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Post in 'Classic Wood Stove Forums (prior to approx. 1993)' started by Heavy Metal, Apr 17, 2012.

  1. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Yes, ceramic glass is expensive. They usually have a better than average price.
    Defiant likes this.

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  2. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    Well, not much new to report. I did take the advice and got my self some sheets of sandpaper and went over the stove several times with my orbital sander. I also bought a large container of Naval Jelly and am getting ready to treat every inch of the stove to kill the rust and get it ready for paint. Sorry I've been away so long. Went on vaca in March and then have been super busy with kids and everything else for Spring.
  3. TX-L

    TX-L Burning Hunk

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    Defiant likes this.
  4. wazzu

    wazzu Member

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    I really like those older airtight stoves. You don't have to battle trying to fit wood in them. They are also more heavy duty in my opinion.
  5. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    I wanted to take a closer look at the inside of the stove over the weekend. I took some pictures and notices a couple interesting things I wanted to get everybody's thoughts on.

    The first thing that I noticed that I thought was particularly interesting is the vent system. The vents on the upper front side of the stove don't allow air directly in the fire box (like a door vents). But there is a box you can see in the picture inside with a hole half way down. This is on both sides of the stove.
    [​IMG][​IMG]

    I finally measured the flue and it's 7 inches. But....there's an old baffle in a bag inside the stove, it says 8" but it fits in the 7" pipe? So is 7" fairly standard? Will I be able to find pipe at my local stores or will I be hunting online?
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    Here is a picture of the entire firebox.
    [​IMG]
  6. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    Looks like a simple secondary air port introducing air at the front of the baffle. This would be to introduce air right at the flame turn around point. I'd be tempted to run a manifold off that hole to feed a drilled tube or two under the baffle for a more complete secondary burn.
  7. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    So leave one side as is, and take the other side and go off that hole for a secondary burn system?
  8. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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  9. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    This stove was built in 1979. Do you think it's steel or cast iron? I'm not sure how to tell.
  10. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    All steel.
  11. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    I just found a buyer and got some pricing for several walnut and white oak trees. Should have enough money next month to start buying pipe and hearth materials!
  12. BrotherBart

    BrotherBart Hearth.com LLC Mid-Atlantic Division Staff Member

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    I was almost temped a couple of days ago. A pristine looking Grizzly cat insert showed up on craigslist for $200.
  13. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    From what i've read, the inserts were their best stoves.....or most popular.
  14. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    My trees brought almost exactly $1000!!! So I'm ready to begin!
  15. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    So I called 4 local glass shops today....$100 a sq ft! So this price you got here...is HALF of what I've been able to find. I'll be going to onedayglass for sure. Thank you sir.
  16. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    Just ordered my glass from Onedayglass.com. Can't wait!

    The hearth is built for a corner. I used 2x12's, so the stove will be a foot off the floor. I used my existing prefabbed corner hearth on the top and extended the hearth out about a foot all the way around. We special ordered a nice looking porcilin tile and we have that. So I will rent a tile saw Saturday and lay the small amount of tile.

    The stove is painted and cured (outside!!). My boys helped me bring it in Saturday and put it on the hearth. Wanted it on there before I do the tile...didn't wanna risk breaking them after the fact.

    So...what's left?
    • Apply tile this weekend
    • Doors/glass
    • dampers
    • Chimney fab. and install
    I'm using 8" as that's the stove flue. I picked up a couple pieces on sale at menards of the double-wall for the attic/outside. Saved $50. Now I just need to buy some single wall, adapter and a the attic thimble.

    How do you guys feel about heat reclaimers? Someone at work is telling me how much safer they are...that's not been my impression around here. But I'm certainly all ears.
  17. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    LOL. Safer than what, an open fire on the living room floor? A stack robber is going to cool down the flue gases. That can equate to creosote buildup. And the fans on these units are noisy. Is that what you want?
  18. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    Hell no. I'm doing all this to replace a pellet stove. If I have to listen to fans ever again, I'll go batty. That's exactly what I remember hearing around here about reclaimers.
  19. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    I need help on what to do with the chimney. I'm going right up through the ceiling and out the roof (single story home). I'm going to have to jog the pipe with some angled elbow to get around a rafter in the ceiling. I want to buy my single wall pipe local at Menards. They have quite a bit. But I don't understand how they connect together...to the stove. I bought two pieces of 3' double wall for outside a month ago as it was on sale and I saved $80. But now I need the attick thimble that the double wall goes into, the adapter that goes from the single wall to that....

    Any help would be appreciated. Here's an illustration of what I'm looking at.
    [​IMG]
  20. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    Well, my hearth is complete, wood stove is installed with chimney, glass is in the doors, wall shield is almost done and it's awesome! We used 24x24 decorative tins on the walls and it looks fantastic.

    We've had a couple fires in it and wow! I'm blown away at the heat and the length of burn overnight on a stove that is nowhere near airtight (which I'll be fixing). I've got serious draft which was my biggest fear. But I can literally feel air going past my face when I open the damper and then open the doors. I'm also surprised at the burn efficiency of this old stove. I do not have white smoke billowing out my chimney. There's smoke, but it's way less than what I thought.

    My first time firing it up, before going to bed at around 10pm, I threw a few small pieces of seasoned elm into it (nowhere near stoked or full), shut it down and the next morning had a big bed of large coals, threw a few small pieces on, opened it up and had fire going quickly. I couldn't be happier. I'll post some pictures this weekend.
  21. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    Here it is all finished! And one of me and my youngest cutting tile for the hearth.
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
  22. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    That finished up nicely. Looks like the pooch approves too.:)
  23. Heavy Metal

    Heavy Metal Member

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    Does she count as "a combustable?" If so I will have to move her outside of the 36" zone! Thanks man, and thanks for advice on the glass! Really glad we didn't go with metal plates.
  24. begreen

    begreen Mooderator Staff Member

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    She looks too mellow to be combustible. You've got a cute helper in the last shot, but where's her ear protectors dad?
  25. tzfbird

    tzfbird New Member

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    Sorry to bring this older topic back up. I got a Derco Grizzly installed in a house I bought a few years back. The years are pretty close as far as the build date of the house. I have a Model: T which has a blower and box in place of your baffel plate. The doors have a bit of decoration to them in the corners besides the screens and glass.
    I'm finally starting to read into running the stove correctly instead of everything wide open as I've done in the past.
    The main reason I joined and posted is about the vent holes. I have venting along the base in the front. There is a cutout at the base of each vented side as well as a plate with holes that goes across the bottom just inside the doors. It's hard to tell in your pictures if there are openings at the bottom or not. Just wanted to throw that out there.
    Let me know when you get your stove figured out so I'll have some idea of how to run mine correctly.

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