Post in 'The Boiler Room - Wood Boilers and Furnaces' started by Tattooz, Nov 9, 2008.
Thanks a lot Tat,
I will do the same!
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Here we go lots happened today....
Monster in place...
Pex coming into the house....
Garn Barn got closed cell spray in foam insulation
Boiler in the barn is on line..... Sorry pics suck..... not good light in there...
Wednesday I am going to Vacuum out the inside and start the long filling process..... I have crappy wells, the water is good but they are slow. We should fire this thing by the end of next week..... I will have video of the event.....
Thanks to evryone that I have talked to that has helped ....!
No, THANK YOU!! You're making a huge contribution here.
Rick, I will post some better photos tomorrow.....
Like ricks, I am thankful that you and others have posted your questions and installation photos. My other projects are finally coming to an end and I will be able to work on my Garn installation. With the information posted on this site my installation will be much, much, easier ;-)
Tat - looks great. Thanks for sharing the process.
A couple of questions:
How many plates in your "monster" HX?
What is the heat load for the house?
What is the black material you have around the HX?
Lots more progress, HX is wrapped in an Insulating jacket
Boiler has been broken loose and now will run as a cold start .
Jim, Here is a shot of the sticker from the HX box....... Not sure how many plates...
[quote author="Tattooz" date="1227675044"]Boiler has been broken loose and now will run as a cold start .
I am curious why you changed plans and went to a cold start rather than the supply to the return of the existing boiler? I will have this same situation in my shop as well as the house.
I wanted to separate the two as much as possible. From what I was told . When set up the other way even in stand by your loosing heat to the flu.. This way your wood system is its own entity .
This will be a strong consideration for mr also. I intend to heat my domestic hot water year around and "up the flue losses" could waste considerable BTU's over 5 months without needing heat for the house or shop.
I had to set up my burnham the other way, needed to consider the internals drying out.....
I put in a 60 tube solar system for domestic hot water almost a year ago, state and fed one time renewable energy refunds..... and nice warm water all summer NO boiler..
I had best check with Weil McClain before I start the installation. Is the Burnham in your shop? What makes the Buderus different?
Burnham is in the barn, From what I get they are infamous for drying out gaskets when they sit idle. The Buderus will cold start with out worry.....
I don't think I could afford a solar setup for hot water after I finish setting up the Garn. It doesnt seem like we get enough sunlight here either.
I am glad you mentioned the gaskets, as I said I will check with Weil McClain and ask before I make the final decision.
An option, I've read about on this forum, I think it may have been Eric Johnson that does it..............................is, if you're sure the fossil fuel burner isn't needed, disable it and plug the flue pipe to slow standby loses. Then if you run out of wood or go away or whatever, you can unplug the flue, flip a switch and let the fossil fuel take over. I think that would work especially well for someone that's around most of the time, like me. You could burn wood or not burn wood, keep the oil/gas boiler hot and minimize standby loses.
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