I AM GETTING READY TO PURCHASE MY FIRST STOVE, IM TRYING TO MAKE THE BEST POSSIBLE DECISION. WE HAVE NARROWED IT DOWN TO 2 STOVES,THE JOTUL 600 & THE AVALON ARBOR. CAN ANYONE TELL ME PROS & CONS OF TOP LOAD VS. SIDE? WHAT IS A SAFE DISTANCE FOR A COUCH TO THE SIDE OF THE UNIT ? THANKS IN ADVANCE.
MY HEADS READY TO EXPLODE
- Thread starter DAN VAN
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DAN VAN said:
I have a Jotul Firelight, bought it in 1999/2000ish. It can be loaded from the front or top. IMO, and some will beg to differ, top loaders absolutely rule. It's easy to load however you like and easier yet to pack it to the rafters for a good overnight burn. As a yout my parents ran a Defiant, side loader. You could load that handily as well but getting a big load in you had to wrestle that last few splits in because you have to go up and over the wood you just put in. Top loading you don't have that issue.
As far as distances to combustables, the manual will tell you all you need to know about that. If you are purchasing a used stove, many manuals are available on line (as well as exploded drawings with replacement part numbers).
Choose wisely.
Hogwildz
Minister of Fire
Both are good stoves from good companies. There are many differences between these stoves, top vs side loading is just one of them. The first is firebox capacity. (Arbor 2.3 cu ft, F600 3 cu ft) Which is better sized for your home? The second is the burning technology. The Avalon is a downdraft stove, the F600 is an updraft stove. The Arbor is a more complex stove to operate with more parts that will need maintenance over time. Downdraft stoves burn at the back of the stove which gives less fire view if that matters to you. I like both top and side loading stove options, but how it burns and getting the stove size is probably more important to me. Another difference that may be important is the enameling process. Jotul (and Hearthstone) use a different type of enamel on the blue-black and ivory stoves. It's tougher than the majolica enamel process.
Henz
New Member
Dan, did you read this announcement info?
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewannounce/13750_2/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/choosing_a_wood_stove
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewannounce/13750_2/
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/choosing_a_wood_stove
Thanks for the info, I decided to go with the jotul 600, now i just need to decide whether to build a hearth pad or buy one.
If anybody can help with what type of materials i would appreciate it.
If anybody can help with what type of materials i would appreciate it.
Adios Pantalones
Minister of Fire
Search here- there's lots of threads on this one- with some great designs people have put together (you will be inspired!).
BJ64
Minister of Fire
DAN VAN said:
You made a good choice. I have the Lopi Leyden which I think is the same as the Avalon Arbor. My uncle lives nearby and has the Jotul 500 which is the little brother to your 600.
I fired the Leyden for the first time this morning and the flame is not quite as pretty as in the Jotul. The Leyden/Arbor may be more convenient to load but I would think that that a few moments of convenience would be more than offset by many hours of enjoying a prettier fire.
A good install is what you need to think about now. Pay attention to the instructions and install the length of chimney pipe that is required for a good draft and use seasoned wood. You will have years of satisfaction just by doing these simple things. You can see by the number of daily posters at this site (even in the off season) that many people deeply enjoy what you are about to experience this winter.
Cheers and welcome to the club!
:cheese:
RedRanger
New Member
Uh, Dan: you did say that you have nice dry firewood to burn for this season, didn`t you?/ Like 20% moisture content or less?
Otherwise, smoke, backpuffs, and yep, lots of creosote :bug:
Otherwise, smoke, backpuffs, and yep, lots of creosote :bug:
Todd
Minister of Fire
Newer EPA stoves really need dry wood to burn efficiently. Wet wood is bad because it robs the BTU's from the wood as the moisture sizzles away. Draft is effected since the fire isn't hot enough so more smoke and creosote is produced.
Todd
Minister of Fire
Go over to "The Gear" forum and do a search for moisture meters, all kinds of info. I got mine off E-Bay for $20.
RedRanger
New Member
DAN VAN said:
Get the moisture meter soon. I have been burning wood for 30+ years and after getting my new epa insert only came to realize that these wonderful new stoves and inserts can be very disspapointing if you are burning less than seasoned wood.
Okay, Dan, buy it soon, then take your split wood and re-split it and take the measurement from the middle of the split piece. Don`t be lazy and just probe the outside of your wood. Nowhere near accurate. Said it before and will say it again-"these new stoves and inserts almost demand nice dry wood to burn effectively"..
And if you don`t like the moisture meter reading, then start splitting your wood smaller and maybe, just maybe you will have some to burn this winter.
BJ64
Minister of Fire
DAN VAN said:
Look at this thread. Several of us have been happy with the little Harbor Freight meter for less than $20.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/21045/
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