Hi everyone new guy here, well I'm new to stoves but have buddies that burn wood for heat every year. I just purchased a Vc Resolute pre EPA stove looks good etc... I am a Hvac tech and plan to install a liner as I get them at good prices but for now I popped the smoke pipe into my fireplace, to just see how it burns. As I have been lurking here for awhile I realize it is not ideal the way I am vented but I wanted to try the stove. I was burning it yesterday and couldnt get the horizontal burn to work so I am going to try to use my soot vac to clear out the chamber behind the firebacks. I got the griddle to 600 * smoke pipe to 350* and about two inches of coals and tried the horizontal burn but it snuffs the fire out, I have a combustion analyzer that does wood so I wanna try that at some point . Well hello everyone hope to learn lots from you folks.
New member with balky Resolute
- Thread starter cdaryl
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Greetings. This could just be weak draft due to the short pipe + horiz. run to get it into the chimney. If so, a proper 6" stainless liner will make a big difference and improvement.
Before lining the chimney be sure to have it completely cleaned and inspected for any cracks in the clay tiles. If there are cracks or mortar missing between tiles, then insulate the liner.
Before lining the chimney be sure to have it completely cleaned and inspected for any cracks in the clay tiles. If there are cracks or mortar missing between tiles, then insulate the liner.
remkel
Minister of Fire
May want to move that thermometer onto the cast. Griddle temps will rise much faster than the cast.
Remkel, the temps were taken with my fluke infrared thermometer, being new to this where would I take the temp on the cast? How hot would you guys run this stove flue temp and cast temp? Begreen the run is extremely short 6 inch elbow and 1 foot piece up into flue so I wonder of that is the problem? I am getting the liner in a week or two and the chimney seems fine for cracks in the tile etc... I have some knowledge of that possibly just enough to be dangerous lol. The stove I was told was recently refurbished which I kinda doubt, it may have been recently painted but I found ash in it. I am cleaning it tonight of ash that is. I have started scrounging wood which is easy in ct right now after our Oct snow storm. I have wood that needs splitting, thank god my buddy dropped off his splitter tonight!
Yes, the short stub up the flue is not adequate, especially if there's no damper sealing plate. With a good liner I think you will have a completely different acting stove and a safer chimney.
remkel
Minister of Fire
Usually the right rear corner on the stove top is the hottest...but check all four corners. the IR will be a great tool for you. Compare the griddle temps with the cast temps and I think you will see a huge difference.
I have not run one of the resolutes, but a quick search of the owners manual would be able to tell you the recommended temps. I know there are others here that are operating them.
I have not run one of the resolutes, but a quick search of the owners manual would be able to tell you the recommended temps. I know there are others here that are operating them.
webbie
Seasoned Moderator
cdaryl said:
Yeah, without a liner you are not gonna be able to get that horizontal burn going. You need to have a very decent draft through the stove, which you are not going to get with with your install.
Ok so it looks like I have to speed up the liner install to be able to utilize the horizontal burn and extra heat fom the resolute. And check the temps to be in between the factory specified temps. I did find the manual on this site there is such a wealth of info on this site thanks everyone.
A proper liner will improve the draft greatly. The first year for my Resolute - 32 years ago - I just used one, 3' length of snap-together stove pipe. Though I did install a plate where the fireplace's damper used to be, the smoke just dumped out into a 9x24" tile-lined flue. Draft was OK, but creosote build-up where the smoke exited the pipe was huge. Duh.... The flue gasses need to be kept hot and moving, lest they condense.
A year ago, I purchased a single coil of stainless steel stove pipe. It was a whole lot easier to work with than sectional stove pipe. Check the web for prices: it wasn't nearly as pricey as I expected. (I think I used chimneylinerpro.com.)
Also make sure that the secondary air passage is free of ashes, debris, mouse nests or whatever.
Cheers
A year ago, I purchased a single coil of stainless steel stove pipe. It was a whole lot easier to work with than sectional stove pipe. Check the web for prices: it wasn't nearly as pricey as I expected. (I think I used chimneylinerpro.com.)
Also make sure that the secondary air passage is free of ashes, debris, mouse nests or whatever.
Cheers
Unfortunately, it's not possible to completely clean the smoke chamber behind the fireback w/o removing the "guts" of the stove. I'm rebuilding one right now for a guy, and it's crazy what can build up in there!! Still, the liner should make a GIANORMOUS difference.
$365.00 for a total refurb. here in the shop. Just to have the guts out of it , clean up & regasket $169.00. Prices include all paint/cement/gaskets/hardware, not iron parts or handles&such;.
Sound good? Lemme know. You've got a nice old stove there
Sound good? Lemme know. You've got a nice old stove there
> Also make sure that the secondary air passage is free of ashes, debris, mouse nests or whatever.Defiant it would be something I would want to do this spring as I'm now going to be doing the liner, and if I still have problems something i would like to have you do just so I know that it's been done.
Just installed a 25ft liner in my fireplace for the resolute whoa what a difference in just lighting the fire.... Such a easy install no rope to pull it down just fed it down trimmed the tee snoot and seal the top perfect....
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