Never sharpened a chain before, need advice.

Hey MM, if you're cuttin in the dirty beech & yard birds like I have been lately you can burn up a 100' roll in a couple years when you've got 4 - 5 saws that use the same chain. If the yard birds don't get ya the fence row trees will.
A C

I meant on 1 saw but yeah, I here ya. Cut up several yardbird oaks post-Sandy and found a ton of metal in all of them. Plant hangars, climbing spikes for utility poles, you name it, it was in there.

Thanks
I don't like to bring the saw into the basement, but would like to sharpen some chains there, so can I clamp the drive teeth or something in a vise ? should I use soft jaws ?
Other ways to file, with out ! chain on saw ???

I just clamp mine in the vise, making sure that the chain will rotate freely. As you can see, I've marked the sharpening angle on the workbench (30 degrees for my chain), so that I can line the saw up correctly. Then I just file perpendicular to the edge of the workbench (I marked the vertical lines to make it easier to line up). I usually make two passes per tooth, making sure to file only in one direction (away from the cutting edge).

You can see that I marked the bench on the other side of the vise as well. I just swing the vise around to do the alternate teeth.

Most important discovery I've made: files don't last long. If you can't feel the file biting with each stroke, it probably needs to be replaced.

To add to Dan's post, files can be rotated in the guide a couple times before you chuck 'em.

Bought a cheap-O Harbor Freight electric sharpener...got so frustrated with the damn thing, I just threw it out (recycled it, of course). Have paid hardware store to sharpen a few chains for my 16" Stihl, but will now make the effort to learn hand sharpening. Are there recommended sharpening' kits' I should look for...? Thanks for any advice.

I used to clamp my bars (with powerhead attached) directly in the metal jaws of the vise, but I discovered that the paint lasts longer when I use soft jaw inserts.

BESSEY Nylon Magnetic Vise Jaw

It's nice to have the powerhead attached when hand sharpening because you can use the chain brake to immobilize the chain. Also, If you clamp the bar at the right place along its length and the powerhead is still attached, it will reduce vibrations when you make your filing strokes.

Yup ! have the same ones , they work good

There are some recommendations in this very thread.

The mini dedicated file guides is what I got, to get started, simple, not hard to learn , my chains are now all sharp.
U see some recommendations in this thread, Sharpening A Full Chisel Chain and pic of, The mini dedicated file guides ,
If U do a search on here U will find lots of threads on chain sharping , and guides

Head to your Stihl dealer and pick up one of these. Inexpensive and everything you need.

Wear leather gloves or keep the band aids nearby! One reason I really like a cordless dremmel with grinding stones is no blood loss. It is more accurate in my opinion too.

Everybody should watch the Timberline chain sharpener at their website. Seems to be a solid, simple, unique device. Yeah, its' $125.00, but think I'll take the plunge and buy it...one of those times where you get what you pay for. Will report back on how it works later...maybe Santa will bring me one !