Needing advice on fireplace, boiler, outside , inside or ?

[maple1]

I can't imagine anyone boxing in anything but a proper insulated stainless chimney with wood & vinyl. If they did box something like something single wall in - well, I'll stop there.

But we're not able to see it from here - and you don't sound too sure. I would get a chimney guy in to give it the once over.

 

[stryped]

I can't imagine anyone boxing in anything but a proper insulated stainless chimney with wood & vinyl. If they did box something like something single wall in - well, I'll stop there.

But we're not able to see it from here - and you don't sound too sure. I would get a chimney guy in to give it the once over.

This is what I was referring to when I complained about local contractors earlier in my thread. I called the installer some time after the house was built and they confirmed it was single wall. I also remember them arguing with the building inspector during construction. It had something to do with fire blocking. I told them to just put it in and it ended up they didn't after the inspector relented.

Anyway. I have been thinking. I wonder how hard it would be to redo the chimney myself. My idea would be to use class A triple wall. I also wondered if putting sheet metal on the interior plywood of the chiney as a fire stop/block would help? Idea would be to insulate against the interior plywood with non faced insulation, put sheet metal on top of that. I have also been reading about vermiculite and wondered if pouring that in the space between the chimney pipe and the sheet metal I would put on the inside of the plywood would make it fire proof or at lease very fire resistant?

 

[Acpeters21]

Ok so your old fireplace looks like mine. Ok yes it does have an outside air kit and mine too is in a chase at the end of the house doesnt' go through the ceiling. I had a FMI 12 3/8 OSD pipe and 8 in OSD pipe. I was going to run a 7 in liner up the 8 and have three wall chimney. well after demo I cancelled the 7 in liner order ripped out the 8 in pipe and just left the 12 in and ran my new 7 in ICC excel chimney right up the center so I didn't have to redo everything. Its an OPEL 2 with a central blower Im trying to heat 2800 sq ft without using my furnace or the blower. IV'e been using it for about two week now haven't got all the bugs worked out.

 

[Vizsla]

Allstate for our area will not allow wood heat. I do know it is enforced by area differently. An OWB away from the dwelling is different, but I still don't know what they'd say about that. I know the last few years they have been pretty thorough with going over our policy and the questionnaire. Only way for me is to be grandfathered. And there was a wood burning appliance and oil originally.

 

[Tank71]

http://acucraft.com/photo-gallery/popular-options.asp

Here is a link to a company that puts a small water loop through their wood burning fireplace. This might be a viable option for you. Best of both worlds...maybe.. possibly run this to some storage, HX or some radiant baseboard, DHW?? I know they make a great product, not sure the cost but something else for you to chew on. Good luck

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[flyingcow]

Up here wood and pellets are very close in price per million btu's. Someone mentioned pellets earlier, do you have acess to pellets in your area? If so price per ton? easier to store and handle vs wood.

Another thing to look at is a air source heat pump. Pretty efficient use of elec. I have two in my house in northern Maine. I would imagine they would work very well in Ky. $3 to $4k for a unit. They also have HP's that heat DHW too. I am impressed how well they work up here. http://www.mitsubishicomfort.com/en/consumer/how-it-works/advanced-technology plus fujitsu has a nice line of units. Gives you heat and A/C. Whats your Kwh charge down there?

I would guess your heating system was put in with the same mentality of the GC building the house. Slap it together and run away? Heating system not balanced and doing a good job. Ductwork designed and installed improperly will cost some dollars when running. I used to install ductwork, easy to do a sh!tty install job. Proper sealing of ductwork? No tape, only caulking or approved sealers. Etc.

You probably got a variety of things going on. Low R-value in walls, maybe some good air leaks as well? Windows drafty? You may have been told it was R-13, but was it insulated in a professional manner?