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  1. Defiant

    Defiant Vermont Castings Geek

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    Old Lyme CT
    Had to do it ==c
    raybonz likes this.

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  2. kksalm

    kksalm Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2007
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    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
    Test post with pics?.... Nothing works with upload a file, my attachments, or more options, next to the post reply button. iPad 2 is same generation of iPhone 3 so maybe your iPhone 4 has a way that I don't?
    I'll figure it out, eventually. Maybe.
  3. raybonz

    raybonz Minister of Fire

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    Loc:
    Carver, MA.
    That was a great show! Tim Allen is a funny guy! :)

    Ray
  4. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2009
    Messages:
    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    Get a free photo host site(I use Photobucket). Upload pic's there, then click on the images "direct ink" & copy it. Here on the forum reply, click on that little tree, paste the link there then hit "post reply". The image will show on the thread...easy eh?_g

    I went to see Tim Allen do his stand-up routine way back when. My cheeks(on my FACE) hurt for several days because I laughed so hard for so long...the guy is really talented.
  5. kksalm

    kksalm Member

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    Dec 21, 2007
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    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
  6. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

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    Nov 10, 2009
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    Loc:
    East TN.
    KK, top right of you photobucket photo, click on that gear wheel.....then on "Get Links", then copy the "Direct Link"...then come back here and paste it in the image link. Go forth and multiply...........:cool:
  7. kksalm

    kksalm Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2007
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    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
    I can't find an image link.i have upload a file that I can't do anything on, my attachments that has Defiant's jpg that I can't do anything with, and Preview. I copied the direct link in photobucket and can paste it here
    http://s1276.photobucket.com/albums/y470/kksalm/Snapbucket/
    There's no image link to paste it to.
    Thanks for your help, it's much appreciated.
  8. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2009
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    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    You have to start a reply(here on Hearth), then click on the "tree" icon above where you are replying. When you do that a box will appear that says "enter image url" ...paste the photobucket direct link there, then click "insert'.....then click below..."post reply".
  9. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2009
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    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    I know it is like learning chinese before dinner, but keep at it.....when it happens it will be very enlightening......:
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    raybonz likes this.
  10. kksalm

    kksalm Member

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    Dec 21, 2007
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    83
    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
    Starting reply, there's no tree, only an ad for draw collar. Remember, I'm on an ipad2, no flash which maybe I need?
    It's probably time to fire up "the new computer" in which case I'll likely be posting pictures days from now.
    Thanks!
  11. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

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    Nov 10, 2009
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    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    Hmmm...sorry no I-pad here...no help...................
  12. new england tommy

    new england tommy New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2013
    Messages:
    14
    Hello, I am new here, I dont want to hickjack a thread, I hope thisquestion is close enough for all. I have been using an original H 1 all season so far with decent results. It runs a little smokey with flu temps 250 - 300 18" up the stack.

    Motor7, I think you or triage took the stove all down. Are the primary air supply tubes tough to remove, any advice? I think one of you mentioned that they were full of ash and I am pretty sure this is probably common with these stoves. I know mine are full from where i can see.

    To the OP, rebuild this beast, mine heats almost 2000 sq feet home, from the basement and
    temps in the teens, with over night burns and sometimes flames after 8 hours. We decided to make some living space in he basement to enjoy the stove more often. We do use a lot of wood.



    Anybody else make mods to this? How about the secondary burn tube, bigger holes?
  13. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

    Joined:
    Nov 10, 2009
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    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    Tommy here is the H1 manual which has a IPL down on the last couple of pages:

    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/images/uploads/H-1-2manual.pdf

    The diagram of the HI is not that great and does not really show the Primary air vents that are at the bottom on both sides...but they are there and ash can pack those vent slots so good you can't even tell there are supposed to be slots. If you follow the Primary air path from where it comes in at the rear flapper, you can see it goes in, straight down, then forward(lower left of firebox) then through the crossover tube, then straight back(lower right of firebox).

    You don't need to do a complete dis-assembly. I would remove the baffle first, through the front doors look up and on each side is one bolt sticking through the baffle with double nuts on it. Spray them down a few times with a penetrator like Blaster or Kroil & let them soak.

    Get out your shop vac & a roll of duct tape & a small (1/2" or 3/4") diameter rubber hose 1' long or so. Tape the hose to the nozzle of the vacuum and start cleaning the Primary air slots on both sides of the firebox floor. If they are really packed and you can't get them clean there are visible bolts to remove the two side air vents. The crossover tube in front(floor of the firebox) that connects the two does not have air slots so it usually does not need to be removed.

    Spray a penetrator on any bolt/nut that you are going to try and remove. Years of burning really makes them stick and forcing them will snap the bolts. Remove the nuts on the baffle and the baffle drops forward. It's two piece, so you can remove it through the door. Vacuum & clean the baffle and it's mounting area. I didn't bother to take off the rear and right side cast iron heat shields, as I figure more ash behind those is a good thing.

    Make sure the Primary flapper & it's air intake bi-metalllic coil is set and functioning correctly. If it's not then you are either not getting enough air or too much. Check your damper and make sure it is functioning correctly. Inspect the secondary air tube for burn through or warping.

    Check your flue & sweep it while your at it. Reassemble everything & you should be able to cruise between 420 and 500 degrees flue temp. This whole clean out should only take an hour or two. If you do break a bolt, just go to the hardware store & replace with an equal sized stainless steel one.

    Good luck, take some pictures and post them up on a new thread....we like pictures==c
  14. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

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    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    Oh, and the holes in the secondary are pretty big, I don't think there would be much gain by making them bigger. I do think that a second set of secondarys would be beneficial, but have not contemplated it much further yet. I don't think it would be a big deal to add them though and we would burn less wood with more efficient secondary's.
  15. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

    Joined:
    Nov 18, 2005
    Messages:
    48,149
    Loc:
    South Puget Sound, WA
    If I was contemplating a secondary mod on the H1 I would changing the location. The secondary tube is low in the firebox. I'd pipe it up along the sides and make a double tube rack under the baffle. I think this could be done with 1/" black iron pipe. You'd need a way to keep it solidly mounted and I'm not sure how well the baffle would handle the additional heat. Maybe put a sheet of vermiculite on top of the tubes?
  16. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

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    Nov 10, 2009
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    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    BG I agree, I don't like how low the secondary is in the Hearthstone design. I would use that tube(solid, no holes) for the preheat, turn it then run it up under the top of the baffle like you mentioned, then across....maybe branching into two smaller diameter tubes.

    I would love to be privy to the HS design team's notes that worked on this stove....have to wonder if they tried these things then discarded them for performance reasons. I can't help but think that we could improve the burn since it is easy to make one smoke if you don't pay attention.
  17. Defiant

    Defiant Vermont Castings Geek

    Joined:
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    2,112
    Loc:
    Old Lyme CT
    I found it, but the part where it is threaded was snapped off::-) ARGGHH!!!!!
  18. new england tommy

    new england tommy New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2013
    Messages:
    14
    thanks for the info. I think I will try a combo of shop vac and compressed air to empty the side air manifolds for now. The idea of snapping something in heating season doesnt sound too good. I never thought of cleaning above the baffle, I cleaned it from the top flue port when it was installed, I would think its still good. Is that problematic with this stove?

    My H1 has multiple personalities. I have great draft and dry wood. Sometimes it is a little smokey, or not, sometimes it eats wood, then sometimes not. Sometimes i have blue flames in the morning after 8 hours and sometimes just enough coals to stoke another. I think cleaning the side baffles should help.

    I agree that another set of secondaries would help. That baffle is probably 3/8, i think it should take the heat.
    Defiant, that bi metal damper lever may be salvagable. If it can get some new threads, having the coil closer to the stove may help its reaction time.
  19. new england tommy

    new england tommy New Member

    Joined:
    Feb 3, 2013
    Messages:
    14
    I can try to take a photo of the clean baffle. Or does anybody need to see something specific?
  20. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

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    368
    Loc:
    East TN.
    Is the coil intact or do you mean it was snapped off and gone? If not shoot me a pic & maybe it's salvageable.

    Tommy I forgot to ask is yours a rear flue or top flue? Mine is a top, so if you don't remove the baffle or block it off when sweeping, all the crap falls on top of it and could cause draft issues. Also, be careful with the compressed air as to not blow it into the crossover. A pick and vacuum should get it all just take your time.

    KK sorry man we are just hijacking this thread onto a train bound for ???:cool:
  21. kksalm

    kksalm Member

    Joined:
    Dec 21, 2007
    Messages:
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    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
    No worries on the hijack, it's turned into an awesome thread. I've gotten sidetracked on another project and I'm about to return to working on my 1979 H1. All the interesting posts in my absence certainly apply to what I'm about to do with my stove. As an interesting side note, I've had my stove for over a year now and my wife doesn't even know about it. It's been under this and that in my shop kind of disguised if she ever comes out to shoot pool or grab a paint brush. Looks like its about to be discovered and I'll be reminded of the "something comes in, something goes out" rule. The H1 is hard to pretend it isn't here. Thanks for continuing on with this thread.
    Defiant likes this.
  22. Motor7

    Motor7 Feeling the Heat

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    Loc:
    East TN.
    KK when you get going you are just gonna have to figure out the pic thing.......we want to see the re-build progress.
  23. kksalm

    kksalm Member

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    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
    You mean, like this?
    [​IMG]
  24. kksalm

    kksalm Member

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    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
    So far I can only show pictures one at a time
    [​IMG]
  25. kksalm

    kksalm Member

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    Loc:
    Kenai Alaska
    Another view. I think my intake was pre coil, I don't have the coil thing described in previous postings

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