New Clydesdale - What am I doing wrong?

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BigNick0

New Member
Dec 16, 2007
4
Western NC
I'm using my new Clydesdale for the first few times this week (had 5 fires so far). I'm trying to understand what I may be doing wrong. I've been reading these forums for hours, and searching. I even watched the crazy canadian fire video (which was helpful). I still think I'm missing something. Here's what I've done today:

Left remaining 1/2 inch of ash from lastnight's weak fire in place. Build a teepee with small split kindling and about 1/4th of a starter log and some of that cool twistied and tied newspaper I saw in the Canada video. One tiny match and I had a good blaze going with the door closed and damper open. It burned well for almost 45 minutes and about that time my blower kicked on. I think I had good success with starting the fire. Not complaints here. After the flames were gone, I tried to load the firebox.

I raked the coals forward. I put in 5 logs east-west at the back of the box stacked 2 high coming forward with one across the rear of the coal bed (maybe 1/2 into the coals). The splits were about 3 inches at their thickest. Closed the door and watched with the damper full open. That was about 3 hours ago and I've had a pretty slow burn which is now almost all coals. During this time I never had a single log completely engulfed. Most of the time there was flame on about 1/3 or 1/2 of the closest log to the coals. There were times with flame between the front log, and the next log behind it. But the wood never burned like I expected it to. With the door cracked a little, it will easily blaze up to a full burn, but I know it's not right to do it this way, and there's the potential for overfiring. All morning today I've left the door completely closed. I've played with the damper trying to get the secondary burn going with no luck at all. Unless the damper is full or 90% open, the fire starts to smoulder. A few times I had to open the door to rearrange the logs to get them to burn better, and had a significant amount of smoke come out the front once I had the door open wide enough to work with the logs.

The wood is a mix of cherry, oak and maple and seems reasonably well seasoned. There is no hissing, bubbling ends, or poping at all, and I'm not getting smoke out of the chimney (or very very little).

I would appreciate any tips you all could offer. I'd like to be able to load the logs for an extended burn of 4-5 hours without messing with it. Also, would like to keep the smoke down when I open the door (though perhaps I shouldn't need to open it, if its loaded right). How do the subsequent logs in the rear burn, once the ones towards the front are coals? Is the fire just supposed to catch as the coal bed moves backward with each log's burn completing?

How do I get the entire log to burn, instead of 1/2 of it. The log is laying on a complete coal bed, but it seems like the fire is concentrated on just one part of the log. I seem to NOT be able to build a big enough (hot enough) fire to get the secondary burn.

So, there's enough rambling for now. Sorry for the disjointed post. I'll be quiet now and hope someone can offer assistance.

-Nick
 
Without further data, the first suspect is draft. Is this an interior or exterior chimney? Is there a liner connected to the stove? Is there a block off plate installed above the stove (below the damper)?
 
The excellent video notwithstanding, it is not unusual to leave the door cracked open a quarter or half inch until the chimney draw picks up and the wood is burning well.

Mine takes about ten minutes. The manual with my stove said to leave it cracked open for twenty minutes. The key thing is to not leave the stove unattended while it is open. With a little practice you will recognized when the fire is at the point that you can close the door and the fire will maintain itself.
 
Sorry about the lack of chimney information in my first post. I was trying to be as thorough as possible. I had a new liner installed into my interior chimney when the stove was installed. There is no block-off plate installed. The chimney is about 18 feet high.

Perhaps I'm not leaving the door open long enough after loading it. 2-3 minutes may not cut it. As I've said, when I start my kindling fire, I get a good strong burn, lots of flame, with door closed, and seemingly good draw.

It's later on when I'm trying to manage a load with the coal bed, that I seem to get a weak burn after closing the doors. Maybe I'm just not giving the wood enough chance to catch before I tighten it up.

I just put in my second load of the day. I'm going to go open the door some more and see if I can get the logs cooking.

-Nick
 
OK, sounds like you are on the right track. Depending on the wood and thickness of the splits, I often have to leave the door ajar until it gets going well. This can vary from 5 min to 15 with some stubborn wood. It helps to put a couple of kindling sticks on the hot coals first, then the splits on top.
 
"After the flames were gone, I tried to load the firebox."

I think you have met the soapstone heat sucker bug. If you let your kindling fire die out then load on top of the smallish coal bed the fire will struggle or die. Your firebox is still too cold to support the combustion of big wood after only a single kindling fire. You need to use that kindling to start your firewood from the get go.

Here's my recommendation for cold starting based on burning my Heritage. Assemble your kindling fire with a firestarter chunk on the bottom and then a log cabin style load of kindling above. The cabin need only be two or three layers thick. Then continue adding the 2-3" splits in the same cabin shape right on up to the top of the firebox with any larger splits near the top. Probably only get two or three layers of these small splits. Leave about a one inch gap between the splits. Kindling at the bottom about the size of your thumb.

Your stove will consume most of that first load just to get up to temperature and then you can reload with larger splits right on top of this substantial coal bed just as you described.

If you have wet wood then all bets are off.
 
BigNick0 said:
Sorry about the lack of chimney information in my first post. I was trying to be as thorough as possible. I had a new liner installed into my interior chimney when the stove was installed. There is no block-off plate installed. The chimney is about 18 feet high.

Perhaps I'm not leaving the door open long enough after loading it. 2-3 minutes may not cut it. As I've said, when I start my kindling fire, I get a good strong burn, lots of flame, with door closed, and seemingly good draw.

It's later on when I'm trying to manage a load with the coal bed, that I seem to get a weak burn after closing the doors. Maybe I'm just not giving the wood enough chance to catch before I tighten it up.

I just put in my second load of the day. I'm going to go open the door some more and see if I can get the logs cooking.

-Nick

I think highbeam added some worthwhile info. You mentioned playing with the damper but does this stove have a bypass?? That would help in getting going.

Starting a fire off a coal bed really depends on the temp of the stove and the size of the coal bed. In the mornings after a 6 or 7 hour burn, I have a very nice set of coals to rake forward and get a full firebox(E/W) going. Sometimes I have to leave the door cracked longer than others. Sometimes I have to leave it unattended, so I leave the door closed and the bypass (non cat with secondary comb) open.

If you are trying to load a full firebox after just a beginning kindling fire, it will be tough. That video made some things seem a bit simpler than they are.
 
Awesome feedback. I think I started to figure this out yesterday while burning. I had a great start, but not enough coals/heat to keep my larger splits burning well. All day I struggled to keep the logs burnt, and had to scoot them around (ontop of the center coal pile) to be fully consumed. I didn't have enough of a coal bed to spread out (rake forward) and still maintain enough heat to burn the splits well.

Later in the day when I reloaded I threw-on some smaller splits in a criss-cross pattern and got a nice hot burn with a good secondary going. After that calmed down about an hour later, I raked them forward and had about 1/2 of the depth of the firebox with a decent coal bed. I was able to put a larger split behind the bed and a medium split in front of it, ON the bed, and it all burned very well in about 2 1/2 hours. Using this method I THINK I could load the box pretty well in the rear and get some extended burn times out of it.

On top of this, I'm burning at least 3 different types of wood, which is making it difficult to predict the behavior of each load. I'm going to try to sort out my splits and load a single wood type to try to get some consistency.

Thanks again for all the feedback on this post. It's been extremely helpful!

-Nick
 
Nick,

I'd love to write you a long post right now but I'm at work. I'll write one tonight. In the meantime, 2 key things. One highbeam touched on. I always leave the door ajar 1/2" on the reload and when starting up my kindling fire probably 5 to 10 mins. And when reloading on the kindling fire I don't fill the firebox full yet. I'll put 2 or 3 small-medium splits on still kind of criss-crossed to allow for air to flow, leave the door ajar 5-10 mins. Close door, air open full. Once I got those coals good and stove temp hot I can load the firebox full (east to west) with about 4-5 splits depending how big they are and I get a good burn for 4+ hrs. I'm still working on getting longer burns, but my wood is not 100% dry and I've only owned the stove for 3 weeks.


Second thing which is a Clydesdale matter. You'll notice a little nub dead center on the bottom lip of the fire box/door. This is an air inlet, its not the main air inlet, but what I've noticed is if you have split laying east to west right in front of that nub the fire doesn't burn well. Try using the nub as a prop and rest your front split on it. So rest the split up on the nub and there should be some space below the front split. An 1" or so. This helps get the front split going good and also allows air to hit the second split behind the front one.

Also search this website for Rhonemas' posts. He has some good ones on how to start the Clydesdale.

Any other specific Clydesdale questions feel free to ask me and I'll answer them later tonight.
 
In the Canada video, after you rake the coals forward and load the logs to the rear, you put a small log or kindling in the front on the coals you raked forward. That ignites the fire again (with the air open).
 
ClydesdaleBurner said:
Nick,

Second thing which is a Clydesdale matter. You'll notice a little nub dead center on the bottom lip of the fire box/door. This is an air inlet, its not the main air inlet, but what I've noticed is if you have split laying east to west right in front of that nub the fire doesn't burn well. Try using the nub as a prop and rest your front split on it. So rest the split up on the nub and there should be some space below the front split. An 1" or so. This helps get the front split going good and also allows air to hit the second split behind the front one.

Also search this website for Rhonemas' posts. He has some good ones on how to start the Clydesdale.

Any other specific Clydesdale questions feel free to ask me and I'll answer them later tonight.

This is great information. The first few days I was thinking that the little "nub" with hole was the whole inlet, then I convinced myself that it couldn't POSSIBLY let enough air in that one little hole. That said, I think that hole is an interesting design element, and I question the real intent of it. You would think the user manual would give some indication of how to best use it properly. I have seen the hotspot it generates right in the center of the coal pile though. I just have to learn to maximize that. I like your idea of resting the log on the nub and may try it.

One thing that concerns me is the amount of smoke I get when I open the door. I try to open as slowly as possible, but unless I have an extremely HOT coal bed, or very good flames going, I get a cloud of smoke pulled out the front. My wife is not pleased with the smokey smell. Is this typical for the clydesdale? I dont think its a draft issue, since with the door closed, I can generate full flame and get a secondary burn going without trouble.

And thanks for the tip to search Rhonemas' posts. He's got some excellent advice and seems to have good experience with the clydesdale.

Thanks again for all the great responses!

-Nick
 
With my Clydesdale, I've learned to gradually increase the loads. When its hot, my reloads are very quick with the biggest splits. If it's been 8-9 hours, I use 3-4 small ( 2-3") splits, and burn them wide open. That usually takes an hour, and then its hot enough for the bigger stuff. Every time I've rushed that, I've been disappointed. If its completely cold, I found that kindling fires don't heat the stove enough, and the coal beds are not enough to light off the next load. So now I continue to build the fire bigger while there are still active flames. My install sounds similar to yours, and the only time I get smoke out is when I put too big a piece in too cold a stove.
 
Check this thread out... more great Clydesdale discussions.

https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/12316/

Also when you open the door and get smoke, take it slower... Crack the door, wait for 5 seconds - that allows the draft to pull out any smoke, then open it wide. If you just open it wide right away it tends to puff some smoke.
 
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