Just installed my new drolet escape 1800i. I made a fire to break it in and get rid of the paint smell. Opened a couple of windows in the living room. At 9:30pm I had a nice coalbed and decided to test the burn times. Loaded it full of dry oak and it was throwing excellent heat. I watched the secondaries for a while after slowly tapering it down until control was almost all the way in. Just checked at 1:30AM and it was still throwing heat, stove temp around 300-350 degrees and a ton of coals. From what I've read about the stove I was expecting 8-10 burn times, until around at least 6am. Could the window being open affect the burn time or is this normal to have coals after 4 hours and still put off heat for another 4 hours? Thanks
New Drolet Escape Install and first burn
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lostDuck
Member
I have the same stove since last year and it averages a 6 hr burn. With 17-22% wood. Oak and maple. At 8 hrs it is pretty cold. It's just the size of the box issue.
Is your house still warm after 8 hours? Could you throw a log on and it start back up?
OK. Did somemore research. I got the stove hot as possible, quickly as possible with kindling and air wide open. it was around 650 when flames died down. Then I used the move coals forward technique, packed out the stove as much as possible, then shut it all the way down in increments as quickly as possible. Loaded it at 12:45AM, and still had tons of coals and 350 degree stove at 8:45am. Around 9:45am, it was 300 degree with enough coals to throw a log on and restart.
Would this be considered a 9 hour burn? Thanks Hearth.com!
Would this be considered a 9 hour burn? Thanks Hearth.com!
I would consider that a solid 9 hour burn yes. Having a surface temperature of 300*F 9 hours after loading is fantastic. I myself might be replacing my smaller Drolet, with the Escape 1800 BND next season for a little extra capacity and easier loading.
rtrev37
Member
The funny thing about all these test runs and burn time longevity is excluding the outside temperature. I have an old none EPA stove that I had modified to increase burn time. My test run was in the late fall, where temperature was above the 30's, and I was happy to see it last for about 7 hours with some coal for reload after 8. Wow that was nice until below freezing temperature stepped it. Once the temperature fell below 30's, stove temp heat output below 300 degrees was useless to keep me warm. While my test run was great during mild weather, it was not so great below freezing. The 7 to 8 hour burn time in mild weather was no longer seen during the frigid cold season because coasting between 300 to 250 was not enough to keep me or the house warm.
In other words, we should measure how long a stove burns and remain at or above 300 during the frigid cold temperature with the best possible wood and set up - not simply how long it last. Useful heat output at or above 300 during frigid temperature is what matters most - not how long it coast below 300 with remaining coal after: Yet this is what is included on most test runs for longevity on wood stoves.
Here is a final point, If you have a one level 1,000 sf home that you want to heat, then look for a stove with the minimum of 1,000 sf heating capacity. If you have a 2 level home then add 50% of the sf of the top level to the total sf of the bottom level and that should be your minimum heating capacity requirement as a starting point. The end number of 2,700 sf heating capacity is only at the stove's max push with the best wood and best set up possible. I will be testing this theory soon again with my new stove.
But as someone once said, better to have a stove you can add more wood and increase the output over any smaller stove you can't squeeze anymore out of. Better a little too warm then a little too cold and better to eat your breakfast shirtless over drinking your AM coffee with a Down-Parker...
In other words, we should measure how long a stove burns and remain at or above 300 during the frigid cold temperature with the best possible wood and set up - not simply how long it last. Useful heat output at or above 300 during frigid temperature is what matters most - not how long it coast below 300 with remaining coal after: Yet this is what is included on most test runs for longevity on wood stoves.
Here is a final point, If you have a one level 1,000 sf home that you want to heat, then look for a stove with the minimum of 1,000 sf heating capacity. If you have a 2 level home then add 50% of the sf of the top level to the total sf of the bottom level and that should be your minimum heating capacity requirement as a starting point. The end number of 2,700 sf heating capacity is only at the stove's max push with the best wood and best set up possible. I will be testing this theory soon again with my new stove.
But as someone once said, better to have a stove you can add more wood and increase the output over any smaller stove you can't squeeze anymore out of. Better a little too warm then a little too cold and better to eat your breakfast shirtless over drinking your AM coffee with a Down-Parker...
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