Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums Pre-EPA (prior to 1988)' started by kksalm, Jan 22, 2013.
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The damage done
And one more
Messed up again, if this is the third same picture I'm giving up for now. If not, it's the view looking through the side door.
Footnotes to my previuos photo uploading dilemma. I recently downloaded the camera! app which is camera awesome to my iPad 2. Upon taking a picture in that app you have several options for sharing. I picked Photobucket and now can do a simple "one click" to move my photo onto Photobucket and to my account. I then have several options, one of which was copying from my Photobucket account and pasting the URL link onto this Hearth.com "post reply" site as suggested on this thread. The result is, I can now share a photo, one comment at a time.
Hey glad to see the pic's.
Interesting, your stove is way different then my '86. Is that a CAT on top of the stove? If so someone had to have retrofitted it since HI's never had a CAT. What year is yours? Also, yes yours does not have the rear primary tube nor the piping for it that runs around the bottom of the firebox. You primary must be the spin wheels on both sides.
Looks like all you need is a new baffle & secondary tube. I would not worry too much about that heat shield on the back wall since those cracks won't hurt it at all. I really don't think the firebox is "shot"...just needs a little work.
The plate on the back says 7/10/79. I found the CAT fitted loosely in the hole In the curved portion of the casting that directs the fire forward which is badly warped. This is a picture looking down the flue from above the stove.
Yeah I saw the CAT "pocket" with the shield below it. I think that stove had a very industrious previous owner. I wonder if the CAT aided in the overheat demise of those parts?
I thought it might be the opposite. The secondary tube ruptured and started acting like a blow torch in the center of the firebox. I've seen this happen in another non-cat H1.
That makes sense to me BG.. With a good secondary burn I would imagine a tube could like behave like a blow torch and burn steel..
yes, yours if certainly pre bi metal coil flapper control and primary intake. It the only intake the knob?
M7, I have the top oval flue outlet.
I will get to pictures this weekend during the storm of all storms.
There's an intake on the side that the intake for the pipe is on. There's also an intake on the side loading door.
Three in all. Now that I'm cleaning it up a bit I'm back to my original idea. This is basically a very large box made of soapstone crying out to contain an efficient modern EPA approved wood stove. So far the measurement inside is at least 27 inches wide by 18 inches deep. I'll let you know the height as soon as if finish the dismantle. It's one large soapstone box, with flue.
Best regards and thanks for the input.
KK a CAT in there would be neat. I don't see why you can't do that it's just going to take some thought.
For the CAT stove guys, do most of them have secondaries or just CAT's?
Tommy, pull down that baffle & clean behind it when you get a chance.
Is that really a Hearthstone 1? I don't recognize the model.
The tag on the back shows thw model as simply Hearthstone. I can't make out a 1 as its a little faded. It doesn't look like there's enough space in the box for the 1 either.
What is the build date? Does it say 1979 or 1970 ?I can't tell.If it's 1970 it may pre-date the 1 as we know it.
It's identical to my HI except for the Primary tube & flapper in the rear. The easiest way to tell is to count the stones across the top of the stove:
m7, I will get in there and clean it. I let it cool for a little the other day to clean out the side manifolds. I need a stroger vacuum to clean it all out. This is certainly one drawback of the stove, ash is sure to get in there and rob air capacity and performance.
Kk, i get adding an efficiant stove inside but it would seem to limit the fuel capacity. What about adding a late model set of secondaries.? In my opinion the bi metal coil controls air well, but it shouldnt really choke down because it will get a little smokey. If it had a better air induction, I think it would burn cleaner.
Good looking HI Tommy! Tap those door hinge pins down every now and then so the door does not fall off expectantly & get damaged. The stone on mine is very plain compared to others here...I really prefer those dark stones better. Anyway, this spring I am re-painting the frame black. The brown changed color so much it now looks like primer and it's wearing off all over the place.
Thanks to Defiant, my 3 year search for the bi-metallic coil primary control is over! The threads were snapped off so I just welded a bolt on the shaft, straightened out the bracket & coil then installed it on my H1. Now I just have to wait a few days until it gets cold again so I can do the final adjustments while the stove is running(almost 60 here today).
If your noticing that the primary inlet flapper look different, it is. That part is also not available so I fabbed one up out of Stainless Steel..... I think it's better then the original one
I'll update it's performance later.........THANKS JOE!
I'm still playing with the bi-metal control, but it's almost perfect. An unexpected benifit is that the glass cleared up and is staying clean. This means that the stove no longer in my manual intake control gets choked back anymore. As soon as it cools down the primary opens up allowing more air in for cleaner burns.
This was a re-load on coals after a 8 hr burn. I threw some large Hemlock splits in and this is a video what was going on 15 min later at 506 flue temp:
Pretty cool secondary action eh?
And if anyone can tell me how to imbed this video it would be appreciated. I tried all the links provided by Photobucket here & none worked.
I can imbed a standard pic no problem:
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