I have a Hearthstone w/top flue collar. It has a big baffle inside, so if you sweep the flue the creosote falls behind the baffle. Removing it to clean every time is kinda of a pain in the arse. I am moving the stove from my shop to the basement of my log house that is still under construction and installing 8" doublewall Duravent. Initially I planned on having the flue terminate behind the stove, then 90 degree-ing up and over to it. I was playing around with it today and stuck the "T" right on to the flue collar. Any reason not to do this? Clean out would be easy, just stuff a rag in the bottom of the "T", sweep, vacuum & pull out the rag. Also it eliminates that 90, which I really don't like in my system.
New installation and a clean out "T" question.......
- Thread starter Motor7
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52 "hits" and no opinions? This is my first install, I have seen it done, but never done it, so I might need a little help. I got a whole pallet of stove flue/parts delivered from Sean at DynamiteBuys but they had back ordered a few pieces, so I cant even lay it out yet....getting kinda antsy
tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
hey motor....you must have had a great time moving that stove.....love the tractor. i've never seen a hook-up like that one, but i suppose it could be ok. you are right, pulling out the soot can be a pain. i have a straight shot with my small jotul and have a slider pipe so i just stick a bag under the stove pipe, sitting on the stove, so the soot goes in the bag and not down the stove. you could go that route too. like i said, i've never seen a hook up with the t directly on top but suppose it work ok. kind of odd no one got back to you. mabe everyone is out filling out their wood pile.
hago
cass
hago
cass
Woody Stover
Minister of Fire
The telescoping pipe sounds like the best solution to me. Only possible problem would be if the pipe got sooted up and was hard to slide. This may not ever be an issue, don't know.tcassavaugh said:
You've already got the tee though, and I think using it would be kosher but I'm not an install expert.
tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
Woody Stover said:
i guess its a slip pipe....or whatever its called. at my thimbal, the pipe is about 1.5 feet long and allows you to "slip" the connecting stove pipe over it so you don't need to cut pipe to adjust for fit.
cass
Thanks for the info. I em'd Sean @ DynamiteBuys where I am buying all the flue/fittings. He answered today(on Sunday!) and said it's not a problem, but I need the adapter to go from the stove collar to the "T" which was back ordered. I think I am going this route, since my clearance to the wall will make getting to the bottom of the "T" a tight-er fit. Up on top I can access easily even though it does not look as good, but what the heck it's a basement workhorse anyway.
Next i have to cut a floor truss, reinforce it and install a ceiling box...cut out area highlighted in red:
Next i have to cut a floor truss, reinforce it and install a ceiling box...cut out area highlighted in red:
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Wood Heat Stoves
Minister of Fire
I would skip the tee and use the telescoping pipe length. This is how the Dura Vent DVL is designed to work and makes it relatively easy to take it off the top of the stove to clean. The tee you show is another area for air to be drawn into the chimney, even with the cap, which will reduce the draft and cool the chimney causing more creosote buildup.
tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
Motor7 said:
i can see that.....you're gonna need a BIG stove until you get that closed in....lol
cass
I didn't have enough pipe to skip the T, so I installed it. The rest of the install went pretty good and I finished it up a few days before another cold snap. The Class A stuff was used off C-list and when I installed the Winbeater Cap I noticed it had no storm collar to keep water from running down into the pipe and the insulated lining. Sure enough, the first hard rain and I had about a gallon of water come down the pipe onto the soapstone. I googled around and managed to find the SS storm collar and since I put that on no more water down the pipe
I had been running this stove in the shop on a 6" flue.....holeey crap what a difference in draft with the "proper" 8" flue! I have about 22' overall and the draft is so strong if I try and leave the side load door cracked, it pulls it shut....sounds like a jet engine warming up. We camped out in the basement the other night and I will have to re-learn how to run this new set up.
I also violated the rules of flue height vs pitch. In my 10/12 I should have 10' above the roof line, but I only have 5'. So far it is not an issue, and heavy winds did not change anything, but I still have to put on the 10' porch roofs which might affect the draft. I do think one thing that helps is that their is a 200' drop off on that side of the house down a ridge to a creek....two steps out the basement walk out door and down you will go.
I had been running this stove in the shop on a 6" flue.....holeey crap what a difference in draft with the "proper" 8" flue! I have about 22' overall and the draft is so strong if I try and leave the side load door cracked, it pulls it shut....sounds like a jet engine warming up. We camped out in the basement the other night and I will have to re-learn how to run this new set up.
I also violated the rules of flue height vs pitch. In my 10/12 I should have 10' above the roof line, but I only have 5'. So far it is not an issue, and heavy winds did not change anything, but I still have to put on the 10' porch roofs which might affect the draft. I do think one thing that helps is that their is a 200' drop off on that side of the house down a ridge to a creek....two steps out the basement walk out door and down you will go.
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The last pic is from the flue on the roof down...can you see the creek? It's 35' bank to bank, but looks small from 200'+ feet up.
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tcassavaugh
Minister of Fire
nice...glad you got the collar fixed...i hated it when my pipe leaked a bit.....nice pics. good job.
cass
cass
I'm almost done! I am building kitchen cabinets now, bases are done, copper counter tops done, working on the doors. Well gets drilled this week, should be "in" by Oct.
Anyway, a neighbor stopped by with his son who lives in NH. The guy is in construction and when he saw the old H1 he asked how I though the heat transfer from basement to attic would work. I have done a lot of R&R on the subject and have many options but have cut no holes in the floor yet. He said he heats 2800 sq ft with a basement pellet stove, and solved his air movement problem with computer fans. He cut standard sized floor grate holes in the rooms, then mounted a computer fan under each one with a wood surround for duct work through the basement drop ceiling. He said it works like a charm, cheap easy, and no real duct work required. I thought this was a fantastic idea. I have no drop ceiling, so I could mount fans right under the grates. I did a search here and only found some limited room to room applications of the computer fans. Has anyone else tried this?
Anyway, a neighbor stopped by with his son who lives in NH. The guy is in construction and when he saw the old H1 he asked how I though the heat transfer from basement to attic would work. I have done a lot of R&R on the subject and have many options but have cut no holes in the floor yet. He said he heats 2800 sq ft with a basement pellet stove, and solved his air movement problem with computer fans. He cut standard sized floor grate holes in the rooms, then mounted a computer fan under each one with a wood surround for duct work through the basement drop ceiling. He said it works like a charm, cheap easy, and no real duct work required. I thought this was a fantastic idea. I have no drop ceiling, so I could mount fans right under the grates. I did a search here and only found some limited room to room applications of the computer fans. Has anyone else tried this?
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