Need help with this one

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Snowy Rivers said:
I have a Quad 1000, but the setup is a bit different with the cast door having a complete rope gasket thats on all four sides.

The air wash comes from vents that connect to the lower air plenum chamber.

The stove in question likely is supposed to have the lower edge of the glass left to "suck air" in to keep the glass clean.

If the stove was not working well, a good cleaning plus a really good sucking with the leaf blower my well fix the stoves ills.

As far as clinkers go, the quads will form some really hard clinkers in the lower portion of the pot.

A clinker will form readily if the pellets have a lot of DIRT and other non burnables in them.

I have used some of the top rated pellets and still get clinkers.

My bet is that the lower edge of the glass needs to be gasket free to allow the airwash to work right.

Snowy

I agree with you, Snowy!!! Seems like Let It Burn confirms it too! How did your lathe work go? U R an amazing gal! Trucker, machinist, who knows what else! Wow! Where the hell were you all my life? :p
 
this still makes no sense. i gotta see a picture of this. there is no point of a door gasket if the bottom is completely missing
 
It does make sense if its for the air wash system. That would also explain the dirty glass also.
 
dies9 said:
this still makes no sense. i gotta see a picture of this. there is no point of a door gasket if the bottom is completely missing

It works on every Castile and Sante Fe out there plus a helluva lot of other stoves. Take that gasket off of the bottom!!!!
 
dies9 said:
this still makes no sense. i gotta see a picture of this. there is no point of a door gasket if the bottom is completely missing

Sure there is...

"The firebox need not be sealed (and in fact is never truly sealed) , there just has to be enough blower power to create a pressure difference to draw air through the system in the correct amounts in the proper places."

You just don't see how it happens to operate in this case.

Oh while I somewhat have your attention, it helps a lot if one places the stove make and model in the thread title, that way you are more likely to get a response from someone who owns and/or services that particular stove.
 
SmokeyTheBear said:
dies9 said:
this still makes no sense. i gotta see a picture of this. there is no point of a door gasket if the bottom is completely missing

Oh while I somewhat have your attention, it helps a lot if one places the stove make and model in the thread title, that way you are more likely to get a response from someone who owns and/or services that particular stove.

VERY True Smokey. The second I see Quadrafire CB 1200. I'm all in. Or anything Quad for that matter.
 
I just got confirmation from 'Heavy Load' over on iburncorn that the non=AE only has the gasket on three sides. End of story. Take that gasket off!!!!
 
tjnamtiw said:
I just got confirmation from 'Heavy Load' over on iburncorn that the non=AE only has the gasket on three sides. End of story. Take that gasket off!!!!

Compromise: cut out a half-inch piece of gasket one third of the way in from each edge of the glass. This way you get the benifit of the x-tra heat and you still get to see the pretty flames in the stove.
 
Why not just put it back to the way it's supposed to be? If you don't remove ALL the gasket on that side then you will only have a partially clean glass, which is what he was complaining about.
 
I have this stove with a made date of 10/05. Mine does not have the tadpole on the bottom for this is for the air wash. If you put the gasket all the way around ..no air wash and the glass gets dirty quickly. This winter to get more heat out of it I closed off the air wash on the bottom with a 1/2" fiberglass rope gasket and a little high temp silicon. BIG increase in heat coming out of the convection tubes but no fire ambiance, wife did not like it but we used less pellets and heated the house much easier. I have just removed it for the shoulder season for the ambiance (happy wife) but will do the same next winter for the heat improvement.
Just my 2 cents.... aka...heavy load :coolsmile:
 
shisits said:
I have this stove with a made date of 10/05. Mine does not have the tadpole on the bottom for this is for the air wash. If you put the gasket all the way around ..no air wash and the glass gets dirty quickly. This winter to get more heat out of it I closed off the air wash on the bottom with a 1/2" fiberglass rope gasket and a little high temp silicon. BIG increase in heat coming out of the convection tubes but no fire ambiance, wife did not like it but we used less pellets and heated the house much easier. I have just removed it for the shoulder season for the ambiance (happy wife) but will do the same next winter for the heat improvement.
Just my 2 cents.... aka...heavy load :coolsmile:

Cute baby, heavy load!!!!! The OP was also complaining about very high temps to the point of cooking the paint. Did you notice that? With that high a temp on the heat exchanger, are you worried about warping? Are they tubes on your stove? If they are, you might want to look into my mods to suck more heat out of the tubes. Go play with the baby!!!
 
Thanks that is my latest granddaughter. I have the springs in my tubes like you suggested on your modification. I have the springs in only 5 of the 11 tubes. I am unable to get them in the top six because of a metal strip that seems to split the air, it goes right over the center of the top 6 tubes. With the gasket mod I did I was able to run on low or medium almost all winter whereas before I would many times run it on high or turbo. I run it on turbo once a week to clean it out but only for a 1/2 hr or less. sure heats the house up fast (1500 sq ft). 2 other mods I have liked is I rewired it and put in a variable speed fan control that allows me to adjust the convection blower. This one helped a lot. Also changed snap disk 1 to an an adjustable and moved it where it would start up faster and shut off the convection blower faster.. runs 15-20minutes after fire goes out before it run 40-55 minutes and was way to cold for my liking. I love to tinker with it.... :cheese:
 
shisits said:
Thanks that is my latest granddaughter. I have the springs in my tubes like you suggested on your modification. I have the springs in only 5 of the 11 tubes. I am unable to get them in the top six because of a metal strip that seems to split the air, it goes right over the center of the top 6 tubes. With the gasket mod I did I was able to run on low or medium almost all winter whereas before I would many times run it on high or turbo. I run it on turbo once a week to clean it out but only for a 1/2 hr or less. sure heats the house up fast (1500 sq ft). 2 other mods I have liked is I rewired it and put in a variable speed fan control that allows me to adjust the convection blower. This one helped a lot. Also changed snap disk 1 to an an adjustable and moved it where it would start up faster and shut off the convection blower faster.. runs 15-20minutes after fire goes out before it run 40-55 minutes and was way to cold for my liking. I love to tinker with it.... :cheese:

I remember now about your/my mods. :cheese: Today was about 80 so I don't think I'll be using my stove this week!!! BUT I will try your mod and test it out. Sure sounds like it's worthwhile. Thanks.
 
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