We usually talk about putting splits NS and EW. Sometimes a diagonal is better. For example, tonight I started a fire with some large splits on the bottom. They were too long for NS, but fit quite nicely SE. The important thing is to have some space between them for a good draft. Placed some medium sized splits EW, a super cedar on the middle lowest split, and some kindling on top. Off to the races. The next batch of wood also fit better NE and then crosswise SW rather than the usual directions. Be flexible. Have fun!
NE-SW or NW-SE
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PapaDave
Minister of Fire
I've been doing some experimenting this year.
If the split won't fit n/s, I load some that do, then use the longer ones on top of the n/s going e/w.
I've had fires with the bottom layer n/s, then the next layer e/w, and also the opposite while also filling smaller pieces in wherever they'll fit.
I've got the fire going right now with 2 splits going from s/e to n/w, with another on top of those going from e/s/e to w/n/w.
How's that for flexible?
If the split won't fit n/s, I load some that do, then use the longer ones on top of the n/s going e/w.
I've had fires with the bottom layer n/s, then the next layer e/w, and also the opposite while also filling smaller pieces in wherever they'll fit.
I've got the fire going right now with 2 splits going from s/e to n/w, with another on top of those going from e/s/e to w/n/w.
How's that for flexible?
Any way it will fit but mostly N-S. I just cut up 12-15 pallets today and there is nothing pretty about how they will fit.
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
Sometimes if I want a big fast fire, I will alternate layers (crib) on the diagonal. Other times I might prop one end of a split on top of the other to give it some more air.
remkel
Minister of Fire
With a top loader, I do not have many optionson how the wood is loaded- I drop one end in, see how it falls, adjust that log, then load the next. I do not send logs to the resize pile, I send them to the fire pit pile.
NH_Wood
Minister of Fire
Diagonal would work for me if I didn't need much heat (small load), but I'd never load that way for real heat - I wouldn't be able to pack the box tight. Cheers!
SteveKG
Minister of Fire
HotCoals
Minister of Fire
Hanko
Minister of Fire
LLigetfa
Minister of Fire
Well... I had my survey map in hand when I built my house and I used a compass to turn the house 10 degrees so I know *exactly* what direction my stove and therefore my wood is oriented.HotCoals said:
It's not really all that complicated. Mind you lots of folks don't know which way is North and need a GPS to guide them. Oldtimers like me can tell by the moss on the trees.
PapaDave
Minister of Fire
woodchip
Minister of Fire
I always rake the coals towards the middle, then pop a couple NS either side, and one EW right across the top near the rear. Seems to work ok, but I have been burning small stuff the last couple of days as it been mild, and have needed to conserve the decent stuff.
Not sure if I could do a couple of diagonals without something sticking up in the air and diverting the secondary burn all over the place. I'll have a try tomorrow out of curiosity...........
Not sure if I could do a couple of diagonals without something sticking up in the air and diverting the secondary burn all over the place. I'll have a try tomorrow out of curiosity...........
Kenster
Minister of Fire
Diagonal placement seems like you're wasting space.
If it was too long to fit (rarely happens), I'd set it aside for a re-cut. No wood that is good enough to burn in the stove will ever go in a fire pit. I've got several acres of thick woods where I can pick up all the trash wood I would ever need for a fire pit. I work too hard for my stove wood to burn it outside just for fun.
If it was too long to fit (rarely happens), I'd set it aside for a re-cut. No wood that is good enough to burn in the stove will ever go in a fire pit. I've got several acres of thick woods where I can pick up all the trash wood I would ever need for a fire pit. I work too hard for my stove wood to burn it outside just for fun.
cmnash
New Member
Now wait a minute.........are we talking magnetic or true north ? If true is used, do we all know our local variation before we go setting the splits in with reckless abandon ?
Also, but no less important, has the compass been swung to account for magnetic deviation ? (a big problem in cast iron stoves)
Also, but no less important, has the compass been swung to account for magnetic deviation ? (a big problem in cast iron stoves)
SteveKG
Minister of Fire
And the other evening, on NPR, I heard that the pole is currently moving and causing airport runways to be re-designated [because they are named according to their magnetic heading].
So, all the wood burners who worry about it are gonna have to relearn how to load their stoves. Man, what a hassle.
So, all the wood burners who worry about it are gonna have to relearn how to load their stoves. Man, what a hassle.
I have a forced air furnace oil/wood combo and about an hour before I lay down I load the hell out of it alternating NS EW layers, I let it get cookin then choke it down, usually I get vertical before the oil has to fire and I punched the flu yesterday she was pretty clean I've put about 4 cord thru so far, JMO
BrowningBAR
Minister of Fire
wingsfan
Feeling the Heat
Hanko said:
Same here. AND you are supposed to leave air gaps.I thought the fuller it is the more heat you got.lol
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