new installation for old Reginald airtight stove

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Dave's wife

New Member
Nov 13, 2014
5
Guys Mills, PA
The first fire in the stove created fumes, with a liquid coming down the edge of the chimney and puddled on the floor. Wood burned slowly, but smoked out the chimney nicely. It still smells bad today with no fire and the overhead fan on. Is the 90 degree angle a problem?
 

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The first fire in the stove created fumes, with a liquid coming down the edge of the chimney and puddled on the floor. Wood burned slowly, but smoked out the chimney nicely. It still smells bad today with no fire and the overhead fan on. Is the 90 degree angle a problem?
you understand, these pictures posted are sideways. Tilt your head, and help us out, please.
 
Rotated them. Software doesn't like vertical phone pics. Hope fix is coming soon.
 
first off i see lots or clearance problems with both the stove and the pipe. Is that class a outside if so you really need a class a tee not a black elbow. if not you need class a. and your pipe joints inside are upside down
 
Nice old stove but this is not a legal or proper install for so many reasons. Indoors: The stove needs to be farther away from combustibles. The stove pipe needs to be 18" away from any wood. The thimble needs to be 12" away from any wood. And on the outside this needs to be class A chimney or masonry.
 
Nice old stove but this is not a legal or proper install for so many reasons. Indoors: The stove needs to be farther away from combustibles. The stove pipe needs to be 18" away from any wood. The thimble needs to be 12" away from any wood. And on the outside this needs to be class A chimney or masonry.

your quote underneath seems to imply that we're imbeciles...... maybe so. But we know enough to ask for help when we're stuck. We'll keep trying. Thanks.
 
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your quote underneath seems to imply that we're imbeciles...... maybe so. But we know enough to ask for help when we're stuck. We'll keep trying. Thanks.

No not saying you are imbiciles at all but your install is unsafe in many ways and we need to tell you that sorry if we offended you. Can you answer if that pipe outside is class a or just plain pipe. If it is plain pipe that is one of your problems because it will cool very quickly and create lots of creosote that will run down the pipe and out those backwards joints. But there are many unsafe conditions with your install i am sorry to say
 
We really couldn't afford the class A stovepipe, but now see that the combination of airtight stove and the cheap pipe outside was a mistake. Didn't know about the upside down joints either. So you folks have been a real help. We're thinking the best plan is to put a hole in the roof, take the pipe straight up, and not backwards either. That will take us away from the wall, but still, you need 18 inches from the roof joists? Don't they make a steel/metal flashing of some kind for the roof?
 
It will never work very well with bare pipe and it is not to code at all. Also that stove needs to be 36" form any combustibles. I understand not having the money but do you have the money to rebuild your house if it burns down and the insurance denies your claim because of that install? We are not trying to belittle you at all but it really is very unsafe
 
Class A high temperature pipe must be used as the pipe exits the room boundary, whether at the ceiling or the wall. Class A chimney pipe has 2" clearance from combustibles. The interior connector pipe can either be single wall which has 18" clearance or double-wall stove pipe which has 6" clearance. There are a lot more details, but these are the fundamentals for the flue system clearances. Please don't take offense. We are focussed on helping people burn safely. When asked if there was a problem we found many.

Download the DuraVent installation manual under the Literature tab here: DuraTech Instructions 5"-8" This provides a good general instruction on proper chimney installation.
 
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