New Chainsaw - Purchased

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TMonter

Minister of Fire
Feb 8, 2007
1,526
Hayden, ID
Well I went ahead and bought a 372XPW

from Here:

http://www.npeco.com/index.html?lang=en-us&target=d12.html

I have all the protective gear already with my Husky 455 Rancher, anything else I should consider purchasing with the new saw?

Any recommended changes to do before I fire it up and break it in?

Been looking at 4 Cu inch saws for a while and since taxes turned out better than expected, my wife told me to go ahead and buy it. (I think she's 100% sold on wood heat at this point)
 
Nice choice TMonter. Big upgrade.

You may know all this, but in case you don't:

If you bought it from a dealer, it will be set rich. After about 5-10 tanks, take it back in so they can set the RPMs and lean it back out. You need a tachometer to do it right, because if you set it too lean, it will damage the engine. If you bought it online, then you might want to consider getting a tach.

Feed it premium gas and good 2-cycle oil. Roospike uses Mobil synthetic. I use Husqvarna oil, but I'm thinking about trying the syn.

A good strategy is to use two chains. Switch them back and forth and they say you'll get longer life out of the chains and bar.

A raker depth gauge is a handy tool for chain sharpening. A good one costs about $5.

Other than that, I'd say you're good to go.
 
Awesome buy ! The 372XP to the 455 rancher is a world of difference. What size bar and chain did you end up getting ?

Its nice to have the wood stove pay for the nessasary toys ( tools ?) to get the job done.
You'll Thank yourself for getting the 372XP.
 
i cannot imagine running a 372xp after running my "wussie" 346xp. i feel less manly:(
congrats!
 
I went with the 24 inch bar since my current 455 has a 24". I figured this way the chains would be swappable. Additionally I've never ran into a case where I needed more than a 24 inch bar.

I'll have to look into buying a tach in the near future it looks like but I have the filing equipment and depth gauge already.

What really sold me on this saw was I tried my neighbors 372XP and then my 455 rancher. That sealed the deal. Don't get me wrong, my rancher has been a good saw for two seasons, but its lack of power when not perfectly sharp annoyed me.

I'm going to break the saw in on Husky Oil and then switch over to a good quality air-cooled approved synthetic.

Now I just need to find a good snatch block for my cables....
 
I was thinking if you went with the 16" bar for the 455 u might get more use out of her , with both saws mounted a 24" bar ya might not use the 455 much. Just a thought .

I was looking at getting the new Husqvarna 390XP because i need it really bad!
Ok , i dont need the 390XP but all the bigger trees would have to look out for me , I had to pass this month because the Ingersoll-Rand 7.5 hp 80 gal Compressors went on sale (see other thread) and i did need a new replacment for the home shop and went ahead and bought two and the second one will go to the real work shop. There goes the 390XP idea for a wile.
 
You'll get a kick out of this guys. I was talking to my wife this evening and her comment about the new chainsaw was:

"You better treat that saw as if it were one of your children."

I don't think I'll be allowed to buy another one for quite a few years :)
 
TMonter said:
You'll get a kick out of this guys. I was talking to my wife this evening and her comment about the new chainsaw was:

"You better treat that saw as if it were one of your children."

I don't think I'll be allowed to buy another one for quite a few years :)

Your in luck ! You wont need to. ;-)
 
They might take different chains. I know the 346xp ships with 325 50 gauge. I'm sure the Rancher is either 3/8 pitch and/or 72 gauge. But chain is cheap, and you'll probably just use the 455 for a backup anyway.

Funny thing--having two saws on the job is pretty much a guaranteed that you're going to get one stuck.
 
Eric Johnson said:
They might take different chains. I know the 346xp ships with 325 50 gauge. I'm sure the Rancher is either 3/8 pitch and/or 72 gauge. But chain is cheap, and you'll probably just use the 455 for a backup anyway.

Funny thing--having two saws on the job is pretty much a guaranteed that you're going to get one stuck.

I hear ya there EJ . I'm just the opposite , its the day i take 1 saw is the day i get a saw stuck.
No problem tho , my rule is i do not cut alone so there's always 2-5 saw on site.

I'm thinking the 455 should be 3/8 , just assume the bars are the same rails.
 
I haven't done any cutting this winter, but I saw and bought some Husky winter bar oil at the hardware store the other day. The Stihl stuff that I got with the saw is pretty gooey to pour, so I imagine it would be stiff in winter.
 
Don't run a saw dull, sharpen it on every tank and learn how to sharpen correctly. If you really hate sharpening and you aren't in a spot where you're kissing rocks, you may wish to spring for a carbide chain. They don't get as sharp as a steel chain but they hold an edge forever.

TMonter said:
but its lack of power when not perfectly sharp annoyed me.
 
Don’t run a saw dull, sharpen it on every tank and learn how to sharpen correctly. If you really hate sharpening and you aren’t in a spot where you’re kissing rocks, you may wish to spring for a carbide chain. They don’t get as sharp as a steel chain but they hold an edge forever.

I usually sharpen on every two tanks as I'm cutting softwoods not hardwoods. I'm using a oregon bar mount filing guide tool to do my sharpening. The chains are sharp when I cut, but the 455 just dragged when cutting anything over 16" diameter. My neighbors 372XP never did, hence the new saw. Plus the full wrap handle will be nice for limbing and felling.
 
If it was bogging in that size wood you may be filing the rakers too aggressively if you are freehanding them. I'm in softwood 90% of hte time myself and the saw takes a much more aggressive cut that the same raker depth in hardwood. I'm not really sure why this happens...
 
Some rough guidelines on raker height include filing them down lower in hardwood than in softwood, and lower in frozen wood than non-frozen. That's the theory, anyway. Presumably harder wood (frozen and hardwood) provides more resistance and therefore can handle lower rakers without the chain jamming. In practice, however, if your chain isn't sharp, then taking the rakers down isn't going to have much effect, regardless of what kind of wood you're cutting.

Beginners should focus on mastering the sharpening process and just set the rakers according to the gauge. Start to experiment once you can consistently put (and keep) a sharp edge on your cutters.
 
It's a good saw. It's just not a hot rod saw like the xp professional saws that Husqvarna makes. I have a straight Model 55 which served me well as my primary saw for several years. I still use it as a backup.
 
372xp is an awesome saw.good choice.

go with a 16" or 18" bar and chain on the 455 and you will like it alot better and it will last alot longer.

55 or 55r is a much better built saw than the 455.
 
If I did not get this unbelievable deal My next saw was going to be a Dolmar 5100
But when a 357 xp is handed to you because it is a year old and missing only two bar bolts that's hard to pass up.

Now this saw will handle most cutting needs with a 20" bar mine has the 18" which is fine with me.
You gota to love the 14500 RPMS and do wears protective gear especially eye weare this thing will throw a path of chips 8' behind the saw.
That Dolmar will have to wait for my next life time. It is hard to fathom a home owners cutting fire wood needing more than the 357 xp.

My 041 Stilh farm boss reminds be of the slowski ads Lot of tork but the husky RPM, there is no comparison.

How does the 357xp compare in the price range of the saw models being purchased how much more is the 372 or 359 or how much less it the 346 and where is the 353
 
I looked at the price difference between the 357XP and the 372XP.

357XP - ~$580.00 Shipped

372XP - ~$640 Shipped

The 372XP is worth the extra 60 bucks and only weighs 1.4 pounds more and has 21% more power.
 
T monster When It was given to me I had no idea in cost. All my saws are vintage saws dating back to 1966 Mac 10 10 which still runs the others are lat 70' early 80's

Believe this they are Polands / Sears that the gas line craps out and do not start I have 4 of these saws given to me they all work now then there is my 1980 Stihl Barm Boss
041 has cut and cut I was trying to kill it to justify a new saw I plain would not quit. I mean this saw has been a major factor clearing over 100 house lots and 3 miles of roads.
When the work finally arivesd around April I figured I would get a makita or Dolmar Saks HJust to see what all the fuss was about the 5100 All my Makita r tools have been reliable
but I'm no longer in the market. I mot clearing lots any more and for the most part I cut up what has already been dropped and most of that is under 18"

Differcult trees the Backhoe usually makes the final decision as to where they are going to land. I only have to cut them enough to be finnished with the backhoe drop them pick up the trunk and cut them up. I have this saw ,It is hard for me to imagine a homeowner cutting fire wood would require more than the 357 or even need this much saw. I admit it sure is a nice saw LIGHT COMPARED TO THE 20 LB+ FARM BOSS.

I liken this to golf my clubs are not new and I get a kick out of the hacker that buys new clubs every year I mean the top brands. I have a old set in the garage I can use that can beat the hacker everyday.. Ever notice what it takes to go bike ridding. I wear what ever I have on. Man people spend a $1000 on the proper attire which which would be foolish for my 1972 swinn bike. I'd rather have a good golf swing than new clubs. My putter is 50 years old bulleye. Hey it has found the bottom of the cup. long enough then why change what works

I really think people should buy the tool that that matches the skill lever of the job and the user. ITs a lot easier to control a lighter saw with a smaller bar. And a lot harder trying to handle pro equipment without experience or the need Especially an occasional user that has never done it before. That's my oppinion
 
I have this saw ,It is hard for me to imagine a homeowner cutting fire wood would require more than the 357 or even need this much saw.

When you're bucking logs in the woods Elk, the extra power is very nice. Don't get me wrong, the 357XP is a great saw, but when you can spend a little extra for a saw with more power and not much extra weight, it's sort of a no brainer.

I cut 10+ cords a year usually because I go woodcutting with neighbors and friends. We also get into some pretty big wood 24"+ most seasons. Another seller on the 372XP for me was the full wrap handle, which is very nice when working in tight quarters and for felling trees.

Here is the new Saw with a picture my Wife took:
 

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HI Tmonter,

Nice wood stacker you got there. A few more years and he will be a great help.

I know, because I have 3 sons running around the house. Few more years and I won't have to lift a finger !!!!!!

Carpniels

PS. take those spikes of the front. Useless in most cases and people mostly use them to force a dull saw through the wood. Wrong!!!
 
Hard Woods said:
Just bought a 455 rancher...Thoughts? Is this a bad saw?

hardwoods, I've used a 455 for 3 years now, I cut between 7 and 10 cords a year but not out in the deep woods, usually more suburban settings. I started out with a 20 inch bar, but last year switched to 18". I'm perfectly happy with the saw, it does what I ask of it. I Keep the chains sharp, run good fuel and clean the machine regularly. Of course my only comparison is my 1980's era Sears Craftsman (No idea what the cc's were), and the 455 kick's ass over that one!. Anyway, for my purposes, I've been very happy with the 455. I checked out the arborists website a while ago and searched for 455 reviews. It's depressing, the "experts" completely diss'ed my saw! :mad:
 
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