Hello, I've been lurking for a few days now, and figured I'd get some comments on my system. Overview: I've got an EKO 60 in a boiler shed about 150 ft from the house. Also in the shed is a storage tank (non-pressurized) with about 2700 gallons of water in it. Pex underground to the house, where a flat plate heat exchanger is used to heat the existing house oil fired hot water system. Now for the details: I've added firebrick to the lower chamber of the boiler to direct as much gas as possible to the front, then along the sides to the rear of the boiler. My unit is 3 years old, so I had to make my own turbulators. I used 3/16" round rods with fender washers bent to 90 degrees and welded to the rod so that the gasses in the tubes see the bottom of a V, each V rotated 90 degrees from the last one. Works really well, suprisingly. The manifold on the top of the boiler is 1 1/4 in pipe. I've got two UP26-64 pumps pushing into the storage tank. Each pump is on 1 in pipe, goes to 2 hx coils in the tank, flow is from top to bottom. Coils are 3/4 in tubing. I've got manual divert valves from just after the pump to the returnn manifold for cold starts. (There are also hand valves to do all sorts of different things, but this is the steady state config.) One of the pumps is controlled by the EKO controller. I added an aquastat to control the other. The probe for the aquastat sits right on top of the boiler steel. I've also added an off delay relay to control burn time. I typically fill the boiler with wood, reset the timer, and let it burn for 4 or 5 hours before just shutting down the EKO controller. The pump with the aquastat protects the boiler from over heating. I've also got a resistor in parallel with the EKO thermistor to get the controller to burn to hotter temps. I can get my water exit temps up to 200, where as I was only getting about 170 without the resistor. The storage tank has 4 coils for extracting heat from the tank. Coils are 3/4 in tubing. Flow on these coils is bottom up. Tank is only 5 ft high, so it's hard to maximize stratification. There is another UP26-64 pump in the basement pulling water from the coils. Originally, I had an OWB and was using a "wrap around" config for the hx. That is still in place, but there is also an hx in the return line to the oil boiler. The pump for the wrap loop only comes on if I can't meet the required temp using the hx in the return pipe. These two pumps are controlled from a home grown control system. I used an Allen-Bradly PLC to do the outdoor reset and control the pumps. I've also got thermostats with PI control, so I can monitor the % on time for each zone, and bump the reset temp if any zone is running too long. Heating system within the house is 8 zones plus DHW. All but 2 zones have radiant floor (those will by next winter, also). Radian is staple up with thin plates (read - bent flashing). Most rooms still have the original baseboard - flow is through baseboard then radiant. One room has 3 large castiron radiators - flow is through radiators then radiant. In all cases, baseboard was there first, and left in place in an effort to use the lowest water temps and get the benefit of warm floors. Typical operation: Normally, I feed the boiler twice a day, once morning and once night. Using the timer prevents the fire from burning out. That big storage tank allows the boiler to burn flat out until the fire is gone completely if I'm not there to feed it more wood. That got old fast, so the timer was added early on. Once the tank is up to 180, the system is easy to keep going. If it's warm out, I can get away with only feeding once a day. Or, twice a day and setting the timer for 2 hours and using less wood each time. Under normal operation, my stack temp is usually about 200 deg F. I can't get any lower without losing a good lower chamber flame. I'm in my thrid season with this, and really have no complaints. With the current price of oil, I'm sure it will pay itself off this winter. My post is really looking for comments. If anyone sees anything I'm doing that is wrong, let me know. I know the control systems portions, but nothing of the gassification theory. Anything I know, I learned from the guy who sold me the boiler or from experimenting. I could be missing something big here, and just not have thought of trying it. At this point, I realize that my biggest improvement would be digging up the pex to the house and adding more insulation. (Right now, it's closed cell foam around each pex, wrapped in foil bubble, in a Central Boiler sleeve to keep water out, in an 8 inch corregated pipe for some additional protection.) But anything I can squeeze out of the system is a help also. Questions I do have: (I'll post separately if this is too long to get responses) 1. How do I know if the pumps from the boiler to the tank are size properly? I tried two smaller pumps at the beginning of this year, and found that I got less heat transfer per wood used. So, the pumps I have are better than smaller ones. But what if I go bigger? At what point does the return go away? Obviously, this is an expensive experiment, so I'd like some input. 2. I get just a bit of smoke out of my stack. It mostly goes away once the storate tank reaches 180. But, the bottom chamber always has light gray fly ash, not dark and sooty. Is this normal? Could I be better adjusting my air flow? Anyone else with this boiler that has an idea what their air adjustment screws and fan dampers are set for? Thanks for reading and for any comments you have!