Need Advice After 3 Cracked Ribs

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T

Twig

New Member
May 12, 2010
33
Northern Minnesota
I joined this group awhile back and received some great information regarding wood furnaces. Well, shortly after my post I purchased the following: I'm not really a brand type guy, I usually just use what works, so please don't knock me for the chainsaws that I have. I hear Sthil is the best, but I picked up everything below for $75 and it was all brand new. My elderly neighbor passed away and his wife offered it to me.

1. Safety Hat with Ear Protection
2. Husqvarna 355 Nascar Edition 18"
3. Jonsered CS 2150 Turbo 18"

Anyhow, I need advice on chainsawing trees. It is something that I really enjoy, but sadly enough my first tree was may last. I was about 60' and looked like the perfect tree for firewood. It had been struct by lightening half way up. Well it started off fine, but halfway through the tree kinda slipped off the base and just popped. The base slammed me in the chest and I basically woke up in the ER.

So I'm writing because I basically promised my wife and kids that I would seek advice and try to find someone to show me how to properly take down a tree.

Thanks for reading
 
Twig said:
and try to find someone to show me how to properly take down a tree.
Click to expand...

Very good first step. Thousands of pounds standing straight in the air can do funny things when you make it fall. The ribs will heal my friend, but consider it a very stern warning of the dangers that can come with felling a tree.
 
A good way to do it would be to pick a couple of trees and tell a tree service that you just want a chop and drop in the woods. And tell them that you would like for them to show you how they do it while they are at it.
 
Lucky you woke up. It can and will happen again. You need to minimize the possibility continuously. Tree work is dangerous at every point.
 
start smaller ?

try to find a go-with relative / friend ?


My first trees were chopped down with an axe
I was probably 14
puling cedars out of the woods for a fence.


Then used hand saws.


They don't always do what you expect.
You can cut trees down for 40 years and still drop one on your own sail boat.
( three ribs may have hurt less)
 
60 foot tree was probably a bad tree to pick for the first one, start smaller. It sounds like you did not cut a notch on the side of the tree that you wanted it to fall. You make a straight cut about an inch or two up from the bottom of the notch on the opposite side of the tree. Before you drop a tree you must look at the tree and study it. There is typically a way the tree wants to fall based on lean and the number of branches on a side of a tree. You must make sure you have a clear area for it to land safely (otherwise they can get hung up, and often do). Do not cut the whole way through the tree, you should hear it cracking a few inches before it is cut through. If the tree starts pinching your bar you are most likely cutting it on the wrong side. You can use wedges to encourage it to start falling in the direction you want, although I have never needed to that. Be ready to move at a 45 degree angle away from the tree when you hear it cracking (they do not recommend running directly behind it in case you are dead wrong). You can also use a rope and a come-along to encourage a tree to fall where you want. Hope that helps, read some books and have someone who knows show you how it is done.
 
Sounds like you're lucky to be posting this, glad you're ok for the most part!

I'm not an expert by any means but I've found that I won't mess with a tree anymore unless it wants to fall the way I can safely cut it. I've had one turn 90* on me that didn't want to fall the way I wanted it to fall. After that I decided I would read the tree's better and figure out what way they want to fall, remember wind can also play a big roll. Tree's can do some goofy things so always have a good escape route. I cut a notch on the side I want the tree to fall and make my back cut about an inch above the bottom of the notch cut, then watch the tree as I'm cutting to see how it's reacting, you never want to cut all the way though you want to leave a hinge that will guide the tree down.

There is a book listed in this thread https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/58680/ that sounds like it'll be a good read.
 
Twig said:
I joined this group awhile back and received some great information regarding wood furnaces. Well, shortly after my post I purchased the following: I'm not really a brand type guy, I usually just use what works, so please don't knock me for the chainsaws that I have. I hear Sthil is the best, but I picked up everything below for $75 and it was all brand new. My elderly neighbor passed away and his wife offered it to me.

1. Safety Hat with Ear Protection
2. Husqvarna 355 Nascar Edition 18"
3. Jonsered CS 2150 Turbo 18"

Anyhow, I need advice on chainsawing trees. It is something that I really enjoy, but sadly enough my first tree was may last. I was about 60' and looked like the perfect tree for firewood. It had been struct by lightening half way up. Well it started off fine, but halfway through the tree kinda slipped off the base and just popped. The base slammed me in the chest and I basically woke up in the ER.

So I'm writing because I basically promised my wife and kids that I would seek advice and try to find someone to show me how to properly take down a tree.

Thanks for reading
Click to expand...




Do your kids a favor, take up Bomb desposal.
I took a head injury about a month ago doing storm clean up.
Been in pain ever since.
 
Twig said:
I joined this group awhile back and received some great information regarding wood furnaces. Well, shortly after my post I purchased the following: I'm not really a brand type guy, I usually just use what works, so please don't knock me for the chainsaws that I have. I hear Sthil is the best, but I picked up everything below for $75 and it was all brand new. My elderly neighbor passed away and his wife offered it to me.

1. Safety Hat with Ear Protection
2. Husqvarna 355 Nascar Edition 18"
3. Jonsered CS 2150 Turbo 18"

Anyhow, I need advice on chainsawing trees. It is something that I really enjoy, but sadly enough my first tree was may last. I was about 60' and looked like the perfect tree for firewood. It had been struct by lightening half way up. Well it started off fine, but halfway through the tree kinda slipped off the base and just popped. The base slammed me in the chest and I basically woke up in the ER.

So I'm writing because I basically promised my wife and kids that I would seek advice and try to find someone to show me how to properly take down a tree.

Thanks for reading
Click to expand...

Hey Twig, I'd like to hear more about just how you approached cutting this tree down, and exactly what happened, if you are comfortable sharing that info.

There are a lot of new people that come around here and I've recently seen another post about a nasty barberchair. Felling, logging, bucking, and general chainsaw use is dangerous work. Maybe if you share your story it might help another avoid catastrophe.
 
I find that once you stop looking up and start looking down your much better off. The dead stuff on the ground that mother nature cut down for ya is great. I never cut down a tree over 20-30' tall. Im skeert. Its all starting with lil trees and working your way and confidence up. And it seems that the bigger they are the more of a PIA they are.
 
Thrash44047 said:
I find that once you stop looking up and start looking down your much better off. The dead stuff on the ground that mother nature cut down for ya is great. I never cut down a tree over 20-30' tall. Im skeert. Its all starting with lil trees and working your way and confidence up. And it seems that the bigger they are the more of a PIA they are.
Click to expand...

The ones that are down are my favorite trees to cut up. But it is interesting to cut larger standing trees...I have learned though that no matter how many you have cut don't get over confident to a point that you become a bit careless. A neighbor had a decent sized cherry he wanted down and the wood would be mine for the effort...so I got right to it. I probably didn't study the tree enough to realize there were some heavier branches mosty to one side of the tree. Cut my notch feeling confident on where it would land and then to my initial surprise I was considerably off...fortunatley it as in a field so no damage done.
To me, that was my "wake up" call...I now look over every tree REAL GOOD and look at it again to be sure...before making my cuts. I also am very careful to ID my escape path and to be sure there are no obstacles that will trip me up when getting the heck out of there!
I have the utmost respect for the power and inherent danger of my saws and for Mother Nature!
 
I had a recent experience cutting that was a great reminder of how dangerous cutting down trees can be. We had a "macro burst" come through as part of a thunderstorm. Took out a 24" diameter maple in the front yard which as it dropped it a took out a magnolia tree. The magnolia was stripped down to two main trunks about 8" diameter, straight up about 12' long each - totally stripped of any branches looking like goal posts. The trees fell across my driveway blocking my cars in. My goal for the first night was to clear the driveway. Luckily I had a few neighbors helping as I limbed, they dragged the branches off the drive way. After about an hour we had the driveway clear. It was hot and getting dark. I got sloppy. I went to cut one of the magnolia trunks, made a notch and then did my back cut. Made two (atleast two) mistakes - back cut started above the notch but I stupidly angled it down vs horizontal. I also cut all the way through. the trunk instead of hinging and falling the way of the notch instead slid down the back cut and hinged on the remaining trunk causing the trunk to fall in exactly the opposite direction intended.... hitting the top of my head with a glancing blow. Lucky for me I just head a sore head for a few days. I put the saw down for the night and counted my blessings that my sloppiness didnt kill me.
Lesson learned... be careful
 
Yeah, as Clint Eastwood said, "a man's gotsta' know his limitations." I don't fell trees that
1) are much bigger than 12" or
2) that don't have an obvious way they "want" to fall or
3) have a >0% chance of hitting a building or electrical wires or
4) might get hung up.

That pretty much limits my felling to "ideal" trees.

Happily, I know a guy who makes a living in the woods who will take down a tree for like $30 a pop. Moonlighting, cash deal. So, I pay him to lay them on the ground and then I go to work limbing and bucking. See if you can find a pro to fell them. If they don't have to do any clean up, a pro will likely give a good price for just putting one down.
 
My advice is to buy an instructional video or watch one from a reputable source on the web. Paying a few bucks for this will be well worth it. Check out and contact the Minnesota Conservation Corps. They do a beginner chainsaw course for their new employees every year and may let you attend or borrow their training materials. They may have a field office near you.

Also, cutting up a tree on the ground is still dangerous. Lots of things can go wrong with twisting trees and compression/tension wood.
 
Read all you can. Hopefully with lots of drawings and pictures.
Start with smaller trees.
You need to make a center "hinge" for the tree to bend over on.
Don't cut all the way through. You want a 2 to 4 inch hinge area. Or about 10 to 20% of the tree width.
Cutting a V shaped notch on the falling direction. This keeps the hinge, from pulling apart. The notch should face the way you want the tree to fall. Have a plastic wedge in your pocket for quick insertion.
On thick bark trees skim off the bark first so the wedge will be against solid wood and not soft bark. Wax wedge. Have sledge hammer ready to pound wedge in. If the tree is leaning the way you want it to go, no problem. If it has a slight perpendicular lean leave the hinge area slightly thicker on the opposite side of the lean. If it is leaning back have a wedge handy. For small trees just pull saw out and jam wedge in quickly. Then hammer it in until tree goes over.
For large trees saw in and hammer in wedge behind chain saw blade when you have enough clearence.
Use plastic wedge so if you bump it with the saw it won't destroy the chain. For really large trees have 2 or three wedges. Since most homeowner saws are short you may have to cut from both sides of the tree. make sure all saw cuts match up.
If you can use a rope to help it over but this is usually not necessary.
I have done 21 pine and cedar trees some over 2 feet in diameter and 70 feet high. They were in a deep forest cabin building site. Every tree had to fall between other trees and not onto the ones already on the ground.
Basically the hinge area limits it to falling to For or Aft and not sideways. Then the wedges keep it from falling Aft.
Marking planned cuts with spray paint helps so you don't have to think as much as you are sawing.
This has worked for me. Use these ideas at your own risk.
 
Hi Twig...I have been cutting my own firewood for about forty years...and in that time I have had some close calls mostly of the unexpected kind...trees doing what they shouldn't have done...but did anyway...:) Always think safety...every minute...cos when you get sloppy thats when your gonna get hurt. Also saw kickback is a very big danger when workin' trees that are on the ground...and can get you in a second no matter how strong you are.
My advice...find someone who has been doing tree cutting for awhile and work with them if they want to take on a greenhorn. Book learnin' is fine...but nuthin' compares to hands on with a person who has done cuttin' for a few years.
Norwood Inc...in Canada...has a device called a Timber Jack that is worth having if your gonna cut big stuff...look into it. Good luck and enjoy your wood cuttin' and the warmth it will bring in more ways then one...:) Oldmainer
 
For your kids and family's sake, scrounge wood that has already been dropped.

I'm in my 3rd season and everything I've burned was dead trees that mother nature dropped for me or construction sites scores, etc. I've only dropped a few leaners and they were scary enough. I don't see the need to drop trees.

Firewood is not worth losing your life or becoming disabled for.

Please tell us alittle more - so we can gleen somewhat of an education from it. I do know when it starts to go, you create distance in the opposite direction because the trunk can bounce up and get ya.
 
I'm with sksmass - I only cut trees that are smallish, seem like they have a definite way they'll fall but aren't leaning too much, and won't hit anything valuable if they fall the wrong way. For all other trees I find an experienced tree feller to help/instruct. So far this has worked fine for me. Most of my firewood has come from trees somebody else cut down.
 
Twig said:
I joined this group awhile back and received some great information regarding wood furnaces. Well, shortly after my post I purchased the following: I'm not really a brand type guy, I usually just use what works, so please don't knock me for the chainsaws that I have. I hear Sthil is the best, but I picked up everything below for $75 and it was all brand new. My elderly neighbor passed away and his wife offered it to me.

1. Safety Hat with Ear Protection
2. Husqvarna 355 Nascar Edition 18"
3. Jonsered CS 2150 Turbo 18"

Anyhow, I need advice on chainsawing trees. It is something that I really enjoy, but sadly enough my first tree was may last. I was about 60' and looked like the perfect tree for firewood. It had been struct by lightening half way up. Well it started off fine, but halfway through the tree kinda slipped off the base and just popped. The base slammed me in the chest and I basically woke up in the ER.

So I'm writing because I basically promised my wife and kids that I would seek advice and try to find someone to show me how to properly take down a tree.

Thanks for reading
Click to expand...

Twig, it is not often I will congratulate a fellow when he has gotten a big blow like that, but this time you are to be congratulated! It could have ended much, much worse.

If you wonder, do some searching on one of our respected forum members who is no longer very active in posting or cutting wood. His name is Gooserider and he had a terrible accident. He also was no rookie when he had this accident last year. He is now riding a wheelchair rather than a bike.


You are like all of us in that we all needed advice when we started cutting trees. The very best way to learn is to be with an experienced saw handler. The time spent will be so valuable to you it is priceless. I was lucky in that I grew up in a time when cutting firewood was an annual chore. That was followed by cutting some logs to make some lumber for ourselves and a neighbor who had enough cut to build a big barn. That got me interested in sawmills and logging so naturally that is where I gravitated to and what I learned there was indeed priceless. So, my advice is to find an experienced feller and learn from him.

The part of your post that does not make sense to me is where you stated that half way through the tree it kinda slipped off the base. That can not happen! There has to be more to the story and it might help a lot of folks if you can completely describe what happened. That is, starting from where you made the first contact with the tree; describe what you did. I know this would not be pleasant but you could really help a lot of folks if you would do this.

I, and I am sure, everyone else on this forum wishes you a speedy recovery.


btw, I have not checked but I think Stihl might have some good videos on their website.


Oh, and if you wish to sell those saws and hat for $75, please feel free to contact me!
 
Well this thread is a bit old and Twig hasn't been back since September. Hopefully s/he has found some good resources and is learning to fell or just cutting downed wood for a while, preferrably both as cutting sizeable downed stuff can have a some surprises as well.
 
Geez midwestcoast, for some odd reason I never even looked at the date but that is something I normally do. Well, we all do odd things from time to time it seems.
 
Brother Bart, you said to "tell a tree service that you just want a chop and drop in the woods..."

I understand drop, but what's the chop part? Is that where they go up in the bucket and remove the limbs?

Or does that mean just cut it down, no frills?

Thanks,
Nancy
 
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