Need help with repair on Jotul F600 Firelight - inside guts of stove

[RichUncle]

Although I just joined the site today in order to post this question, I hope to be able to add a lot more in the years to come.

I need to replace the secondary burn tube assembly, baffle plates, and insulating blanket in a Jotul F600 Firelight stove. The model I have is one where the top does not open, so I am looking to go about it from the front doors.

I was able to remove the old baffle plates and insulating blanket by pulling them down through the tubes of the secondary burn assembly. Got the whole thing vacuumed out as best I can and was just about to loosen the bolts that seem to be holding the assembly in place when that little voice inside my head said, "Go ask the fine folks at hearth.com first." (Knowing that bad things usually happen when I ignore that voice, I decided to come on here and see if anyone has any experience or wisdom to share first.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.
I have the parts already and it seems very straight forward. That is, until I actually gear up to get started, then it's a little daunting as I haven't done a repair like this before.

Exploded view diagram here: http://www.jotul.com/FileArchive/Technical Documentation/Wood Stoves/Jøtul F 600 Firelight CB/Exploded_view_F_600_P02_240304.pdf

We are basically looking at the secondary air manifold assembly/burn tubes as illustrated in the circled thing labelled "100" and the two baffle plates + insulating blanket. The assembly is all one piece.

Do the baffle plates really just sit on top of the tubes, or is there another way to install them?

 

[begreen]

This is the first I have heard of a Firelight where the top didn't bolt on. Not to doubt this, but double check about the top bolts inside the stove. They show on the parts diagram as parts 41?

 

[RichUncle]

This is the first I have heard of a Firelight where the top didn't bolt on. Not to doubt this, but double check about the top bolts inside the stove. They show on the parts diagram as parts 41?

OK - yes, sorry for the confusion. I do believe the entire top will lift off (gotta loosen those bolts, of course!). I was referring to the "lid" that apparently used to open at one time or another. Not really important to this repair as I probably wouldn't be able to fit the secondary burn unit through that opening, but it would be easier to just reach in to set the baffle plates and insulation blanket in place from the top... I guess I was more identifying the stove I have vs. past models.

Thanks for the help. That looks like the way to go, I was just hoping to hear an "easier" (or at least less involved) fix.

For those who are curious, I was able to confirm the baffle plates do indeed just rest on the tubes, allowing for expansion and contraction with the heat. Blanket just rests on top of it all.

I'll let everyone know which way this goes, including pics if anything "interesting" happens as a result! In the meantime, if there are any other tips or pointers, please feel free to chime in.

 

[Shari]

May I ask why you have to do this repair? Was it a used stove you purchased at a reasonable cost?

 

[Dexter]

Do not try to open the "lid": Disconnect the flue collar. reach in through the back of the stove. Find 4 bolts, one at each side of the top, one in the front, one at the back, ALL pretty close to the edge of the top. Remove bolts, and lift off the entire top. It's heavy, but if your back is OK, you can do it alone. Have a place to put the top prepared, before you lift it.

The secondary burn manifold with tubes is best replaced as a complete assembly. Five years ago, it was $50 bucks. I bet it's still under $100. It bolts to the back plates of the stove, but the bolts will not pull the manifold flush to the back; it will leave a 1/8" gap (!) between the back plate secondary air ports, and the intakes on the manifold. There is too much expansion with the extreme temp changes in this part of the stove. So, carefully fill that void with with stove cement, BEING CAREFUL NOT TO PLUG THE BACK PLATE AIR PORTS. The cement will allow expansion and contraction without allowing too large a "leak" around the connection. (The weight of the rest of the manifold simply rests on ridges cast into the sides of the firebox for that purpose.) Drop top baffle into place. Your finished.

Be advised, I have been burning a Firelight CB since 99. We literally heat about 2000 feet of house with it, and that requires a LOT of constant burning. (Our furnace does not run, when we're at home!) We have noted that the Firelight cast-iron top-plate/baffle warps enough (over 2 to 3 years of hard burning) that it widens into the secondary heat chambers (on either end of the tubes), and can bend them downwards. We replaced those top baffles a couple of times. The third time, we threw the baffles out, and did not replace them. We cut SPLIT fire brick to fit the area that had been covered with the iron baffles. (I think about 14 3/4" square, but you'll have to measure yours, if you want to try this.) We ran seven 3/16" cold-rolled steel dowls, north/south orientation over the burn tubes, to hold the firebrick slightly away from the tubes. (This allows the hot air in the firebox to go over, as well as under, the tubes -- just as with the stock set up). We layed the split bricks over the tubes and dowls, and "mortered" them together lightly, with stove cement. WE KEPT THE FIRE BLANKET, AND LAYED IT OVER THE TOP OF THE BRICKS.

Since then (about 5 years, now) the stove has burned like new, and has been absolutely maintenance free (other than a door gasket and cleaning). I MAKE NO GUARANTEE AS TO THE SAFETY OF THIS MODIFICATION. PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK. But it certainly has worked for us.

 

[Dexter]

BTW, we found this stove to be a bit tricky to learn. But once figured out, it is an absolutely fabulous heater, and I would buy another in a heartbeat.

Cheers,

 

[Dexter]

Multiple posts, sorry. 'Just remembered this: Yes, the baffle plate just sits on the burn tubes. It has 3/16" ridges cast into them to hold them off the tubes slightly.

Regards,

 

[Ron34422]

This is the first I have heard of a Firelight where the top didn't bolt on. Not to doubt this, but double check about the top bolts inside the stove. They show on the parts diagram as parts 41?

OK - yes, sorry for the confusion. I do believe the entire top will lift off (gotta loosen those bolts, of course!). I was referring to the "lid" that apparently used to open at one time or another. Not really important to this repair as I probably wouldn't be able to fit the secondary burn unit through that opening, but it would be easier to just reach in to set the baffle plates and insulation blanket in place from the top... I guess I was more identifying the stove I have vs. past models.

Thanks for the help. That looks like the way to go, I was just hoping to hear an "easier" (or at least less involved) fix.

For those who are curious, I was able to confirm the baffle plates do indeed just rest on the tubes, allowing for expansion and contraction with the heat. Blanket just rests on top of it all.

I'll let everyone know which way this goes, including pics if anything "interesting" happens as a result! In the meantime, if there are any other tips or pointers, please feel free to chime in.

The "lid" comes off easily...remove two bolts...fore and aft...they don't have to be replaced to burn...the heavy "lid" just sits in place...makes cleaning easier...