Need advice on electric log splitters-especially power requirements

[ryderlj]

Looking at electrics in the 5 to 7 ton range (one is Powerhouse 7 ton) but am seeing varying inconvenient power requirements like 20 or 30 amp source. Anyone?

 

[jimbom]

I have a 5 ton electric. Data on the unit indicates 2 HP, 15 amp, 120 volt. If this were true it would be great. However, it is more likely the efficiency is 0.65 and the true HP is 1.57 HP. Using a 50 foot 12 gauge copper extension cord, you might have a voltage drop of 7 volts. Then the actual continuous horse power could be in the range of 1.48 HP. That is if your outlet held at 120 volts. If the outlet dropped to 112 volt and you had a 7 volt cord loss then the horsepower would drop to 1.37 HP.

Not quite the 2 HP on the label.

 

[DanCorcoran]

I have the 7-ton Pow'R'kraft (specs are shown below). I have it connected to a 20 amp circuit using a 10-gauge, 25-foot extension cord. It works great and neither the cord nor the motor gets hot. If the motor really draws 2300 watts, then at 115 volts it would require 20 amps. I'm not sure how they figure it'll run on a 15-amp circuit, as shown in the specs. I'm very happy with the splitter, but wouldn't use a smaller or longer cord myself.


Features:

§ Dependable 1500 watt / 2,300 watt output during 7 ton cycle electric motor runs on regular household current (ground fault breaker protects against overload)

§ 7 tons of RAM splitting force – Get 7 ton pressure at single phase power supply. This incredibly designed 2 speed motor provides 4 ton force at faster speed and 7 ton at lower speed, with the same single phase motor. As the wood splitting only requires high force (lower speed) for a short period, after wood is split higher force is not needed. At this point operator can switch to lower force (faster speed).

§ Splits up to 20†long log, up to 12"diameter

§ Consistent, safe cutting motion time after time

§ All steel construction for a long working life

§ Fully Assembled (length–42â€, height–20â€, width-11†weight – 172 lbs.)

§ 2–Year warranty

Specifications:

• Motor: 15 Amps 3 Horsepower
• Splitting Force: 7 Tons (14,000 Lbs)
• Hydraulic Pressure: 2320 PSI
• Hydraulic Oil Capacity: 6.8 QT.
• Length: 42†of Work Space
• Width: 11
• Height: 20â€
• Weight: 172 Lbs

 

[John the Painter]

[quote author="DanCorcoran" date="1318125384"]I have the 7-ton Pow'R'kraft (specs are shown below). I have it connected to a 20 amp circuit using a 10-gauge, 25-foot extension cord. It works great and neither the cord nor the motor get hot. If the motor really draws 2300 watts, then at 115 volts it would require 20 amps. I'm not sure how they figure it'll run on a 15-amp circuit, as shown in the specs. I'm very happy with the splitter, but wouldn't use a smaller or longer cord myself.



+1

 

[Dune]

My electric splitter draws 42 amps at 220 volts, but the tonnage is a bit higher.

 

[MasterMech]

My electric splitter draws 42 amps at 220 volts, but the tonnage is a bit higher.

Holy current draw batman!

 

[raybonz]

My electric splitter draws 42 amps at 220 volts, but the tonnage is a bit higher.

Now that is a real splitter! Are you running a 10-12 HP motor on that splitter? The best part is how quiet and exhaust free that splitter is! Listening to a gas motor all day is annoying and deafening!

Ray

 

[Dune]

My electric splitter draws 42 amps at 220 volts, but the tonnage is a bit higher.

Now that is a real splitter! Are you running a 10-12 HP motor on that splitter? The best part is how quiet and exhaust free that splitter is! Listening to a gas motor all day is annoying and deafening!

Ray

It is a ten horse Baldor, equivilent to about a 15 horse gas engine.

The current draw is from the name plate, I am sure it is only that high when actualy producing ten hp.

 

[raybonz]

My electric splitter draws 42 amps at 220 volts, but the tonnage is a bit higher.

Now that is a real splitter! Are you running a 10-12 HP motor on that splitter? The best part is how quiet and exhaust free that splitter is! Listening to a gas motor all day is annoying and deafening!

Ray

It is a ten horse Baldor, equivilent to about a 15 horse gas engine.

The current draw is from the name plate, I am sure it is only that high when actualy producing ten hp.

Excellent! Baldor makes a good motor.. The energy efficient models give the best effiiciency and will save you money in electricity just be sure you have overload protection or you'll burn up that motor in an overload situation..

Ray

 

[SolarAndWood]

It is a ten horse Baldor, equivilent to about a 15 horse gas engine.

The current draw is from the name plate, I am sure it is only that high when actualy producing ten hp.

What pump are you driving? Is that motor still single phase?

 

[Dune]

It is a ten horse Baldor, equivilent to about a 15 horse gas engine.

The current draw is from the name plate, I am sure it is only that high when actualy producing ten hp.

What pump are you driving? Is that motor still single phase?

It is single phase. It is underpumped, with a vickers from a 5 hp trash compacter powerpack.

I have yet to find the ideal pump for the ideal price. I was interested in two stage pumps for a while, but this motor is 1725 rpm and the two stage pumps I have found are 3600. I don't want to forgo the convenience of direct drive at this time.

 

[SolarAndWood]

I have yet to find the ideal pump for the ideal price.

Heard that. 5hp motors off rotted compressors with 16 gpm 2 stage pumps seem to be the best value, but it would be nice to get more flow.

 

[Dune]

I have yet to find the ideal pump for the ideal price.

Heard that. 5hp motors off rotted compressors with 16 gpm 2 stage pumps seem to be the best value, but it would be nice to get more flow.

If the motor I have was 3600 rpm I would already be there.

 

[MrWhoopee]

Bear in mind that with the small electric splitters, the motor is only running during the actual splitting stroke. I would guess it is probably running only 30-40% of the time, depending on how fast the operator resets. Doesn't affect maximum draw, but does affect heat build-up and reduction of conductivity.

Of course, I've been wrong before. :cheese:

 

[mayhem]

My Speeco 5 ton unit says it draws 15A. I tried using a 25 foot standard orange extension cord and it wouldn't even fire the motor. Switched to a 100' 12 ga 15A rated cord and I have no issues whatsoever splitting wood. I haven't gone so far as to put a Kill-A-Watt meter on it (mainly because I don't own one) but I can't tell any performance difference between splitting with the 100' cord or plugged directly into the outlet.

 

[ryderlj]

Craig,
WOW, you really like your electrics like me! I am just too sloppy with gas motors that I don't use often. Most of them sit with gas in them for too long because I am usually not sure when the next time it will be I will pck it up. Then it is carburator service time. The lawnmower is OK because I use it often enough. Must have the gas snow blower though and just had tha carb rebuilt again (mid 80's John Deere 32" 8HP monster still going strong but at least I use that every year. I have not owned a gas leaf blower, hedge trimmer or chain saw for years except my wife made me get a gas blower one the day before Irene because God forbid we could not clean up the property the next day if we lost power! Went to the local rip off equipment dealer because HD and Lowes were already out. So I voluntarily got ripped for a wimpy 55 MPH stihl for $150 bucks that stayed in the box for 2 weeks after until my 14 day return policy expired by one day and the effers would'nt take it back! My Toro 70MPH electric cost me 70 bucks and runs circles around the Stihl. These electrics last me a good ten yrs of frequent use. Also like electrics because my wife will operate it with no complaints. I don't blame her. Just today I got smacked on the leg which is now swollen when the Stihl kicked back when starting. (finally using it because I can't return it). Anyway I would really like to hear about how you power the Poulan saw. I just bought a Craftsman 18" 4 Hp, 13 Amp electric and haven't used it because I can't get a straight answer out of anyone as to what happens if I try to exceed 50' by using some length greater than 50' of 10 AWG cord. It's like voodo not science. I keep getting the answer "We have not tested the unit at more than 50' ( 12 AWG) and do not recommend trying a longer one at 10AWG) ". I can't even get a straight anwer if I can use a 15Amp outlet. Most of my engineer friends are telling me to use a 20 Amp outlet but also can't tell me about 10AWG cord because there is some voodo about the ratings on the saw switch and internal wiring being PVC and not teflon. All they tell me to do is try it and hope for the best! AGGHHH! Have you tried to push the limit? I would love to hear your experience!
EZRYDER

 

[nate379]

If it truly is a 10hp motor, it will pull about 35 amps... well unless it's horribly ineffiecient.

My electric splitter draws 42 amps at 220 volts, but the tonnage is a bit higher.

Now that is a real splitter! Are you running a 10-12 HP motor on that splitter? The best part is how quiet and exhaust free that splitter is! Listening to a gas motor all day is annoying and deafening!

Ray

It is a ten horse Baldor, equivilent to about a 15 horse gas engine.

The current draw is from the name plate, I am sure it is only that high when actualy producing ten hp.

 

[raybonz]

If it truly is a 10hp motor, it will pull about 35 amps... well unless it's horribly ineffiecient.

My electric splitter draws 42 amps at 220 volts, but the tonnage is a bit higher.

Now that is a real splitter! Are you running a 10-12 HP motor on that splitter? The best part is how quiet and exhaust free that splitter is! Listening to a gas motor all day is annoying and deafening!

Ray

It is a ten horse Baldor, equivilent to about a 15 horse gas engine.

The current draw is from the name plate, I am sure it is only that high when actualy producing ten hp.

Nate,
I would call that a standard effiency motor as you can see here that is typical unless you want to fork over more money for a more energy efficient motor.. For the amount Dune runs that splitter I am sure it is fine..

http://www.baldor.com/products/specs.asp?1=1&page=1&catalogonly=1&catalog=L1511T&product=AC+Motors&family=Single+Phase|vw_ACMotors_SinglePhase&hp=10&winding=37WGX047&rating=40CMB-CONT

Ray

 

[gmule]

I have yet to find the ideal pump for the ideal price.

Heard that. 5hp motors off rotted compressors with 16 gpm 2 stage pumps seem to be the best value, but it would be nice to get more flow.

If the motor I have was 3600 rpm I would already be there.

Put a smaller pulley on the pump

 

[MrWhoopee]

EZRYDER,

I do my best to avoid buying gas powered equipment unless it's just not practical to buy electric. Gas is much more expensive than electricity, the engines are noisy, smelly, complicated and tempermental. I have a friend who's a real motor head, I love to rub his nose in my $300 electric splitter.

As for the power requirements of the Poulan, I have run it out over 150' (50'+ 12 ga. and 2 x 50' of 16 ga., yes that's right, I said 16 ga.!) It was my only saw at the time and I had to work at the far end of my property. I was cutting small trees, 6 in. and under, and the duty cycle was less than 50%. I noted that the cord on the saw was 16 ga., so I decided to give it a try. No noticeable heating problems. I wouldn't try to run it continuously like that, but it worked for me and the saw is still working great after 4 years.

I run the splitter on the 50' 12 ga. with no noticeable problems after 3 years of heavy use.

I would prefer it if the GMC (9-10 mpg) was electric. :cheese:

YMMV

 

[raybonz]

EZRYDER,

I do my best to avoid buying gas powered equipment unless it's just not practical to buy electric. Gas is much more expensive than electricity, the engines are noisy, smelly, complicated and tempermental. I have a friend who's a real motor head, I love to rub his nose in my $300 electric splitter.

As for the power requirements of the Poulan, I have run it out over 150' (50'+ 12 ga. and 2 x 50' of 16 ga., yes that's right, I said 16 ga.!) It was my only saw at the time and I had to work at the far end of my property. I was cutting small trees, 6 in. and under, and the duty cycle was less than 50%. I noted that the cord on the saw was 16 ga., so I decided to give it a try. No noticeable heating problems. I wouldn't try to run it continuously like that, but it worked for me and the saw is still working great after 4 years.

I run the splitter on the 50' 12 ga. with no noticeable problems after 3 years of heavy use.

I would prefer it if the GMC (9-10 mpg) was electric. :cheese:

YMMV

Your electric saws use a universal motor and you can get away with that and worst case you may ruin your 16 awg cord but your splitter will croak if you use the same setup.. The 50' 12 awg cord would probably be ok but it will be harder to start the splitter because of voltage drop..

Ray

 

[Dune]

I have yet to find the ideal pump for the ideal price.

Heard that. 5hp motors off rotted compressors with 16 gpm 2 stage pumps seem to be the best value, but it would be nice to get more flow.

If the motor I have was 3600 rpm I would already be there.

Put a smaller pulley on the pump

Thanks for the advice.
The problem is, I want to keep it direct drive,so I have to find an 1800 rpm pump.
I don't want to rig belts and pulleys. Too much maintainence.