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New Papa Bear owner with questions

Post in 'Fisher Stove Information, Parts, History and More' started by fourwheels0, Aug 10, 2013.

  1. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    2013-08-10 19.39.31.jpg
    i just picked up a papa bear stove in great shape.
    i see on the 1977 ad they list it as 410 lbs is that the true weight?.
    it sure feels a lot heavier.
    i measured so i can put a baffle in it and get 14 1/2 inches wide but how long (or deep) should it be?
    i think i read 8 inch's? is that about right?.
    thanks mike. 2013-08-10 19.39.20.jpg View attachment 108194 View attachment 108194

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  2. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

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    I have a '79 ad that states 486 lbs. Maybe it's normal for a Papa Bear to put on 70 pounds in two years. :)
    Or maybe that was without the upper row of brick? The weight can fluctuate due to some having an upper course of brick.

    They are heavy even on wheels. It's not your imagination.
    8 inches is fine, the angle of tilt makes a big difference on how far it projects from the back wall.
    fourwheels0 likes this.
  3. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    coaly thanks.
    mine is missing 1 of the upper bricks. the "clips" are there just the brick is missing.
    so it looks like i'll need 3 bricks and have the baffle made.
    now i just need 3 more people to help me get it out of the truck and in the house lol
  4. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    coaly do you see any issues putting my papa in this spot (see pic).
    we've had a free standing wood stove there for years but i am just wondering.
    the entire firebox is steel with firebrick on the bottom (it was a fireplace at one time.)
    the old wood stove and and stainless tube was installed before we moved in 12yrs ago.
    SAM_0530.JPG
  5. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    ok there is a sticker on the bottom of mine that says.
    made by hesston corporation
    hesston kansas
    serial # fs01-30774
  6. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

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    Looks like a UL stove board. As long as it has the 18 inches required floor protection all the way around. Many cut the back legs and set it on the hearth as long as it's solid masonry.
    http://hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/wood_stove_clearances_installing_it_safely
    Your stove was actually designed to sit lengthwise across the hearth so it didn't take up room in the house. They also had a side vent in that circumstance. (the original first airtight steel plate stove invented was the Papa in that exact configuration for your type installation)

    Papa Bear side vent from Boise Idaho.jpg
  7. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    ok great thanks.
  8. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    well got the baffle in. i had to get a piece 3/8 x 9 as they didn't have any 5/16 stuff.
    all i need now is to get somebody here to help me hook it up and make sure the pipes are sealed.
    the pipe in the chimney needs to be cut shorter and i can't cut it. SAM_0546.JPG
  9. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    the bricks on the hearth are solid and 3 1/2 inch's thick. i don't know what's under them. is there anyway to find out? (drill a hole maybe?) or not a good idea.
    or do you think the 3 1/2 inch brick is enough?.
    should i cut the back legs flush with the bottom of the stove?.
    from preliminary measurements it looks like if i cut the back legs flush with the bottom then everything will line up nicely and i won't have to cut the pipe going up the chimney.
  10. coaly

    coaly Fisher Moderator Staff Member

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    You need to know if the hearth extension is constructed with combustible materials. Brick and stone coverings actually transmit heat to the combustible beneath. An airspace under the stove is still a concern to protect the stove when the hearth extension (bricks in front) is noncombustible, as when on a cement floor on bare earth.

    The r value floor protector requirement was calculated with the original legs as tested.

    The specification used when the stove was built was "3/8 asbestos millboard or equivalent" plus a layer of brick. This was with the original legs with 6 inch airspace that still gets quite warm directly in the center under the stove. Cutting them down increases the required r value drastically.
    You can read up on the r value and k-factor values (conductivity) that gets interesting, but you need to know the r value required to use this information.
    http://www.hearth.com/econtent/index.php/articles/hearth_design

    Notice the r value of 1 inch airspace is 1.43 and the solid brick on edge is 0.8. An airspace is always required to prevent warping of the sheet steel. The bottom of an Insert has an airspace under and around the firebox, so the firebox is not directly on the hearth.
  11. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    coaly the hearth is all brick and concrete but we decided to not put it on the hearth but in front of it.
    that way we have lots of clearance all the way around. plus i didn't like the idea of cutting the legs.
    here's where it will sit. now to get it piped.
    oh and yes that is a UL fire plate and the rug on top is fire rated too.
    SAM_0547.JPG SAM_0548.JPG
  12. WeldrDave

    WeldrDave Feeling the Heat

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    Very nice stove Mike, ! Good luck and enjoy!;)
  13. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    I'm a bit uneasy with this installation over carpet. That stove will put out a lot of heat. What material is the stove itself sitting on?
  14. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    the floor is concrete.
  15. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    ok it's all hooked up and seems to be working great.
    i have 1 question?. what should be the maximum flue temp (flue coming out of the stove before going up).
    with just a couple small fires to check everything and cure the flue cement it's right around 350-400.
    what temp should i try to keep it at or at least not go above.
    thanks.[​IMG]
    Last edited: Oct 9, 2013
  16. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    That is a fine temp. Don't go above 900F if possible and try to cruise with the flue temp lower than the stove top. A flue damper can help achieve this on an old stove.
  17. 930dreamer

    930dreamer Member

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    You could save some floor space by placing the stove on the hearth and pushing into the opening. No leg cutting necessary just level up the front legs to the hearth height. Just my .02.
  18. fourwheels0

    fourwheels0 New Member

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    sorry it won't fit in the opening i already tried that. the way it is is the best setup with my situation.

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