My Next Chainsaw Will Be A...

[BlankBlankBlank]

...STIHL. I got offered an entire Silver Maple from a local home owner who had it taken down in his backyard by a professional service. The service gave the home owner a super deal to just drop the entire tree in his back yard. While the tree service cut the brush, chipped, and hauled it, they left the entire trunk in two pieces. Also, they left all the limbs great than 3".

Well, the home owner offered me the tree. He even rented a 24" Stihl MS 361 over this past weekend. His plan was to buck the trunk into 16" rounds for me. Well, he had a hard time running the saw. So, when I came to pick up wood on Sunday afternoon, the trunk was still in one piece.

The home owner offered to rent the saw for me to use to cut the trunk. I think he might have been a little intimidated by the trunk because it was perched about shoulder high off the ground. Definitely a possible rolling issue. I reluctantly took him up on his offer, because I really hadn't planned bucking it out. I figured there was enough work simply hauling the wood home. But since I just cannot say no to wood, I grabbed the chainsaw and got to cuttin'.

So, today, I cut the trunk using the rented Stihl MS 361 with a 24" bar. I loved it!! The chain needed almost no tension adjustment the entire day. Cuts were clean. Easy to get flat cuts on logs greater than 24". This saw is solid. A real workhorse. I sure wish that I had purchased a Stihl instead of my Echo.

The first couple photos show the main trunks prior to my cutting. The third photo shows a series of cuts roughly half way through. The fourth photo shows a nice flush cut. I love how that 24" bar makes getting straight, smooth cuts so easy. The last photo...the powerhouse...MS 361.

Now, I need to figure out which Stihl to save for. Do I get a professional saw, such as MS 362 or MS 441? Or do I opt for a mid-range Stihl, such as MS 311 or MS 391?

I'd like to run a 24" bar but be able to change to a 20" on occasion.

 

[punchy]

i recently bought a ms362. i have not used it as much as would like due to overtime lately, but when i did i loved it.

 

[Blue2ndaries]

I bought a MS362 this past June. My only regret was not getting that saw sooner. I never knew what I was missing, struggling to get thru 20" white oak trunks w/my MS250. The MS362 is a light saber! Was making cuts in about 1/4 the time.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I bought a MS362 this past June. My only regret was not getting that saw sooner. I never knew what I was missing, struggling to get thru 20" white oak trunks w/my MS250. The MS362 is a light saber! Was making cuts in about 1/4 the time.

Wow! That's quite an improvement. Did you get the standard MS 362 or the MS 362 C-Q?

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

i recently bought a ms362. i have not used it as much as would like due to overtime lately, but when i did i loved it.

The standard MS 362 or the MS 362 C-Q?

 

[TreePointer]

I'd like to run a 24" bar but be able to change to a 20" on occasion.

That statement comfortably fits the 70cc saw.

But, but, the 361 did fine with the 24" bar, you say. Ah, but you were cutting silver maple. Try that in oak.

A 60cc saw is fine wearing a 20" bar most of the time and occasionally a 24/25" bar. Also the 361 oiler is stingy, so 25" is the limit (power issues aside).

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I'd like to run a 24" bar but be able to change to a 20" on occasion.

That statement comfortably fits the 70cc saw.

But, but, the 361 did fine with the 24" bar, you say. Ah, but you were cutting silver maple. Try that in oak.

A 60cc saw is fine wearing a 20" bar most of the time and occasionally a 24/25" bar. Also the 361 oiler is stingy, so 25" is the limit (power issues aside).

TreePointer, thanks for the tips. I must say that the 361 generally performed great. It bogged down once in a while, especially as the chain dulled. I could tell that a few more cc's would have been helpful on a few cuts. But, I'm not a professional tree feller. I'm a wood burner. So, I could probably get by with a 60 cc saw.

The 70 cc saw would be the 441 which has a price tag a little higher than I'd care to spend. Then again, it's a buy once kind of investment. Right?

 

[Blue2ndaries]

I bought a MS362 this past June. My only regret was not getting that saw sooner. I never knew what I was missing, struggling to get thru 20" white oak trunks w/my MS250. The MS362 is a light saber! Was making cuts in about 1/4 the time.

Wow! That's quite an improvement. Did you get the standard MS 362 or the MS 362 C-Q?

I just posted a resp. to this other thread re: my MS362 running it side by side w/my MS250 on 20" white oak this past summer.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83398/P15/

I got the regular MS362. I had heard that there was a recall on the C-Q model as the extra brake mechanism had issues w/engaging & disengaging. I opted for one less failure mode.

 

[blacktail]

Nice looking wood!

 

[MasterMech]

A MS361 is a wonderful way to get introduced to a Stihl!

If you're intent is to run a 24" bar most of the time in big trunks, then a 441 or 460 is your saw. A 362 is very capable of running a 24" bar but it really shines with a 20" instead. If you said most of the wood you find is 20" or less and occasionally you need a 24" bar, then I'd say the 362 is perfect.

The mid-range saws are good but again, to run a 24" bar as your primary bar, you're in pro-saw territory there. The 391 is about on par with a 362 spec wise and that's as big as Stihl goes in a mid-range machine.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I bought a MS362 this past June. My only regret was not getting that saw sooner. I never knew what I was missing, struggling to get thru 20" white oak trunks w/my MS250. The MS362 is a light saber! Was making cuts in about 1/4 the time.

Wow! That's quite an improvement. Did you get the standard MS 362 or the MS 362 C-Q?

I just posted a resp. to this other thread re: my MS362 running it side by side w/my MS250 on 20" white oak this past summer.
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/83398/P15/

I got the regular MS362. I had heard that there was a recall on the C-Q model as the extra brake mechanism had issues w/engaging & disengaging. I opted for one less failure mode.

Thanks for the info. Nice post. I suspect your 250 is comparable in operation to my Echo. The specs are similar too.

I really like Stihl now that I've tried it. Sure wish I would have had this experience prior to buying my Echo. Did I say that already? LOL

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

Nice looking wood!

Thanks.

 

[Blue2ndaries]

Thanks for the info. Nice post. I suspect your 250 is comparable in operation to my Echo. The specs are similar too.

I really like Stihl now that I've tried it. Sure wish I would have had this experience prior to buying my Echo. Did I say that already? LOL

I actually did a lot of reading on this forum re: the 361 and then the 362 came out and decided to get that. Again, I didn't know what I was missing and I was almost getting angry w/myself thinking about how much time and energy I wasted trying to buck up big trunks like the oak and big Douglas fir (30-48") all these years with the MS250. Anyway, water under the bridge...I REALLY enjoy using the 362 , it IS heavy though but makes up for its weight in less effort to cut, if that makes sense.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

A MS361 is a wonderful way to get introduced to a Stihl!

If you're intent is to run a 24" bar most of the time in big trunks, then a 441 or 460 is your saw. A 362 is very capable of running a 24" bar but it really shines with a 20" instead. If you said most of the wood you find is 20" or less and occasionally you need a 24" bar, then I'd say the 362 is perfect.

The mid-range saws are good but again, to run a 24" bar as your primary bar, you're in pro-saw territory there. The 391 is about on par with a 362 spec wise and that's as big as Stihl goes in a mid-range machine.

It's a tough call, MasterMech. I get a fair amount of wood through a couple of tree service guys I know. They like to give me the big rounds because I have a hydraulic splitter. They take the small stuff for their shop. Sometimes it's bucked out to 18", but mostly bucked out to random lengths needing some trimming. Other times I get a couple of trunks dumped in my driveway.

I guess I'm looking for a saw to run a 24" bar for the big stuff when it comes and run my Echo on the smaller stuff. The dilema is in the price tag. I like the 441. The list price is $880 with a 20" bar. A saw with 24" bar is not listed online. I guess I'll just have to go to the dealer to figure out what they can do for me. Perhaps they'll have a used saw?

The other consideration is that I don't do this for a living. I do it for the wood heat. Maybe I'll look at the 362 with a 24" bar for big stuff and keep my Echo for the smaller stuff?

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

Thanks for the info. Nice post. I suspect your 250 is comparable in operation to my Echo. The specs are similar too.

I really like Stihl now that I've tried it. Sure wish I would have had this experience prior to buying my Echo. Did I say that already? LOL

I actually did a lot of reading on this forum re: the 361 and then the 362 came out and decided to get that. Again, I didn't know what I was missing and I was almost getting angry w/myself thinking about how much time and energy I wasted trying to buck up big trunks like the oak and big Douglas fir (30-48") all these years with the MS250. Anyway, water under the bridge...I REALLY enjoy using the 362 , it IS heavy though but makes up for its weight in less effort to cut, if that makes sense.

That is one thing that I noticed this morning about the 361: it's heavy! But, as you said, "less effort to cut." I'm going to head over to the dealer this week or next to find out what they can do for me. Maybe I'll find a used saw that will fill the bill?

 

[Blue2ndaries]

That is one thing that I noticed this morning about the 361: it's heavy! But, as you said, "less effort to cut." I'm going to head over to the dealer this week or next to find out what they can do for me. Maybe I'll find a used saw that will fill the bill?

My dealer was willing to deal; I got about 12% off MSRP. But again, I've bought over $5k worth of outdoor equipment from them, so they always cut me some slack. My dealer has been great for service and parts which I think is just as important as a "great price". Another dealer 40min away was actually willing to do $21 less on the 362, but I didn't want to go that far for service.

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

That is one thing that I noticed this morning about the 361: it's heavy! But, as you said, "less effort to cut." I'm going to head over to the dealer this week or next to find out what they can do for me. Maybe I'll find a used saw that will fill the bill?

My dealer was willing to deal; I got about 12% off MSRP. But again, I've bought over $5k worth of outdoor equipment from them, so they always cut me some slack. My dealer has been great for service and parts which I think is just as important as a "great price". Another dealer 40min away was actually willing to do $21 less on the 362, but I didn't want to go that far for service.

Good info. I'll tell them to sharpen their pencil!

 

[HittinSteel]

I doubt you would ever regret ponying up the extra coin for a 362/441

 

[BlankBlankBlank]

I know my next saw is a Stihl. I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl. Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.

 

[HittinSteel]

I know my next saw is a Stihl. I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl. Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.

I've noticed a lot of people say that, but having owned stihls and huskys its never made any sense to me. I prefer pro grade huskys to stihl.....but that doesn't mean the stihls are not nice as well. They compare very evenly and a choice between the two in the pro class becomes simple preference by the buyer

 

[firefighterjake]

I know my next saw is a Stihl. I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl. Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.

Probably depends on the model . . . and honestly plastic doesn't bother me . . . today's plastics aren't exactly Bakelite.

 

[HittinSteel]

I know my next saw is a Stihl. I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl. Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.

Probably depends on the model . . . and honestly plastic doesn't bother me . . . today's plastics aren't exactly Bakelite.

and it keeps the weight down!

 

[lukem]

I know my next saw is a Stihl. I do wonder how the Husqvarna compare to Stihl. Notice the Husqvarna have more plastic.

I have the same saw pictured in the OP. I love it. Picked it up used for $300 with a new 20" bar and chain. The Stihl brand chains (when properly sharpened) are among the best, so that probably had a lot to do with the operation of the saw.

I have run a couple comparable Huskys (pro-saws my buddy has...don't know my Husky model numbers) and they were good too. They don't feel as plasticy as the ones you seen in Home Depot or TSC. I don't think you can go wrong with either....it will probably come down to which dealer is closer and you feel more comfortable with.

On a side I note, I fear you are in the early stages of CAD which was contracted from operating a pro-saw. Sadly, there is no cure. It would be a good idea to sit down with your wife, explain your condition, and that multiple chainsaw purchases, chainsaw dinner conversation, and hours of internet research on chainsaws are imminent. Your condition will exhibit a rapid "degradation" in advance of your first purchase...and slowly continue until you turn into Jay. Best of luck.

 

[ISeeDeadBTUs]

Not only was the guy giving you the wood, he was going to cut it up for you?!? That, was a deal!!

I've never run a Husq, though they seem to have a larger market share around here. My next saw will stihl be a 660. But honestly, the 440 can hold up longer cutting Oak than I can :red:


Nice wood score!!

 

[Flatbedford]

I just ran my 036, which I assume is similar to the 361/362, with my new 25" full chisel setup in some Red Oak for the first time yesterday. It was plenty powerful and cut very nicely. Did it bog down a couple times? Yes. Could I prevent that by being a little less aggressive and letting the saw cut at its own pace? You bet. For a pro tree cutter 25" is probably too much bar for this saw. For a firewood cutter it is probably just fine to have the bigger bar handy for big stuff and run a 20" most of the time like I do. I also have a 16" bar for the saw and while it is probably a major cutting machine with it, I doubt I will use it often.

CAD can easily be contracted by operating a pro saw. I was happy with my 029 and 20" bar for 15 years. Then I ran a friend's 036. I talked him into selling it to me and now I want another, bigger pro saw! Owners of mid range saws should avoid using pro saws, unless they are ready to buy one.