My new Country Striker S160 stove pictures! And more newbie questions!

[kevinmoelk]

Howdy y'all. Well I finally got the camera and new computer incompatibility problem worked out. I've made a public gallery so everyone can see.

http://pictures.aol.com/galleries/w...s.do&state=albumId=21374.1445.1165619139107.1

Here are the descriptions:

1-4 Pictures of the misc. chimney and stove pipe parts
5- Looking down into the chimney
6-7 Stove pipe. Looks like there is a slip joint there?
8- Looking at chimney piece. You can see where it has been painted. I believe this portion came into the house. You can also see the brackets about 1 1/2 feet down the chimney.
9- Top of stove with the fiber blanket stuff. Should the blanket be moved all the way to the back end of the stove?
10- Air control knob. If you look closely you can see that the 1st notch is visible roughly 1/4" out, but it's pushed all the way shut. Is that correct? Or does it need some adjustment so the mark lines up with the body of the stove when fully shut?
11- Door gasket. To trim or not to trim the fray?
12- General picture of fire box
13- Fire box, right side, looking up towards secondary burn tubes
14- Fire box, left side, looking up towards secondary burn tubes
15- Fire box looking up at secondary burn assembly
16- Another shot of the chimney and stove pipe stuff.

Chatted with BeGreen and Roospike about the chimney last night. Thanks fellas. If you look at picture no.8 you can see how it's painted at the top. You can also see where the brackets attached on the pipe. Brackets are in the foreground in pictures 1-4. I think the previous installation used the brackets upside down and where the chimney came through to the inside of the home it was painted. You can also see the flimsy beauty ring that finished off the inside.

Also on picture no.8, is this the correct end termination? This is where the stove pipe was simply screwed to the chimney. Is that right?

I'm curious too as to the first piece of chimney pipe. It's the fourth one over from the left pictures 1-4, and by itself 6 & 7. Near the top there is a collar and some screws. It appears that this piece is telescoping? Can that be?

-Kevin

EDIT: Added more pictures to the album, but for some reason I couldn't get the order correct. Aggrrh!

 

[kevinmoelk]

Bump. Added more pictures and it screwed up the previous descriptions order. In any case, I really need some advice on the questions in the first post. Thanks.

-Kevin

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

it all looks right to me.
double wall interior pipe has to telescope, you cant cut it.
that adapter is probably not perfect, but functional. THat brand of pipe should make a "smokeless" drip adapter. What brand is it again?

 

[kevinmoelk]

Ah, thanks MSG.

It's a Metalbestos SS-2 chimney.

It looks like the stove pipe just jams up onto that collar (on the chimney section painted with brackets). But it's my understanding that one needs a ceiling support box? If so, then what is that damned collar doing on there?

Would that collar interfere with putting it into the ceiling support box? Or do I need another piece(s)?

-Kevin

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

you have a alternative installation to the box. the roof support does the same thing and the trim collar trims it out. Its legit.
you need a 6t-dsac to make the inside chimney connection part right.

 

[kevinmoelk]

you have a alternative installation to the box. the roof support does the same thing and the trim collar trims it out. Its legit.
you need a 6t-dsac to make the inside chimney connection part right.

Alright, I'm beginning to understand. You are correct sir, the collar piece is indeed separate. Looks like it has been trimmed considerably however. The part new measures 15+ inches, and the piece I have has been cut down to 1 7/8 inches. In other words, the collar will only go into the stove pipe 1 7/8 inches. Is that adequate? Or should I purchase a new one?

So the roof bracket can be flipped upside down and used in place of the ceiling support box? Cool. But now do I need to support the chimney at the roof line? Should I purchase a second bracket set up? Or will the flashing alone be enough to keep the chimney from rocking side to side? Also in the same line of thought, is one bracket set enough to support the entire weight of the chimney?

And another question, lol. When it's stated 2" from combustibles, is that measured from the ID or the OD?

Thanks a million.

-Kevin

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

you should purchase the part i posted, and take the hommade adapter out completly, http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/83420/icn/20-088302/selkirk/6tdsac.htm

yes you will need a support above the roof if your over 4' out of the roof. Do you have a flat celing or a catherdral celing?

 

[kevinmoelk]

you should purchase the part i posted, and take the hommade adapter out completly, http://www.usahardware.com/inet/shop/item/83420/icn/20-088302/selkirk/6tdsac.htm

yes you will need a support above the roof if your over 4' out of the roof. Do you have a flat celing or a catherdral celing?

Okay. It doesn't look like the adapter is homemade, just that it's been severely trimmed. I suspected 1 7/8 inches would not suffice, but I thought I'd ask anyway.

I wasn't referring to the above the roof kit, but rather at the roof. Would I need to have another of the same bracket set at the roof line? I suppose the above the roof kit will also work. I'm not yet sure if I'm going to be 4 feet above or not.

My ceiling is flat, standard 8ft.

-Kevin

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

then you need a 6t-dsa and 6t-fsp OR a 6t-fspr. You have a cathedral kit.
You will not use that support or that adapter.

 

[kevinmoelk]

Thanks MSG. Okay, so I do indeed need a ceiling support box. And I can re-use the bracket at the roof line to help support the chimney correct?

Still, what about the combustible clearances? 2" to ID or measured from OD?

Thanks for your patience with a newbie.

-Kevin

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

here is the catalog. http://www.selkirkinc.com/index.html
you will need a insulation shield as well.6T-IAS

you can use the bracket at the roof line as well, it wont hurt.
That trim collar you have should be eliptical, wich is why it wont work well for the flat celing. You could make what you have work, [legaly] you just need to make a insulation shield for the attic. The support box would probably look better and be easier to install.
the 2" is from the OD.

 

[kevinmoelk]

here is the catalog. http://www.selkirkinc.com/index.html
you will need a insulation shield as well.6T-IAS

you can use the bracket at the roof line as well, it wont hurt.
That trim collar you have should be eliptical, wich is why it wont work well for the flat celing. You could make what you have work, [legaly] you just need to make a insulation shield for the attic. The support box would probably look better and be easier to install.
the 2" is from the OD.

Sorry to be a pebble in your shoe MSG. Thanks for all your help. I've looked at the catalog before, but just trying to get some real world experience from the forum here. I don't want to do this installation twice or be unsatisfied with the asthetics of it just to save $100 bucks. I'll take your advice (and others too), get the ceiling support box and the dripless adapter. Still deciding on whether I want to build my own attic insulation guard or purchase one. Either way I'll have an attic insulation guard also.

I'll take the bracket and use it at the roof line for added support, like you say it can't hurt and we've got some very hard winds out here on a fairly regular basis.

Thanks again for all the advice MSG.

-Kevin

 

[MountainStoveGuy]

no pebbles as far as i can see. Im here to help.

 

[Elderthewelder]

my gasket is frayed in the exact same spot as yours, looks the same, man that is odd, makes me wonder if some sort of factory defect thing, anyway I just left it as is

My draft control rod is like that as well, when all the way closed, I still have a little over 1 notch showing, there is alot of slop in the thing, once you fire it up and play with it you will figure out where it works best. I like it at about 3 notch's showing, 2 notch's when I burn dimensional lumber such as 4x4's

as for the blanket, here is what it says in my manual
"be sure the ceramic blanket is lying flat on the bricks so as not to block the flue, use a ruler or piece of kindling to reach back over the blanket to be sure it is flat on top of the baffle bricks all the way back"
I already told you my thoughts and what I did with my blanket

 

[kevinmoelk]

I think the gasket fray is where the two ends meet. I'll probably just leave it alone. You can't even see it when the door is shut. If I cut it, it will probably unravel on me, lol. Good to know about the draft rod. I thought mine might be way out of adjustment seeing as it's so sloppy. I guess that's how they all are. It does open and close the panel for the air intake so I guess I'll leave that alone too.

The ceramic blanket? Well, I'll have to get the stove going and see how it does. I'm inclined to leave it alone unless it presents a problem. Thanks for the input Elder.

-Kevin