Need advice about the one inch spacer wall for wood stove installation
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8" to ceiling is the spec for DVL . Based on personal experience I think it is a good idea to increase the clearance for the ceiling above a horiz. section of double-wall connector. It still radiates a lot of heat.
Chinneysweep187
New Member
Folks seem to think that double-wall stove pipe is strongly insulated, it is not. There's only a thin air gap between the outer and inner layers. I have been surprised at wall temps measured even with double-wall 12" from a vertical wall. You still get quite a bit of heat radiated to the room from this pipe.
You will need to use a substitute like 2.5 or 3" drywall screws.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...t-Drywall-Screws-1-lb-Pack-212CDWS1/100180312
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...int-Drywall-Screw-5-lb-Pack-E3CDWS5/205461029
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Grip-Rit...t-Drywall-Screws-1-lb-Pack-212CDWS1/100180312
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt...int-Drywall-Screw-5-lb-Pack-E3CDWS5/205461029
Not ideal but the longest cement board screw is only 2 1/4" I think. If you are screwing directly into studs that will get you 3/4" purchase. If you need longer then I think drywall screws are the next best answer. Screw every 8" and it should be ok.
I would use deck screws over drywall screws for sure drywall screws are not very strong. There are also some screws with larger heads meant for framing that may work even better. But we typically just use deck screws with no issues.
I just built a shield for my stove, spaced 1" from the drywall. I used spax 3 1/4" multi mateirial screws. They seem to be holding great, spaced about 8" apart on 16" centers.
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
Do what I did. Install a copper heat shield. Easy to get your one inch air space, plus an air space at the bottom. I hammered my copper heat shields and it really looks good, the pic does not do it justice.
A lot less trouble than duroc and tile.
I don't know anyone else who has used copper for a heat shield but I can tell you it is extremely effective, because copper reflects almost 100 percent of the heat that strikes it. I can have my Jotul cranking at 650 degrees and can hold my hand against the shield, and it feels cool! Can't be over 85 degrees.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
Simon - that looks so nice with you true log house walls, that's something out of that barn wood builders show, you got any other pics of the house?
????? Copper conducts heat very well what do you mean it reflects almost 100% of the heat that hits it? You heat shield looks great and i am sure it works well but that statement was totally wrong. The only problem i wee with using copper is the price.
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
If it absorbs heat, why is the heat shield, standing 14 inches from a 650 degree stove, barely above room temp?
Have you ever used a copper heat shield?
As for cost, I am not sure. Haven't bought any copper lately, I know the cost is up. But you can install a copper heat shield in ten minutes.
How long does it take to install duroc and lay tile upon it?
Have you ever used a copper heat shield?
As for cost, I am not sure. Haven't bought any copper lately, I know the cost is up. But you can install a copper heat shield in ten minutes.
How long does it take to install duroc and lay tile upon it?
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Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
Yes I have many times
Because it dissipates that heat quickly to. Look at the properties of copper it is an excellent heat conductor
The last chimney i flashed in copper was almost $300 just in materials and that would not have done a heat shield. There was a time we did copper for heat shields and smoke shields but not anymore. We use painted steel now or occasionally stainless
Simonkenton
Minister of Fire
OK, you have a lot of experience with a copper heat shield. If it transmits heat, does it not transmit the heat right into the wall one inch behind it?
Is copper a good material for a heat shield?
I can do a test when I get back home. I would do a test right now but am an over the road truck driver and won't get home for a week.
I have a stove top thermometer but the simple thing to do would be to feel the log wall right behind the heat shield.
My Jotul is installed according to manufacturer's spec but that wall was getting quite warm so I installed the copper.
When I get back, even if it is a warm spring day I am going to fire up the Jotul and feel the wall behind the heat shield.
Is copper a good material for a heat shield?
I can do a test when I get back home. I would do a test right now but am an over the road truck driver and won't get home for a week.
I have a stove top thermometer but the simple thing to do would be to feel the log wall right behind the heat shield.
My Jotul is installed according to manufacturer's spec but that wall was getting quite warm so I installed the copper.
When I get back, even if it is a warm spring day I am going to fire up the Jotul and feel the wall behind the heat shield.
Sheet metal be it copper, stainless or plain galvanized is going to stay pretty cool behind a wood stove. We had regular sheetmetal about a foot away from the side and back of our 602 and it never got hot. It is reflecting the heat and cooled by convection of the air behind it which never got much above 80 or 85F. That is the nature and benefit of a wall shield.
No I never said it did. It stops the transfer of radiant heat and converts it into convective heat. That it totally different than "copper reflects almost 100 percent of the heat that strikes it"
Yes copper is a fine material for a heat shield like i said the only issue is the price.
And it will be much cooler due to the fact that that copper is blocking the radiant heat that it the reason for the 1"gap. If it was reflecting the heat as you say there would be no need for the gap.
CheapBassTurd
Minister of Fire
Metallurgically copper is second only to the gold/platinum/silver/lead family in heat
and electrical conduction.
Many safes have a copper wall that can't be cut with a torch due to it's excellent
dissipation even though it melts at under 2,000 degrees. An oxy/acl torch goes
to about 5,110 deg F/ 3,480 C.
The copper wall gives off it's heat so fast by sucking it to the coldest corners of the
sheet/ plate while radiating so quickly simulteneously it just doesn't get hot. Before
the stuff got expensive it was used in mass as being safer than lead and cheaper
than the precious metals.
Steel is fine. Next is galvanized steel, aluminum, tin, and copper (in order) being best
here in the practical world.
(I'm a newbie stover, so it felt really nice to contribute in the area where experienced
and educated, metal properties)
CheapMark
and electrical conduction.
Many safes have a copper wall that can't be cut with a torch due to it's excellent
dissipation even though it melts at under 2,000 degrees. An oxy/acl torch goes
to about 5,110 deg F/ 3,480 C.
The copper wall gives off it's heat so fast by sucking it to the coldest corners of the
sheet/ plate while radiating so quickly simulteneously it just doesn't get hot. Before
the stuff got expensive it was used in mass as being safer than lead and cheaper
than the precious metals.
Steel is fine. Next is galvanized steel, aluminum, tin, and copper (in order) being best
here in the practical world.
(I'm a newbie stover, so it felt really nice to contribute in the area where experienced
and educated, metal properties)
CheapMark
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