Great thread this ... but I'd love to see some video of these machines up and running, there's only one on the whole web that I can find.
Cheers
;-)
Cheers
;-)
My Garn Barn....
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Tattooz said:I have two water wells, that for lack of a better word SUCK! one is 450 feet deep 1 gal a min. the other is 650 feet deep same water. So with that said, DRUM ROLL PLEASE......
THIS THING IS HALF FULL......... STARTING A FIRE ON SAT!!
I noticed this at the mrea this year too. Garn paints some kind of "paint" on the bottom third of the water jacket. I think this is to prevent corrosion from sediment buildup on the bottom. The unit I fixed and got running and a neighbors both rusted through in the same spot, right on the very bottom. Well after 20 years with little to no maintenance somethings gotta give!?
sdrobertson
Minister of Fire
I've been meaning to ask: What is the design of the slab under these Garns? A 12' x 12' pad, 6" deep w/ lots of rebar in addition to the wire? 8"? Thanks. j
That really depends on what kind of soil you have. According to the GARN install manual, a full WHS 2000 presents a load of 1810psf on the skids. That's manageable for a 4" slab with 6x6 mesh on average soil using 3000psi concrete. If you have soft/wet soil (sandy, or clay), you'll need a thicker slab/more reinforcement.
Good to know on the 'crete. I have not looked up any load specs on 'crete; still looking for them. From a gut, I figured 6" w/ wire and criss-crossed rebar would suffice.
that's a nice looking set up.
I wish my water looked that clean.
it tested ok, but looks cloudy to me.
I like your stack exhaust dump.
why didn't you go with the 45^ angle off the end?
won't the 90^ have more turbulence?
what do you have in the bottom for a damper... sand?
I got a little overzealous when I set up my Garn and neglected to install the exhaust dump.
spark will fly from time to time and they did... and they set some firewood on fire that I had dumped close by.
lucky I had buried a 1" poly water line to the shop when I installed the underground piping.
I installed it to fill the boiler, but it sure came in handy to put the fire out.
I also buried a 12-2 UF cable "just in case" and another 1" poly line to use as a raceway for another "just in case".
I wish my water looked that clean.
it tested ok, but looks cloudy to me.
I like your stack exhaust dump.
why didn't you go with the 45^ angle off the end?
won't the 90^ have more turbulence?
what do you have in the bottom for a damper... sand?
I got a little overzealous when I set up my Garn and neglected to install the exhaust dump.
spark will fly from time to time and they did... and they set some firewood on fire that I had dumped close by.
lucky I had buried a 1" poly water line to the shop when I installed the underground piping.
I installed it to fill the boiler, but it sure came in handy to put the fire out.
I also buried a 12-2 UF cable "just in case" and another 1" poly line to use as a raceway for another "just in case".
tattooz,
this will be the second year for my Garn 2000.
have you ever registered on the Garn web site for there forum?
it's not up and running yet, but you can sign up now.
they will email you when it gets going.
they will have installation pics and tips as well as a blog.
I can't figure out how to put pics on this site.
the first time you start your unit, there will be condensate coming out of the flue by the gallon.
I thought something was wrong ... like there was a leak.
but, after talking to my neighbor, who has been using a Garn for about 20 + years, he said his did the same.
after the initial charge, it never happened again.
keep an eye on the exhaust, and if there is too much turbulance, you can turn that single wall 90^ elbow into a 45 or what ever angle it takes to make for less turbulance. you may need to bounce the exhaust off the cement wall prior to it hitting the sand. that will slow it down a little.
you may want to run the circulators prior to firing up the Garn to make sure they all work like planned.
I'm still having problems with my infloor heat not working. it never has worked.
it's not a Garn problem. I think it's pump sensor problem, or maybe a ... I wish I knew, as I am using LP to heat these rooms.
When I first turn the thermostat up to call for heat, the pumps may run for a minute or two.
Then, they will just continually click on and off.
If I jumper the contacts at the pumps, then they will run consistently until I
remove the jumper.
The floors on the first floor level do not heat up.
However, the basement infloor and the plenum HE in the basement of the old house do work.
Each loop manifold is supplied by a Taco 007 circ pump.
The thermostat is an Uponor 501s controller which utilizes slab sensors.
I should start a new thread on this.
again, nice job on your set up.
what's the tattooz stand for ... have you been under a needle a time or two?
this will be the second year for my Garn 2000.
have you ever registered on the Garn web site for there forum?
it's not up and running yet, but you can sign up now.
they will email you when it gets going.
they will have installation pics and tips as well as a blog.
I can't figure out how to put pics on this site.
the first time you start your unit, there will be condensate coming out of the flue by the gallon.
I thought something was wrong ... like there was a leak.
but, after talking to my neighbor, who has been using a Garn for about 20 + years, he said his did the same.
after the initial charge, it never happened again.
keep an eye on the exhaust, and if there is too much turbulance, you can turn that single wall 90^ elbow into a 45 or what ever angle it takes to make for less turbulance. you may need to bounce the exhaust off the cement wall prior to it hitting the sand. that will slow it down a little.
you may want to run the circulators prior to firing up the Garn to make sure they all work like planned.
I'm still having problems with my infloor heat not working. it never has worked.
it's not a Garn problem. I think it's pump sensor problem, or maybe a ... I wish I knew, as I am using LP to heat these rooms.
When I first turn the thermostat up to call for heat, the pumps may run for a minute or two.
Then, they will just continually click on and off.
If I jumper the contacts at the pumps, then they will run consistently until I
remove the jumper.
The floors on the first floor level do not heat up.
However, the basement infloor and the plenum HE in the basement of the old house do work.
Each loop manifold is supplied by a Taco 007 circ pump.
The thermostat is an Uponor 501s controller which utilizes slab sensors.
I should start a new thread on this.
again, nice job on your set up.
what's the tattooz stand for ... have you been under a needle a time or two?
Hey Tat, I take it that thats not grease on yours arms 
On hilltoppers idea of the 45 on the exhaust is a good idea. When my unit was in my work shop I had it exhausting out then 90 down. In my case, the 90 did seem to cause to much turbulence and restriction and when the exhaust plumes came up out of the 55 gal barrel they seemed to hang around and get sucked back in the intake. My new setup has a 55 gal barrel with a 45 flue pipe angled at the barrel. Seems to burn better and not hang around as much but now that there is snow on the ground, I moved the barrel and let the exhaust blow outward.
On hilltoppers idea of the 45 on the exhaust is a good idea. When my unit was in my work shop I had it exhausting out then 90 down. In my case, the 90 did seem to cause to much turbulence and restriction and when the exhaust plumes came up out of the 55 gal barrel they seemed to hang around and get sucked back in the intake. My new setup has a 55 gal barrel with a 45 flue pipe angled at the barrel. Seems to burn better and not hang around as much but now that there is snow on the ground, I moved the barrel and let the exhaust blow outward.
Tattooz said:As for the 45.... This is what came with my Gar Unit......
Just checking, can"t tell from your pix, but mine came with a flex 90 that I wrestled into a 45 ...
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