New home owner with a few questions about my PE Super 27

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High Desert Dennis

New Member
Nov 10, 2023
15
Yucca Valley, CA
Hey there. This is my first post, so forgive me if I make any noob forum errors.

The stove I'm running is a Super 27. I feel that I've done enough research to understand basic operation and maintenance. In fact, I've made a few fires, and so far so good.

This said, today I cleaned the flue pipe, and as a result I have a couple concerns that I'm hoping the members of this forum can help me to stop obsessing over... lol.

1) I took the baffle plate out following a video's suggestion. I did NOT remember to cover the air tube with a piece of cardboard (or a rag, or whatever), so now I'm concerned about the possible ramifications of that oversight. Gurus, please advise.

2) The baffle plate doesn't have a pin. I have ordered a replacement, but in the meantime I am concerned about making sure I have the plate situated properly. As far as I can tell, the holes are lined up such that a pin could go in. Thing is, there is a slight space (we're talking less than an 1/8", or roughly 3mm) between the metal tab with the hole in it and the back wall of the stove..... so that if the pin were in, it wouldn't be completely flush to the back of the stove. It is, however, sitting flat on the rails with no space, and the plate is centered on the rails left to right. Again: gurus, please advise.

3) Finally, the insulation both in the baffle plate (I opened it up), and along the sides seem to be in decent shape, all things considered. How often might one need to replace these, and under what conditions? In other words, what is the observable criteria upon inspection for replacement?

Thanks in advance for your wisdom. 🙏
 
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Hey there. This is my first post, so forgive me if I make any noob forum errors.

The stove I'm running is a Super 27. I feel that I've done enough research to understand basic operation and maintenance. In fact, I've made a few fires, and so far so good.

This said, today I cleaned the flue pipe, and as a result I have a couple concerns that I'm hoping the members of this forum can help me to stop obsessing over... lol.

1) I took the baffle plate out following a video's suggestion. I did NOT remember to cover the air tube with a piece of cardboard (or a rag, or whatever), so now I'm concerned about the possible ramifications of that oversight. Gurus, please advise.

2) The baffle plate doesn't have a pin. I have ordered a replacement, but in the meantime I am concerned about making sure I have the plate situated properly. As far as I can tell, the holes are lined up such that a pin could go in. Thing is, there is a slight space (we're talking less than an 1/8", or roughly 3mm) between the metal tab with the hole in it and the back wall of the stove..... so that if the pin were in, it wouldn't be completely flush to the back of the stove. It is, however, sitting flat on the rails with no space, and the plate is centered on the rails left to right. Again: gurus, please advise.

3) Finally, the insulation both in the baffle plate (I opened it up), and along the sides seem to be in decent shape, all things considered. How often might one need to replace these, and under what conditions? In other words, what is the observable criteria upon inspection for replacement?

Thanks in advance for your wisdom. 🙏
As for #1 rig up some smaller hose to your vacuum and vacuum it out. If it gets plugged it will cause issues with secondary air/burn.

I’ll leave the rest for more knowledgeable members.
 
As for #1 rig up some smaller hose to your vacuum and vacuum it out. If it gets plugged it will cause issues with secondary air/burn.

I’ll leave the rest for more knowledgeable members.

Thanks for that. Pulled the tube off of a siphon pump and rigged it with some electrical tape. Seemed to work pretty well.

IMG_7019.jpeg
 
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Thanks for that. Pulled the tube off of a siphon pump and rigged it with some electrical tape. Seemed to work pretty well.

View attachment 319061
You will remember the rag next time or not and you’ll know where that siphon went to or not;) odds are in your favor. While it hooked up head over to thread refrigerator.
 
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UPDATE: I'm learning a lot about the PE Super 27 from old posts on this forum. Since the original post, I've taken the following steps:

1) I vacuumed out the air riser tube (lesson learned). I think I'm good there. 🤞
2) I discovered that there is no baffle gasket. 😲 I ordered THIS to cut my own. (Question -- can I run it in the interim with no gasket?)
3) I noticed the side baffle blanket looks a little short (not reaching the top and folding over) on one side. I ordered THIS.
4) The baffle plate is dropping down over the tube, so that's good. I can just feel that it's "clicked in place". Still, I ordered a new baffle pin, and I guess when it comes in I'll see if it fits.

Here s a pic. If anyone sees anything wrong with any of this, please let me know. Similarly, if I'm on the track with all of this, same deal.... please let me know. Kinda flying in the dark here. 🦇

Thanks. 🙏

IMG_7020.jpeg
 
Yes, you can run for a short while without the gasket. There will be a little air leakage at back until the gasket is replaced. I'd be tempted to order the 1/4" thickness. It will compress.
The side kaowool blankets sit half in the brick rail channel and then at a 90º angle to seal into the side of the baffle.

Looks good in there.
 
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Yes, you can run for a short while without the gasket. There will be a little air leakage at back until the gasket is replaced. I'd be tempted to order the 1/4" thickness. It will compress.
The side kaowool blankets sit half in the brick rail channel and then at a 90º angle to seal into the side of the baffle.

Looks good in there.
I very much appreciate your response.

When the blankets came in, I found that cutting them to 7" (....x 12", x 15.7") was perfect. The baffle blanket seem to be sitting such that they are angled toward the baffle plate, to prevent heat from escaping on either side of it.

I decided in the interim to fashion a baffle gasket out of the baffle blanket material, which is working surprisingly well. I also now have the 1/8" gasket sheet material AND some gasket rope on standby in my garage, and agree that doubling the gasket material to 1/4" is probably going to be most effective. I ordered the gasket rope just out of curiosity.... so that if need be I can try the hogwildz rope gasket option.

I also managed not only to clean my flue-pipe from roof to stove successfully (which I'm sure is old hat for you old woodheads, but was novel for me), as well as coming up with a slightly better spark arrestor solution atop my faux chimney. It's not sexy, but it's functional.

So yeah, feeling pretty good about my first winter in my new house with my new 1989 D-series PE Super27. (For extra credit: holz hausen & halfway-hausen.... lol)

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