New Chain "Dragging to the Left"

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Fly840

New Member
Oct 31, 2011
11
Peachtree City, GA
Please direct me to a thread that already discusses this problem, I apologize I could not find it!

I own a ten year old Husqvarna 350 model with an 18 inch chain. I have been working on a very large downed tree, and for most of the trunk I have had to cut it twice, once on each side to get all the way through. For the most part it has been going well. I just bought a new chain and only had to cut the remaining 8 logs. Again, two cuts at a time. The first one went well and then the trouble began. I have seen this in the past. The saw began "pulling" to the left and making a "curved" cut. It was almost as if the chain became dull and would only cut when applying a little side pressure on it. I believe the chain was at the correct tension.

What causes this? Any suggestions?

Thanks

Bill
 
Well, maybe I should make sure of that first. I actually brought the saw in and watched the guy put the chain on and pick it out. That doesn't mean it was the right one of course.

Bill
 
Since it initially cut straight with your setup and then started throwing you curves, my guess is that you hit debris with the cutters on one side. BTDT

Suggestions:
Inspect chain carefully now to find the cause.
Sharpen chain regularyl, like at least every two tanks. Sharpen also when problems are suspected and/or it's not spitting big chips.f

A clamp-on file guide and files are much cheaper in the long run than the effects of dull chain. Stopping to file for a few minutes also provides a safety-boosting time-out.
 
As LEE said, it could be the wrong gauge or a bar that needs to be closed or dressed but dulling the chain on one side will also factor in. Generally, when the rails of the bar wear uneven, it usually cuts to the right, not the left. The left side gets more oil than the right side so the right side rail wears down pulling the chain to the right.

If you have a level machined surface like a table saw or jointer, see if you can stand the bar on its rails. If you have a good eye, you can just lay a coin across the rails and see if it's perpendicular.
 
Fly840 said:
John, like others, I probably don't do that enough, now, I need to really learn how to sharpen a chain without adult supervision, or better tools:)

Bill

Some years back (about 35, if you insist) I was "auditioning" various DIY chain-sharpening tools. I'm still using the same Granberg "File n Joint." About $30, depending on the model. Clamps on the bar. Took about 30 minutes IIRC to figure out just how to set it up. Precise, repeatable results.

Really easy to make chain super-sharp again with 2 strokes (no pun intended) per tooth.

Told a friend recently about it, when he told of his failed efforts to hand-file with various guides. 5-10 minutes of hands-on show-and-tell when he bought one, and he was raring to get filing. Chain really needed it. I expect to see some grins when I see him tomorrow.

Cutting with a Stihl 180 and dull chain is my idea of Sisyphean task. (30 cc engine) Not to mention dangerous.
 
Fly840 said:
Please direct me to a thread that already discusses this problem, I apologize I could not find it!

I own a ten year old Husqvarna 350 model with an 18 inch chain. I have been working on a very large downed tree, and for most of the trunk I have had to cut it twice, once on each side to get all the way through. For the most part it has been going well. I just bought a new chain and only had to cut the remaining 8 logs. Again, two cuts at a time. The first one went well and then the trouble began. I have seen this in the past. The saw began "pulling" to the left and making a "curved" cut. It was almost as if the chain became dull and would only cut when applying a little side pressure on it. I believe the chain was at the correct tension.

What causes this? Any suggestions?

Thanks

Bill

Sounds like the bar is a little worn. Take the bar off and turn it so you are now cutting on what used to be the top.
I always sharpen one side of the chain better than the other. This causes more wear to one side of the rail than the other side and this will cause the cut to run with a curve. If you have also used the other side it may still curve. The rails may also be worn unevenly on this side also. I have not had much luck with having bars re-ground and quite often a new bar is cheaper.
 
Since it cut straight initially, the chain hit something and is dull on one side. Have it resharpened or file the dull side. If it's cutting to the left, the left side is dull. I use one of the little 12v. sharpeners and will just touch up the dull side when it starts to cut crooked.
 
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