications,do you still have room to insulate them after a test fire
  18. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    Hi Tom, Yes they will all be wrapped......
  19. Sawyer

    Sawyer Minister of Fire

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    tat, is that a manufactured bracket on the HX? Looks like it's a solid mounting.
  20. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    Nothing to fancy....
    [​IMG]
  21. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    [​IMG]
  22. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    I hate to jump ahead but..........
    Here is the Monster waiting to go to work...
    [​IMG]
  23. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    [​IMG]
  24. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    [​IMG]
  25. Tattooz

    Tattooz New Member

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    OK the boiler and my 105 gal. solar hot water tank....
    Solar hot water first, Wood hot water second and last in line the oil.........
    So Close.... :)
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