My Huskee 22 not firing ?

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Beer Belly

Minister of Fire
Oct 26, 2011
2,232
Connecticut
My buddy picked it up to use yesterday.....I was just using it Tuesday. He got it to his house, and it wouldn't fire.....put in a new plug....it's getting Air, Spark, and fuel, and gives a slight backfire at the end of a pull on the rope....not even close to coming to life. We figure one of two possibilities....key way broke, timing off....or bad gas, which is unlikely IMO, he just ran some thru his mower without a problem, although this gas was bought earlier this summer. It's at the shop, bought it 1/16/2012, might be warranty, not sure....anyone care to guess whats up ?
 
I'd think flywheel key broke and flywheel re-wedged a half inch or so out of timing.
 
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The verdict is in......MOTOR BLOWN <>........it has about 50 hours max on it....only problem, I was suppose to change the oil after 5 hours:oops: ooops.....motor is supposedly rare, Briggs and Stratton no help on finding a replacement....looking at $450 to replace (including labor)....I'm likely gonna be sleeping in my work shed for the next week....Wifey not happy:mad:
 
This sounds highly suspect to me. Usually 'blown motors' happen suddenly in a large way when the motor is running, or following a period of deteriorating performance (increasing smoking & oil consumption, and noisyness). Just suddenly not starting is weird of a 'blown motor'. They should give details on exactly what is broken?
 
I was told piston scored, cylinder scored, bearing and crank badly worn....the engine was at least never low on oil, I always checked it, and only needed a slight top off once.....I will be getting the old motor back to do my own rebuild if it is cost effective, but going for a new motor on the splitter. In the shops defense, I never asked about rebuild, just asked about replacement.
 
A couple of things come to mind, debris left in the engine from assembly or something wrong with the oil splash wiper. Another item to check is the cooling fan assembly. It may not be common knowledge, but oil's main job is in thermal control- 70% cooling and 30% lubrication. I suggest a Honda or Subaru Robin replacement. Sorry about about the B&S that went to lunch so soon.
 
A couple of things come to mind, debris left in the engine from assembly or something wrong with the oil splash wiper. Another item to check is the cooling fan assembly. It may not be common knowledge, but oil's main job is in thermal control- 70% cooling and 30% lubrication. I suggest a Honda or Subaru Robin replacement. Sorry about about the B&S that went to lunch so soon.
We're just gonna stay with the B&S on the splitter....but you can bet, this will be my last B&S product
 
I wonder what their definition of "blown" is. Mine is when you have more parts than when you started (broken). Theirs sounds different.
 
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I know very little about log splitters but Huskee 22 ton shows a Briggs 190cc engine, which can be had for $175 new. What makes the log splitter version so much more expensive?
 
The backfire sounds like a valve/spring broke or flywheel key broke.
The replacement plug was correct size I'd assume - these aren't zero clearance engines - I had my fingers crossed yesterday after replacing all the plugs and ignition modules on my Northstar yesterday, all went smooth though
 
I know very little about log splitters but Huskee 22 ton shows a Briggs 190cc engine, which can be had for $175 new. What makes the log splitter version so much more expensive?
$450 probably includes labor & shipping
 
I know very little about log splitters but Huskee 22 ton shows a Briggs 190cc engine, which can be had for $175 new. What makes the log splitter version so much more expensive?
I was told by the repair shop that the shaft made it an oddball....7/8 with a 2 3/4 inch length....or something like that....called Jacks small engines, and they said there were none to be had, and could not find a substitute in another brand, so if the shop found one, grab it. Called Briggs and Straton, and they would not talk to me about supply, they only sell to dealers.
 
I wonder what their definition of "blown" is. Mine is when you have more parts than when you started (broken). Theirs sounds different.
Their word was the motor was "shot"....to me, that translates to "blown";em
 
The backfire sounds like a valve/spring broke or flywheel key broke.
The replacement plug was correct size I'd assume - these aren't zero clearance engines - I had my fingers crossed yesterday after replacing all the plugs and ignition modules on my Northstar yesterday, all went smooth though
Identical Spark Plug.....I was hoping it was a broken key, but the shop sez that only happens on lawn engines when you hit something
 
I can't see a motor with what they say is wrong with it, just going from working good to not starting all at once. There should have been smoking and deteriorating performance - IMO.

Pretty easy to do a compression check & even look at the top end for yourself - if you get the motor back. Would love to see some pics of this.
 
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I was told by the repair shop that the shaft made it an oddball....7/8 with a 2 3/4 inch length

3 5/32" seems the normal shaft. So, you need less shaft and they give you the shaft!
 
3 5/32" seems the normal shaft. So, you need less shaft and they give you the shaft!
Obvious jokes about my shaft being too long withheld... it's easy to shorten 'em.

I am also suspect about a motor that sounds / runs fine one day, and is "shot" the next, with no runtime in-between. The only thing that was done to this motor was transporting, which should translate to something vibrating loose. If this thing were older, I'd be telling you to check the points. Simply put, if it's so badly damaged from failing to change the oil that it won't even start, you should have seen some MAJOR symptoms during your last run.
 
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I can't see a motor with what they say is wrong with it, just going from working good to not starting all at once. There should have been smoking and deteriorating performance - IMO.

Pretty easy to do a compression check & even look at the top end for yourself - if you get the motor back. Would love to see some pics of this.

Obvious jokes about my shaft being too long withheld... it's easy to shorten 'em.

I am also suspect about a motor that sounds / runs fine one day, and is "shot" the next, with no runtime in-between. The only thing that was done to this motor was transporting, which should translate to something vibrating loose. If this thing were older, I'd be telling you to check the points. Simply put, if it's so badly damaged from failing to change the oil that it won't even start, you should have seen some MAJOR symptoms during your last run.
I agree.....you'd think there would be some sort of sign. Something tells me they tore the motor apart, and never checked the key, and assumed the scoring was the issue......I'm not one to argue, just get it running, and get it back in service.....and I will post pictures
 
Imagine if this scenario was reversed and the friend just returned the unit back to Beer Belly?
 
That's the right attitude to have Beer Belly. I usually take the route of losing a few nights sleep, fuming over stuff like this, which doesn't do anyone good.
 
Imagine if this scenario was reversed and the friend just returned the unit back to Beer Belly?
It wouldn't make a bit of difference to me. When I lend something out, I run the risk of it coming back damaged....if it does, oh well, not a big deal......on a side note, anything of big value (above $1,000), I will lend out to very few trusted people....these few people, I know will respect the equipment.
 






The movie clip......
 
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