New Jotul 500 Oslo

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yaker57

Member
Oct 17, 2011
51
Winfield Ks.
New to Site, learned a lot) Like to get Your Thoughts:) I drove 4 hrs away to buy a (New) Oslo 500, paid them Cash money. Wanted to lite the Burn in Fire outside today, looked on the back and there was the Manufacture tag Feb 2006, needless to say I was Schocked! I had Looged a Lot of Timber in 110 degrees to make the Money for this stove and had finally gotten My New Stove! Understand it has not been fired up, it has the Vermiculite Baffle and Blanket, the handle on ash and side loading door. Everything is as far as I know exactly what a 2011 stove would be, but the missrepresentation of the store, the Cash for what I thought was a 2011 stove and kicking Myself all day long for Not Looking at the back for the date has been a learning lesson for Me :) This was the Only Oslo in Matte Black, dont understand how they held it for 5 years! Have called 8 times to the Store Owner and they are evidently Not going to put Him thru! Did find the Jotul Rep for this store and said Nothing He can do but leave a message for the Owner to call Me! Rep did ask Me what I want Him to do and I said I want what I paid for a 2011 Oslo:) Said all He can do is try get Owner to call:) And wants to be kept in the loop:) I dont know what His Job really is , after while He seemed to Understand after I told Him , if You paid for 2011 and got a 2006 , You would go thru the roof:) He agreed:) You would think they would offer the 2006 Price on it instead of taking a chance to sell it wrong and create a Problem , but they evidently know as they dont want to talk about it:) Any ideas or has anybody bought Old Stove they tought was (New) ? Also what is the Reps Job if Not to force a Dealer to correct the problem? He knows the store has problems but.......Let me know Your Thoughts:) Thanks for listening:)
 
Document. Have a look at the bill of sale. Make sure it says 2011. If it does, contact the Attorney General's office in the state where the dealer does business. Take their advice.
 
I can imagine how you must be feeling yaker57. While the dealership model theoretically helps with getting safe installations, the dealership model also creates what appear to be mini-monopolies.

I went to a Morso dealership and was ready to buy a stove. I had asked the price and was told $1672 plus tax. When we got to the counter the sales person then asked about installation. After I told her I would just take the stove, she acted weird and started telling me that I would have to pay extra for shipping. First it was about $120 but she couldn't give me a definite price. She called the next day quoting $225, saying that if I could wait for other stoves to be "ordered" that I "might possibly get a reduction" in the shipping charges though she could not be sure. Well I didn't go back. The next Morso dealer tried hiking the price by $450 after telling them that I didn't want them to install it. I never went back to either.

My local Jotul dealer actually was very helpful but their prices were all $100 more, which seemed weird. They also wanted me to sign documents that went on and on about them not being responsible for any stove they do not install, etc. This seemed obvious to me since they would not be installing. Then I wondered whether signing these would give Jotul reason to deny a warranty claim should I have issues. Finally I found a great dealer 2 hours away who helped me talk through my needs and offered the pros and cons of two stoves I liked. I'm still having second thoughts about my choice, but since I could really go either way, the dealer said that I could trade up if I like provided that I haven't installed/used the stove. Super helpful, no legalese paperwork, and their prices were all posted on the wall above every single stove. Everything in the store was priced. No feeling like I'm being discriminated against with higher prices because they do not get to soak me on an install.

Now I've gotten that out of my system. At the local Jotul dealer, they offered me a used stove that had been barely used. Later I found out that, though very new looking, it was actually 5 years old, but I had to really dig and poke with different sales people to get that info. Basically, they were wanting to charge me the new price from 5 years ago which was a discount to the current new price. And it was used! Al beit lightly used but used non the less.

So, bottom line, document everything as previously posted. Contact your state government to find out if there is a consumer protection division. Wisconsin has a way to file a consumer protection complaint to The State who will investigate it and send a letter back to the complainant with their determination about the situation. This can then be used in court as evidence or perhaps by then the other party will be willing to negotiate a favorable compromise, which is really in everyone's best interest anyway.

I figure if this dealer is willing to make good on your concerns about being "duped" into purchasing a 5 year old stove (I use duped very lightly and without meaning offense) then they are worth possible future business and positive references to friends, family, neighbors, etc. A good dealer will know this and behave accordingly.

Best of luck.
 
I don't understand why dealerships can't simply be honest. Selling a 2006 model off the floor in 2011 as new and not telling the customer is a crime in my book. They most likely will tell you they haven't changed since 2006 but you will have to do the research.... they won't and most likely you will find out otherwise which will make you even more mad.

If it was me I would call them and tell them you are coming with the stove and expect them to have the cash you gave them. Let them prepare so they can't say there's a cash issue. It's possible they will offer you a good discount which might be worth looking into. Otherwise ram that stove up ........
 
My story is similar with different results. The Jotul salesperson was selling me a floor model from the prior model year. A 2007 stove in 2008. Since it was off season, May 2008, he was able to discount the stove in order to move it. Delivery was included in the price. The day the stove came I did the same thing and looked at the manufacturers stamp, it was a 2006 stove. I told the driver I wouldn't accept the stove and why. The next morning the driver from the day before and the salesman were there humping the 2007 stove up 11 steps. I got a sincere apology and I still use this company for my stove needs.
 
Well, Finally Owner of store called, after Rep told Him too! Said He didn't know it was a 2006 stove and that it didn't matter it was Brand New and Warranty and Tax Credit still good! Told Him He would feel the same if Got 2006 and thought he bought a 2011! Said he dropped the price already , which is Price Matching he does on everything, Ask him what the 2006 sold for and he hollered he wasn't giving any money back! Told him the issue was he did Not tell the year and he Hung Up on Me:) Talked to the Rep and He again Mostly wanted to Assured Me the Jotul was Pure Quality and He had called Factory and there had been No Changes since 2006, also said as of 2007 there hadn't been any price changes and probably none since 2006. Rep said is was Sad that Store Owner was a Bonehead and that wasn't anything else he , the Rep could do , would of liked to exchange stoves for Me but not able to! Also visited about the Att General and Better Business so that Other Folks would be aware of the Boneheads Store:)

So as I told Him , I have the Mostest Special New Jotul that has been waiting on Me for 5 years and Tomorrow I will do the test firing of the Oslo and then move it into the House just in time for Cold weather coming in:)

I am Excited to have the Oslo and am Praying to see it perform better than the Cat Federal Airtight Consolidated Dutchwest I have burned for the last 20 years or so:) Which I quit buying the Cat some years ago:)

Jimbo , Your Jotul Dealer was a Great Help thru all this even tho didn't get stove thru Him, wish I had of but he needed to order it, the Springfield store has the issues:)

Thanks for all replies and Bottom Line is Always look at Back of the Stove for the Year:)
 
So as I told Him , I have the Mostest Special New Jotul that has been waiting on Me for 5 years and Tomorrow I will do the test firing of the Oslo and then move it into the House just in time for Cold weather coming in:)

Think of it this way... you just rescued that stove, like rescuing a dog. Treat it good, feed it lots of dry wood, and it will make you happy and warm for a long time.
 
Thanks Blue, that made Me Smile and made My My Day and So True, it deserved to be Rescued for Sure:)
 
It's 34 degrees here in Ks this mornin :) Stove is still outside for firing! Will that have any effect on the glass door if I start breaking in fire? I should think not as this made for cold but the new firing of it is my concern? Ain't never had glass in Woodstove before:) Thanks:)
 
Also , plan Breakin Fire outside as I said and have about 3 ft pipe, figured that get me done for breakin, if didn't I have 8in pipe taller , thot would slip it over the 6in and wouldnt that allow it to draw enough? Thanks
 
yaker57 said:
Also , plan Breakin Fire outside as I said and have about 3 ft pipe, figured that get me done for breakin, if didn't I have 8in pipe taller , thot would slip it over the 6in and wouldnt that allow it to draw enough? Thanks

Just watch the temps dont get too hot on the first few fires. We did ours indoors when we purchased and only had to open the windows for a little bit, as the smell wasnt too bad. Just about everytime you reach a record temp in the stove, you'll prob get that smell in the house anyway. Heck, ours still makes a small smell the first fire we light each year. Its a great stove that likes well seasoned wood and we've never had issues. I know about a dozen people w Jotuls (mostly oslos and castines) and all love them. Only heard a few people complain and that was on this forum.
 
The stove may be balky with just 3ft of pipe on it. Also, remember it will take a few smaller fires, each one larger, to break in the stove. And it may be difficult to get the stove up to 500F with just a 3 ft section of pipe. If the stove is enameled, it won't smoke much. If this is the case I'd break it in indoors. Heck I would probably do that with a painted one too when it gets cold. Just put a fan exhausting out of the nearest window.
 
Finally got the Oslo on the Hearth and Pipe install to the Thimble @ 5:30, started First Fire , small like book says, it wouldn’t burn, needed more air, opened ash door and that lit er up, added more wood and shut ash door, it took 30 mins to get to 200, but when she did it held that for the Hr! Didn’t think it would Ever cool off, now that it hit 200, even with the air shutdown it took an Hr to cool down:) I was Impressed, the Fire was Sweet to see as Never had Glass before:) The Start the 300 fire and it went much quicker , it was easy to see how the air was getting its job done:) Now @ 9:00 I will again allow the cool down and probably use a fan to help as it takes Forever! Awesome Secondary Fires that was the Sweetest I have Ever seen a Fire do and have Burned for 25yrs:)
 
Congratulations. Sounds like you are having some well deserved fun.
 
That stove will burn extra warm for you. It knows what you put up with to adopt it.

Blue Vomit said:
So as I told Him , I have the Mostest Special New Jotul that has been waiting on Me for 5 years and Tomorrow I will do the test firing of the Oslo and then move it into the House just in time for Cold weather coming in:)

Think of it this way... you just rescued that stove, like rescuing a dog. Treat it good, feed it lots of dry wood, and it will make you happy and warm for a long time.
 
Wow , I am Impressed, after Burning the VC forever, I Now know I was wasting effort on it! I finished last burn to 400 about 1am last nite. Let it cool down and restart and finally shut air @ 3am, it was pushin 550! Figured I wake up cold and restoke it, well @ 29 degrees, it kept all the house toasty, and house North side uninsulated! This is a Major change for this ole house, I used stand rite next to VC to get warm, this we are 6ft away @ 400 degrees and Amazed:) It is Very Needy for Air, even if I add 6in log on top of hot coals , it will need extra air, or I need to add a lot of kindling to allow the ignition of the larger pieces! It has a learning curve for Me on that part:) I Love the Oslo, but would like the air induction to be more just for initial fires, and I understand too much air warps things, but even @ that I will sell Folks on the Oslo It will burn 24/7 and if the -18 degrees comes back this winter like last year, Lord willin we will be more that ready for it:) Also had 1/4 ashs in the pan and that is Sweet as reburn is taking care of a lot of them:) If You are in Mo. Call Jeff Shafferkoetter at MIS Fireplace LLC in Ozark Mo. I will deal with no one but Him on this stove and He will do all He can to Please You:) 417-840-1789 is His Number and tell Him Darell told Ya about Him:) Thanks for All the Help, this site is Informative:)
 
I sold many a new stove that was a couple years old. The issue is not the age. The only real issues would be whether the model changed.

Stove makers do not have "model years" like car makers do. They often go 5 years or more (sometimes MUCH more) without a single change - not even a screw or a bolt!

In any of these cases, I see nothing wrong with a customer accepting an "old" stove - because it isn't old. Nor should they receive the old price on it, unless that is the dealers price anyway.

Floor models are different as are prior models. That is, if anything has changed...then, yes, the customer must be informed. If the stove was displayed or used or taken out of the box, the customer should know (except in very rare cases).....

In my 20+ years of selling stoves, I don't think I ever had a customer check the mfg date.

This differs, of course, from boats - cars and many other products which may be refreshed or updated in some ways yearly and whose resale value often depends on the model year. When it comes to stoves, I have not found that to be the case.

Just another opinion, of course!
 
Thanks Craig for Your Insight :) I just felt like a Fool for Not looking for the date, that is just me , and if I ever did resell, would be pretty hard to convince a person that just got stove New after sitting 5 yrs:) But I'll Never sell it:) I needed His Honesty when I visited with Him about knowing the Year , I would think You would know that stove hasn't moved all those years, but He wasn't going to be Honest about any of it and knew to sell to out of state person and never bring it back, IMO:) His History I found out is Not Good that is why the Ozark Store is doing so well:) But as I stated , Lord saved this Stove just for Us, She will be Special in Every way, as We are Schocked by the Warmth it is giving Us:) I Appreciate all the Guys here insite as to "You Rescued it" Makes Wife and I Laugh and Thank You Craig for the Forum, it is Incredible Insite just for My Little bit of it:)

Everyone coming over are Very Impressed with the Beauty and Heat of the Oslo:) I do know that they have made the air induction small IMO! It forces you to open one of the doors to get intial air to get fire going! Can anyone point Me/Us to a site that shows Diagram of the Oslo Air Path? I know comes from bottom @ the Back and goes up, to the tubing? Also like to understand more of how the stoves is supposed to work? Also how the Handle to open the air , is there a diagram of how that looks and where it goes into the stove as trying to figure how it works? I am burning 24/7 and have for 30yrs on other stoves but have never had a baffle type stove:) I do Appreciate the wooden handles on the doors as had metal on other stoves before:) Thanks for the Help:)
 
It's not untypical on this stove to leave the loading door ajar about 1/2" for a few minutes when starting up a fire. We had to do the same on the F400. Just don't use the ash pan door for this. That can damage the stove. Good dry kindling will minimize this open door time. And starting with a SuperCedar will eliminate it. Once you are burning 24/7 this becomes a moot point.

The air comes in down the glass as an air wash. It also feeds directly a bit in front of the doghouse if I remember correctly. Next time you start a fire, try this. Put a pair of ~12-14", 2"x2" sticks, 4"" apart in the center of the stove with their sides parallel to the sides of the stove. (At right angles to the door glass, aka North/South orientation). Put a couple balls of newspaper in between them. Now build up a criss-cross stack of kindling, maybe 2 more sticks high. Gently rest a couple of small splits on the pile, parallel to the glass. Take a full sheet of newspaper, roll it into a tube widthwise, then tie that into a knot. Make a few of these bowties and place on top of the kindling stack between the two small splits. Open the air control all the way open. Ignite the bowties and leave the door ajar about 1/2". After about 5 minutes, when the wood is burning well on its own, try closing the door.

(If this was with SuperCedars I would break it into quarters. And place a couple quarter pieces between the bottom 2 pieces of wood, one close to the front of the stove and one in the middle. Then stack up and ignite the front super cedar.)

The newspaper method is referred to as top down lighting. By putting those two bottom sticks in place you allow air to get directly under the wood in the center of the stove. This is sometimes referred to as the tunnel of love. Your wife and friends will probably get a good chuckle over that one too.

Check out the video on Efficient Wood Stove Operation at the bottom of this page for more firestarting tips:
http://www.woodheat.org/wood-heat-videos.html

SuperCedar offer to Hearth.com members:
https://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/forums/viewthread/77926/
 
Thanks BeGreen for the Info and web sites, gotta say I been litin fires forever and never would of thot to build one upside down:)
 
Ahhh, I just wanted to let ya know, I PERSONALLY went over to my stove, crawled down onto the brick with a flashlight, looked through an opening in the heatshield, with a flashlight in hand, and can report to you that you have the best dang heatin' stove available on the market!

Mine was manufactured May, 2006 :)
 
One more thing, I suggest you don't make any changes/modifications to that Oslo.

I build my fires from cold start like this. Simple rolled up newspaper, lots of it, first. Then looose, dry, kindling (criss crossed), then some bigger stuff in there, loose. Two rolled pieces of newspaper on top.

Light the top stuff (helps get draft movin), then the bottom paper right away. Leave side door open a crack (mine rests on door latch), hang out and surf the web til you hear it start to rumble a bit, haha, then close the side door with the air control open the whole way.

The key for mine is LOOSE, DRY, KINDLING, and wood for that first start up fire.

Once she's goin' there ain't no problem.

I've said the Oslo ain't no dragster, no quick fires with her. She's more like a locomotive, takes a spell to get her up to speed but once she's goin' she'll roll like thunder. That's why it's important NOT to do any modifications to the air system until you get to understand how the stove operates.
 
Thanks ansehnlich1, No mods here, let the Wife read the instructions and now I have to sneak the ash door open for quick starting puff of air as She read the Warning:) Lol, I think You have the Correct Perspective about No Dragster:) LOl....Now What is the easiest way to Clean the Glass?
 
Wet paper towel or newspaper...okay more like damp. Dip into some ashes annnnd wipe. Some scrubing for the really bad stuff but you dont have to go nuts. Sounds crazy but the ash acts as a mild abrasive.
Its a ceramic glass, no razor blades.
In case you dont know dont do this on hot glass.
 
my glass gets hazy, no matter what I do. When the serious burning gets going I don't worry too much about it. I'll use a sponge, some water, and some ash when the stove is cool but only every once in a while.
 
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