Hi, i've been perusing the forum for a few weeks and have actually read every thread with HI300 in it. Thanks for all of the information - it's been helpful with our new HI300 (my wife and I bought it as a wedding gift to ourselves!). I registered today because I do have some remaining questions. Sorry they are so long, but hopefully a future newbie will find this helpful. 1. We had a fireplace with a damper control. Upon installation of our insert they removed the knob. I'm assuming they just left it open and that there is no need to adjust the insert flue. Please let me know if I should have control of the flue or if it just always stays open. (at least we don't have the draft we had with the fireplace). 2. We're thinking of getting a "steamer" for the top ledge. I know it does not get as hot as the actual firebox, however. Does anyone have experience with these (plowhearth.com has a bunch). We need more moisture in the air but I don't want to waste $70 if it never steams. 3. I've read a lot about temperature and thermometers but still experimenting. I have a magnetic woodsaver but the package says it is for the flue. I put it on the center of the door and it tends to fluctuate between 230 and 320f. When I put it on the box where the air comes out it was much higher and in the "wasting fuel" area of the thermometer. First question - does it matter if it says for a flue? Second - what temperature should I aim for? (and final, rhetorical question - why the heck doesn't hampton/regency just build it with a thermometer? this is 2012 and i have to use a flashlight to figure this out?!) 4. How much wood do people burn in a season? I'm in Massachusetts and have 1800 sq ft. of living space. So far I can keep the ground floor at 65f and about 60f upstairs so I may have to burn more, or hotter. I have about 1.5 cords outside of mostly maple that I cut 1.5 years ago. I bought a moisture meter on amazon and find it is about 20% outside, 14% outside but under the deck, and once I bring it inside it drops to about 10% within a day or two. I never burn anything higher than 15%. 5. It seems most common for people to fully load the stove, let it go through the burn cycle and then to reload it. But does anyone throw a log (split) on here and there? Which is more efficient? 6. Speaking of efficiency, is it better to burn less wood hotter, or more wood cooler? Should I load it fully, get it really hot and then close down the air slowly? IF the house is cold, should I have the air control fully open with a lot of wood and fans on high to best heat? 7. From what i've gathered, the secondary burn happens in the back top of the stove when the stove is really hot and the air flow is cut down. Is this something to strive for? It seems to me that it would indicate the fire is not burning efficiently if there is extra combustibles trying to leave the stove. 8. I didn't watch the installation and don't really know how a wood burning stove works. I'm curious about the airflow. Where does the fresh air come in (airflow control)? Should I be concerned about ashes blocking the entry point? When the secondary burn happens, where is that air coming from? I know when the fire is big the flames are leaving in the front, top. What are the tubes on the top with all the holes? What do they do? Thanks in advance for any helpful responses.